Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery
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 > 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/25/20 11:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What model is the refer?


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Dutch_12078

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Posted: 09/25/20 11:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The common Magnetek converters from that era used the battery as part of the filter system to regulate the 12-volt output. Without the battery the voltage typically runs too high and may cook some fuses. Even a cheap lawn tractor battery will work well enough to operate the fridge.


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time2roll

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Posted: 09/25/20 11:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What is the voltage getting to the fridge control board?
Does the light in the fridge work?
Is this an auto ignition fridge or do you light the pilot manually?


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dedmiston

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Posted: 09/25/20 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lwiddis wrote:

Solar is the easy way to keep a battery charged.


He's on shore power, which is even easier.


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pianotuna

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Posted: 09/25/20 12:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dedmiston wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:

Solar is the easy way to keep a battery charged.


He's on shore power, which is even easier.


Shore power is more expensive if you are camping.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13

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Posted: 09/25/20 12:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/wi........converter-from-12-volt-panel-101990.html

Says what the 1985 converter is/was. In a video that came up (googling) it showed the converter in an older Airstream. That converter looked a lot like the OEM one that was in our 1981 truck camper. It was a real beast, made in Winnipeg to a British design--forget the brand name for it.

It did supply 12v when plugged into 120v. It had a battery charger section too. It made loud clunks when it switched. It was very big and heavy. Got rid of that and used a modern converter instead.

bestconverter has an article about Airstream converters. Also something on how to keep the OEM power- on indicator light working if you do swap out the old converter.

An old thread about it--it's a Magnetek 730-2

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/13748154/print/true.cfm

* This post was edited 09/25/20 12:54pm by BFL13 *


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pauldub

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Posted: 09/25/20 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What model is the fridge??? My '81 travel trailer had a fridge that did NOT need 12V to operate.

dougrainer

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Posted: 09/25/20 01:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

vintage 1985 is just when Dometic came out with the AES model refers. AES stands for Auto Energy Select. They had a an ON /OFF switch with an indicator light. MANUAL Dometic Models, you had to HOLD the Pilot button and then continually push a Manual Piezo lighter button. If the OP has just an ON OFF switch, then he has an AES and requires a 12 volt source to operate. If he has to push in a button and then continually push the LIGHTER button, he does not need a 12 volt source. AS always, MODEL is required to correctly answer his question. Doug

MEXICOWANDERER

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Posted: 09/25/20 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the unit has any pilot control lights outside, then you need 12 volts for it to run.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/25/20 02:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp........odel-RM2820-Installation-User-Manual.pdf

Seems a 1985 airstream will have a Dometic 2820 two way as OEM. (some googling to find that)

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