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 > Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

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Rocket9k

Akron

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Posted: 08/29/20 02:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now that I have replaced the plugged radiator it will run pretty cool between 190-210. The only time I can get it higher than that is if I'm in 3rd gear climbing an incline or out of overdrive going down the highway at 65-70. I have an electric fan mounted on the front of my condenser which helps slightly. It pretty much just keeps A/C temps down.

Richard, thanks for the info. The Murray 2799 is a reboxed Hayden 2799, which I have already tried. It ran nearly constantly and the thermostat was in a tug of war with it trying to keep the engine temp up. I'm assuming yours does not operate this way? Also, before your OEM one failed, when did it kick on and off, at what temp scale, and how did it behave when it did fail?

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 08/29/20 07:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rocket9k wrote:

Now that I have replaced the plugged radiator it will run pretty cool between 190-210. The only time I can get it higher than that is if I'm in 3rd gear climbing an incline or out of overdrive going down the highway at 65-70. I have an electric fan mounted on the front of my condenser which helps slightly. It pretty much just keeps A/C temps down.

Richard, thanks for the info. The Murray 2799 is a reboxed Hayden 2799, which I have already tried. It ran nearly constantly and the thermostat was in a tug of war with it trying to keep the engine temp up. I'm assuming yours does not operate this way? Also, before your OEM one failed, when did it kick on and off, at what temp scale, and how did it behave when it did fail?


My temp gauge is not calibrated in numbers. It just says normal across the top of the gauge. The needle starts at the far left when cold and advances to the "O" when it reaches normal operating temperature (197°). If all is working correctly the fan cuts in and out and the gauge needle never moves. When my OEM clutch failed, it just quit engaging. I pulled into a rest stop, unhooked the car and found a parts house (Oreilly). Change the clutch in the rest stop.
I have the original radiator core with replacement brass end tanks. The OEM radiator core has 20 fins per inch. Most replacement radiators only have 15 fins per inch and will not radiate enough concentrated heat to operate the fan clutch properly. When I had the 15 fins per inch replacement radiator in my MH the temp gauge would rise to what I considered to be about 230-240 before the fan clutch would kick in. With the OEM core the gauge doesn't move and the clutch kicks in and out as it should.
I can run up the side of the Rocky Mountains in the middle of summer, moving 20,500 lbs with my 460/528 stroker engine and not have any heat problem. Ford got it right.

* This post was edited 08/29/20 07:53pm by RLS7201 *


95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
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John&Joey

Summer-North,Winter-South

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Posted: 08/29/20 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After checking your transmission fluid take a sniff test. If it smells burnt (or over30k) swap it out.

RustyMacIntosh

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Posted: 08/30/20 04:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I had the cooling system rebuilt on my 96 Bounder F53 460, they put in a heavy duty fan clutch. It came from NAPA. I can hear it coming on and off as we are pulling grades. Whatever you do, put the biggest badass radiator in you can find

Rocket9k

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Posted: 08/30/20 03:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks everyone for all the info. I still need to check and probably change the transmission fluid. Last I checked it will still clear and smelled correct but i'm sure it's due for a change. RLS7201, your name has come up a bunch of times in the forum posts i've skimmed on this topic. I came across a post you did about making your fan clutch adjustable, but it's older and the pictures are gone. I'd like to see that if you still have the pictures? I'm thinking I can tweak mine to get it where I want it.

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 08/30/20 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rocket9k wrote:

Thanks everyone for all the info. I still need to check and probably change the transmission fluid. Last I checked it will still clear and smelled correct but i'm sure it's due for a change. RLS7201, your name has come up a bunch of times in the forum posts i've skimmed on this topic. I came across a post you did about making your fan clutch adjustable, but it's older and the pictures are gone. I'd like to see that if you still have the pictures? I'm thinking I can tweak mine to get it where I want it.


Here is the pic. Cut slots in the two aluminum posts. Epoxy a piece of 1 1/2" EMT in the slots cut slots for the spring.
You won't like it. No mater how you adjust it, it will come on too soon or too late. Did you check your radiator to see how many fins per inch it has? As seen in the pic, adjust spring end CC to engage sooner.
[image] [image]Click For Full-Size Image.]Modified fan clutch

Richard

Rocket9k

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Posted: 08/31/20 04:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Richard, it looks like you were moving the spring around considerably on that thing. Is that a Hayden 2799? From what I understand, 1/8" gives you approximately 10 degrees difference in engagement temperature. Did you find you had it move it more to get a change? It's going to be 84 degrees here tomorrow, so I may go wring its neck a bit and see how it does.

To answer your radiator question, I have an all aluminum replacement from superior cooling, as well as a complete banks system. It seems to do the job very well. The temp gauge stays between the O and M on the ford NORMAL gauge (190-210 according to my IR gun) which is well within acceptable temperature range for the trusty 460. If I am out of overdrive in 3rd gear going down the highway at 65-70 the temp will goto A, WITH the dash A/C on. I am sure if i'm climbing with a load on it will go beyond that, which is why I want to be sure my fan is working properly. Where exactly did/does your factory fan clutch kick on if I may ask, on your \__NORMAL___/ gauge?

I may have no problem whatsoever, but I would like to be 100% confident that I do not before I venture out on long runs.

Rocket9k

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Posted: 09/02/20 01:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So to give this topic some closure:

I took the motorhome for a drive yesterday and ran it hard to see how hot I could get it before the fan kicked on. It never happened, not even sitting at light, which it would always do for a few seconds after sitting still. I took it off last week to clean the spring and make sure the bearings were still tight, as well as test it with a heat gun. I must have let the rest of the smoke out, who knows.

I am going to search for the original Ford part# F2TZ 8A616-B (which is discontinued) or tweak my Hayden so that it does not run continuously. I will post here again when it's all resolved so hopefully nobody else with one of these old rigs will have to chase their tail like I did!

Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 09/02/20 03:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What temp did you see sitting at a light. My gauge would never go higher than 190 at 84 f outside. Like I said in my previous post since I installed headers my fan clutch almost never comes on. You said you have the banks system I am assuming you have headers. I think your cooling system is acting the way it should.

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 09/02/20 05:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rocket9k wrote:

Richard, it looks like you were moving the spring around considerably on that thing. Is that a Hayden 2799? From what I understand, 1/8" gives you approximately 10 degrees difference in engagement temperature. Did you find you had it move it more to get a change? It's going to be 84 degrees here tomorrow, so I may go wring its neck a bit and see how it does.

To answer your radiator question, I have an all aluminum replacement from superior cooling, as well as a complete banks system. It seems to do the job very well. The temp gauge stays between the O and M on the ford NORMAL gauge (190-210 according to my IR gun) which is well within acceptable temperature range for the trusty 460. If I am out of overdrive in 3rd gear going down the highway at 65-70 the temp will goto A, WITH the dash A/C on. I am sure if i'm climbing with a load on it will go beyond that, which is why I want to be sure my fan is working properly. Where exactly did/does your factory fan clutch kick on if I may ask, on your \__NORMAL___/ gauge?

I may have no problem whatsoever, but I would like to be 100% confident that I do not before I venture out on long runs.


Once up to temperature my gauge never moves off the "O" unless the the engine overheats. The clutch kicks in and out and the gauge don't move. Throughout the years of being on various RV forums, I typically see 460 issues such as yours, with replacement radiators. Do what you must.

Richard

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