For years, I had been trying to think of a way to add some counter space to my RV in the space where a slideout passes the cabinet. There was almost a foot of wasted space there. I had considered some type of drop-down shelf or removeable shelf, but I worried that some day the slide would be retracted with the shelf in place and damage the shelf.
I finally discovered the Lagun table mount. This device has an adjustable arm that can swing and lock in any position plus is adjustable in height. It is rated for 50 lbs, which is way more than I need for my project. The plan was to mount it to the slideout structure where it couldnโt get damaged, yet have it reach out to hold a table. When underway, it could be securely stowed over the couch.
The results were far better than expected. The table can indeed act as a countertop with the slide extended and can be locked in an out-of-the-way position with the slide retracted. However, we also discovered that it can be lowered and swung across the couch for a handy work surface or eating area.
The first step was to find a way to mount the thing. After removing the slideout trim, I made a two-part mounting block. There could be nothing protruding through the slide-out flange, so I installed two stainless T-nuts behind the flange. That way I could install the mounting block using two machine screws on the flange side. I had to shorten the machine screws a bit to ensure they did not protrude. On the beefier frame side, I used two lag screws into the frame. I then installed a second block of the same size that contained four 5/16โ T-nuts on the back to hold the table mount. Those two blocks provide the clearance I needed from the wall to swing the table.
Since my slide-out goes over a wheel well, there was a chance that, if the table leg was lowered when the slideout was extended, the bottom of the leg could catch the wheel well. To prevent that, I made the blocks just long enough to clear the wheel well and added a stop block to the bottom of the mounting blocks.
The Lagun table mounting plate was too big for my table and space, so I cut two inches off of one end. By mounting the plate toward one end of the table, it added even more flexibility to positioning the table. Since my table is natural wood, I slotted all of the holes to allow for cross-grain expansion. This would not be necessary if using plywood or composite board.
Making the table was another project. I wanted to try to make an epoxy river table, so this was a chance to practice on a small scale. It also turned out far better than I expected.
I finally discovered the Lagun table mount. This device has an adjustable arm that can swing and lock in any position plus is adjustable in height. It is rated for 50 lbs, which is way more than I need for my project. The plan was to mount it to the slideout structure where it couldnโt get damaged, yet have it reach out to hold a table. When underway, it could be securely stowed over the couch.
The results were far better than expected. The table can indeed act as a countertop with the slide extended and can be locked in an out-of-the-way position with the slide retracted. However, we also discovered that it can be lowered and swung across the couch for a handy work surface or eating area.
The first step was to find a way to mount the thing. After removing the slideout trim, I made a two-part mounting block. There could be nothing protruding through the slide-out flange, so I installed two stainless T-nuts behind the flange. That way I could install the mounting block using two machine screws on the flange side. I had to shorten the machine screws a bit to ensure they did not protrude. On the beefier frame side, I used two lag screws into the frame. I then installed a second block of the same size that contained four 5/16โ T-nuts on the back to hold the table mount. Those two blocks provide the clearance I needed from the wall to swing the table.
Since my slide-out goes over a wheel well, there was a chance that, if the table leg was lowered when the slideout was extended, the bottom of the leg could catch the wheel well. To prevent that, I made the blocks just long enough to clear the wheel well and added a stop block to the bottom of the mounting blocks.
The Lagun table mounting plate was too big for my table and space, so I cut two inches off of one end. By mounting the plate toward one end of the table, it added even more flexibility to positioning the table. Since my table is natural wood, I slotted all of the holes to allow for cross-grain expansion. This would not be necessary if using plywood or composite board.
Making the table was another project. I wanted to try to make an epoxy river table, so this was a chance to practice on a small scale. It also turned out far better than I expected.
Nice job. I like the table top.
I did the same thing but it's not a genuine Lagun but a Chinese knock-off. It's fairly well made except for the plastic bushings which self destructed in short order. I made some using copper pipe couplings. I salvaged the top from a folding table.
I did the same thing but it's not a genuine Lagun but a Chinese knock-off. It's fairly well made except for the plastic bushings which self destructed in short order. I made some using copper pipe couplings. I salvaged the top from a folding table.
