cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Undercarriage Storage

SoManyRoads13
Explorer
Explorer
Hey All,

Quick question:
I have a 1990 KIT Road Ranger Espre that I have been updating. I am wondering if y'all think it's advisable to attach a ceiling storage rack that one would find in someone's garage underneath my trailer. There's a solid amount of ground clearance and the storage rack that I'm looking at only has only 12" of drop. I'm more concerned with the lag screws going into the underbelly of the trailer and whether the underside would be able to support the 80lbs rack and whatever I throw onto of it. The undercarriage is covered in a weather resistant plastic and I believe that there is plywood above that.

I'm interested to see the replies here.

Thanks.
12 REPLIES 12

msmith1_wa
Explorer
Explorer
afidel wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
TenOC wrote:
gbopp wrote:

Make sure it's fastened securely to the frame.
It sounds like a good idea if it's done right.


I would use real bolts and nylock nuts with holes drilled in the flange of the I-beam. If you have a channel beam place a metal strap (home made U bolt) over the channel.

I have lost a stinky hose holder and hose when self-taping screws came out on a bumpy road.


If you drill into a I-beam, do not drill the flange.


What nonsense is this? A few holes isn't going to weaken an I beam, especially once filled with a bolt. Connecting through the flange is a standard part of steel beam construction.


With all the holes the manufacturers put in the flange a couple more won't hurt.
2003 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 8.1l
2016 Evergreen Amped 28FS

afidel
Explorer II
Explorer II
JRscooby wrote:
TenOC wrote:
gbopp wrote:

Make sure it's fastened securely to the frame.
It sounds like a good idea if it's done right.


I would use real bolts and nylock nuts with holes drilled in the flange of the I-beam. If you have a channel beam place a metal strap (home made U bolt) over the channel.

I have lost a stinky hose holder and hose when self-taping screws came out on a bumpy road.


If you drill into a I-beam, do not drill the flange.


What nonsense is this? A few holes isn't going to weaken an I beam, especially once filled with a bolt. Connecting through the flange is a standard part of steel beam construction.
2019 Dutchman Kodiak 293RLSL
2015 GMC 1500 Sierra 4x4 5.3 3.42 full bed
Equalizer 10k WDH

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
TenOC wrote:
gbopp wrote:

Make sure it's fastened securely to the frame.
It sounds like a good idea if it's done right.


I would use real bolts and nylock nuts with holes drilled in the flange of the I-beam. If you have a channel beam place a metal strap (home made U bolt) over the channel.

I have lost a stinky hose holder and hose when self-taping screws came out on a bumpy road.


If you drill into a I-beam, do not drill the flange.

slider45
Nomad
Nomad
BarneyS wrote:
Have you seen these Lippert underchassis storage systems?

Might be worth a look instead of re-inventing the wheel. :W
Barney


That one is a great option! Nice

harmonmonic
Explorer
Explorer
BarneyS wrote:
Have you seen these ***Link Removed***

Might be worth a look instead of re-inventing the wheel. :W
Barney


Thanks, nice store. Exactly what i need

SoManyRoads13
Explorer
Explorer
I have. I could get much more storage for less than half the cost.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Have you seen these Lippert underchassis storage systems?

Might be worth a look instead of re-inventing the wheel. :W
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

SoManyRoads13
Explorer
Explorer
Right. Fastening to the frame sounds much better. I'll have to take some measurements to make sure that the proportions/dimensions work. Thanks for the hardware recommendations, TenOC.
profdan139: They are not closed shelves. I'm still figuring that out, maybe some thick vinyl? I would keep my little giant ladder down there and Rubbermaid bins of whatever else. I would use rachet staps for the bins and u bolt bike locks to secure the ladder in place.

TenOC
Nomad
Nomad
gbopp wrote:

Make sure it's fastened securely to the frame.
It sounds like a good idea if it's done right.


I would use real bolts and nylock nuts with holes drilled in the flange of the I-beam. If you have a channel beam place a metal strap (home made U bolt) over the channel.

I have lost a stinky hose holder and hose when self-taping screws came out on a bumpy road.
Please give me enough troubles, uncertainty, problems, obstacles and STRESS so that I do not become arrogant, proud, and smug in my own abilities, and enough blessings and good times that I realize that someone else is in charge of my life.

Travel Photos

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
The 80 lb. rack and whatever will greatly increase in weight when you go bouncing down the road.
Make sure it's fastened securely to the frame.
It sounds like a good idea if it's done right.

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Instead of lag screws, maybe use self tapping screws that go into the metal chassis, rather than into the plywood underbelly?

Are these closed shelves? What are you planning to put on the shelves, and how are you going to keep the stuff clean, dry, and in place?

This sounds like a worthwhile project -- please post photos when it's done!
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Attached to the frame? Why not?