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 > 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

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MrWizard

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Posted: 09/25/20 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RLS7201 wrote:

1985 is probably stand alone propane, just like a home water heater. No 12 volt required.

Richard


Your thinking 1970's and earlier
By 1985 everything had electric ignition and 12vdc control boards


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jdc1

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Posted: 09/25/20 03:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The battery does not need to be a good battery. It can be as dead as a door nail. But one has to be in place for the converter to operate properly.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 09/25/20 03:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Though the fridge COOLS with eithe 120vac or Propane
It uses 12VDC to control operations.

You get that from either the battery or a "Converter" Sounds like the converter is toast as well as the battery missing.

You can use a small 12 volt power supply (Sold to radio operators) at least 10 amp but if your lights and roof fan do not work the fridge and most likely the water and even the air conditioners (in most cases) will not either. Nor the Furnace. all use 12 volt for control.


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BFL13

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Posted: 09/25/20 04:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why does it need 12v input from a battery to operate?

http://web.archive.org/web/2020022808075........018/09/Triad-Utrad-TU-models-Generic.pdf

Edit--found this for the 900 (and 700 I think)

Q. What happens when the battery is removed?
A. When the battery is removed from the vehicle, you will experience dim lights and possibly a humming
noise coming from your radio. Parallax Power Components L.L.C. does not recommend operation without
a battery connected to the system. If connected to 120 VAC at all times. Parallax Power Components
L.L.C.’s model SB100 simulated battery may be installed in place of the vehicle battery

* This post was edited 09/25/20 04:36pm by BFL13 *


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BFL13

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Posted: 09/25/20 04:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So get one of these instead of a battery and another charger, and disconnect the Triad's red wire from the fuse panel and the white wire from ground. Note this converter cost is about the same as a battery's and no shipping cost it says.

Now run a wire from the positive terminal of this converter to the fuse panel to where the Triad's went, and a wire from its negative terminal to that ground connection the Triad used. #8 wire would be ok.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/pro........-amp-12-volt-power-supply-with-led-light

Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 09/26/20 10:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why reinvent the wheel.....just put a cheap 12V battery in and be done with it

Simple.........


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BFL13

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Posted: 09/26/20 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Why reinvent the wheel.....just put a cheap 12V battery in and be done with it

Simple.........


He does not need a battery while on shore power,and if he had one, it would need recharging/maintaining, and he has that old converter that is likely to do a poor job of that if it even works now.

For the cost of a new battery, he can have that new converter I linked and have no converter issues and no battery to worry about either.

RLS7201

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Posted: 09/26/20 11:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MrWizard wrote:

RLS7201 wrote:

1985 is probably stand alone propane, just like a home water heater. No 12 volt required.

Richard


Your thinking 1970's and earlier
By 1985 everything had electric ignition and 12vdc control boards


NO! I was thinking the 80s.
As per Doug's post.

vintage 1985 is just when Dometic came out with the AES model refers. AES stands for Auto Energy Select. They had a an ON /OFF switch with an indicator light. MANUAL Dometic Models, you had to HOLD the Pilot button and then continually push a Manual Piezo lighter button. If the OP has just an ON OFF switch, then he has an AES and requires a 12 volt source to operate. If he has to push in a button and then continually push the LIGHTER button, he does not need a 12 volt source. AS always, MODEL is required to correctly answer his question. Doug

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BFL13

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Posted: 09/26/20 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1985 Airsteam TTs had a RM 1303 3-way fridge as standard

https://www.airstream.com/owners/document-archive/product/tt/year/1985/

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm1303.pdf

EDIT--using that link above, I went back as far as 1971 and they had "gas/electric combination" fridges as standard. Don't know the model for the fridge.

EDIT--the 1982s still say gas/electric combo, the 1983 says RM100.

seems to be a 3-way that uses 12v

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm100parts.pdf

Ref here to a 1976 RM100 in an Airstream

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f425/19........o-cooling-l-kie-what-i-found-106531.html

So that is 1976 for a "gas/electric combo" that was an RM 100 that does need 12v. Still don't have when that "modern" type of fridge started being made for Rvs

* This post was last edited 09/26/20 03:40pm by BFL13 *   View edit history

wa8yxm

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Posted: 09/26/20 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are converters and converters on an older model he might have a Magnetek and those will NOT operate the Fridge without a battery. or a Battery Simulator.. And yes I know why but I'd rather not type it out just now.

Newer well filtered converters like my Progressive Dynamics WILL but the old Magnatek and ones like it will not.

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