Slider hitch - How to Question

[humblerb]

After several years of bumper pull, we bought a fifth wheel about a year and a half ago.
I have learned how to tow and back a 5th.
I have a short bed truck and up until about 2 months ago, I had no problems.
Then, returning from a trip and backing into my driveway, I turned too sharp and busted out the back window.
Obviously, I was too dumb (or stubborn) to use the slider function that I had paid extra for.
I now use the slider regardless whether it looks like I need it or not.
My question is with regard to sliding the hitch toward the back before backing in to the camp site or driveway.
I leave the trailer hooked and resting on the hitch.
Release the lever, squeeze the trailer brakes and pull my truck forward.
Everything I can find on-line basically shows that this is how to do this.
Apparently BW customer service must be closed due to COVID-19, as I've called them several times and get a recording to try them later.
Question:
When I pull my truck forward to slide the hitch back, it really makes a horrible screeching noise.
I have read that the rails should NOT be lubricated.
The videos I have seen show doing it exactly as I have outlined.
You are not supposed to drop the supports and take weight off the hitch before you slide it, are you?
That seems like a good opportunity to possibly screw up the supports.
Am I doing this correct?

[JIMNLIN]

The pin may be so many inches behind or in front of the trucks rear axle but more important is where does a hitch like the Andersen or the PullRite SLR place the load.
A sliding hitch will slide that point fore and aft unlike a fixed hitch that pins to one point in the bed.

[cummins2014]

4x4ord wrote:
I"m 100% satisfied with my rigid hitch and will never own a manual slider because I know if I had a slider I would never take the time to slide it anyway. I recomend to anyone who thinks he needs a sliding hitch to get an auto slide. Have any of you with sliding hitches tried leaving the hitch in the rear position all the time? Does it feel any different running down the highway in the slid back position.

As many know, the Andersen is used by many ,and yes its slightly rear of center if I chose to run it that way, and I have. No where near my Reese slider in the rear position ,but still not centered on the axle or forward of the axle.

I can ,and will turn the Andersen adapter around with this new fifth wheel, it puts my kingpin in the same position that my Reese does, very slightly forward of center. I could of ran it the same way with the previous fifth wheel, but this new one has the more rounded front corners. With my old Montana the only time I moved the Reese back was to back into my RV pad, it was a tight fit. With the Andersen towing it further back I didn't have an issue. I think with being forward of the axle with this new fifth wheel ,backing into the RV pad will not be an issue.

I know some on this forum that have NEVER towed with an Andersen have said this is an issue being just rear of center ,but not true at all, have towed thousands of mile with the Andersen now.

[Me_Again]

4x4ord wrote:
I"m 100% satisfied with my rigid hitch and will never own a manual slider because I know if I had a slider I would never take the time to slide it anyway. I recomend to anyone who thinks he needs a sliding hitch to get an auto slide. Have any of you with sliding hitches tried leaving the hitch in the rear position all the time? Does it feel any different running down the highway in the slid back position.

B&W does not recommend towing with it in the rear position. I however moved a friends trailer in and out of storage for a few years, and had to leave the slider back because of his pin box and my box in the front of the hitch. About only 10 miles each way. Could not tell that much difference.

[JIMNLIN]

On my GN and 5th wheel rv and non rv trailers it unloaded the trucks front axle to the point sliding the front wheel on gravel roads on down hill braking events/etc was too easy and older trucks were a battle to keep going down the highway in a straight line.

On my 11200 lb 5th wheel rv trailer with a manual slider I sometimes flip the handle, and let the trailer roll back 10", while on the campground roads. AS the hitch slides back the 2500 Dodge/Cummins trucks rear starts sagging raising the front bumper 1 1/4".

When I was hauling I had a 3500 DRW chevy that my hitch shop got the ball mis located on the hitch plate 3" behind the trucks rear axle. It was 3 weeks before I had a reload back to the loading yard. Every mile in that 3 weeks was a constant battle fighting the steering wheel. Took the truck to a alignment shop which all was good.
Another driver and myself found the mis located ball which the hitch shop corrected. Next load out was a 460 mile run. The truck ran down the road like it was supposed too. No more fighting the wheel all day and nite long.

[4x4ord]

I"m 100% satisfied with my rigid hitch and will never own a manual slider because I know if I had a slider I would never take the time to slide it anyway. I recomend to anyone who thinks he needs a sliding hitch to get an auto slide. Have any of you with sliding hitches tried leaving the hitch in the rear position all the time? Does it feel any different running down the highway in the slid back position.

[humblerb]

More updates. Was able to loosen the top 4 bolts I mentioned earlier. Was in a campground and will need to take the hitch apart to loosen the 4 bottoms.
Not sure if this is a good option, because those bad boys are TORQUED. Had to stand on the Allen Wrench to get them to budge. Once the broke loose, they seemed fairly loose - could turn the Allen wrench by hand. Didn't get close to 1/4 turn. I snugged them back up a little.
Sprayed the rods with lithium.
When I got home, I pulled the lever and squeezed the trailer brakes. Took a little gas to get the hitch to start sliding. Once it started moving, I hit my brakes, Then I gave it a little gas and it slid in to place with a much smaller bump.
Not sure if the bolts, the lithium or just plain luck made the difference. But, seemed smoother this time.
Also, just a clarification from the B&W manual. It says it is not necessary to lube. It does not say to not lube them. I had in my mind that it told me not to lube them. Seems like it is much better. Will continue to monitor. Our next campground in July will not require backing. But, will need to back when we are back home.

[MikeRP]

humblerb wrote:
Update. Talked to B&W earlier this week. They advised that lithium can be used to lube the rails.
Also, there are 8 connectors(?) On the slider that are tightened/loosened with an Allen Wrench. Can loosen these NO MORE THAN a quarter turn.

I talked to them last week too and even though I had enquired about lithium a year ago they told me to use lithium this time on the rails. So for my yearly maintenance, I cleaned my hitch up, checked torque, and then applied lithium to the slides and it worked great this weekend.

To the OP I hit the top of my cab in the Wal-Mart from he_ _ in Naples Florida. Sucks. Got lucky and didn’t hurt the window. Now I slide mine when I enter any campground or tight spaces. I also put the tailgate down. If I don’t and I get a situation where the nose of the truck is pointed down and the Fiver is pointed up then the back of my flex air hitch touches the top of the tailgate. I also know now with the slide in the maneuvering position that the truck can jack knife and not come near the tailgate.

It’s a great hitch, I also put red or orange electrical tape on the very bottom of my pin. That way when I’m hooked up I can easily see the pin is locked properly and not high sided.

[Cummins12V98]

"I always slide my B&W manual slider back at check in and back forward at the park exit."

Can't wait to see the pic of you doing so with the TT attached. 😉

[Me_Again]

I always slide my B&W manual slider back at check in and back forward at the park exit. I sprayed silicone spray on the slide rods and rollers. Chris

[cummins2014]

humblerb wrote:
Update. Talked to B&W earlier this week. They advised that lithium can be used to lube.
Also, there are 8 connectors(?) On the slider that are tightened/loosened with an Allen Wrench. Can loosen these NO MORE THAN a quarter turn.

Wow, heck of way to get a slider working. I know its a hassle, and know many that have the same issue with getting a fifth wheel slider to slide back while connected. My Reese was always an adventure at times, and did not care for the way it banged when slid back.

The only time I ever used it was backing into my RV pad beside my house its a tight fit. I got to where I just pulled up front of the house , unhitched the fifth wheel ,slid the hitch back, hitched back up ,and backed in.

I suppose loosening a bunch of connectors ,and greasing it up might help, good luck .

[humblerb]

Update. Talked to B&W earlier this week. They advised that lithium can be used to lube.
Also, there are 8 connectors(?) On the slider that are tightened/loosened with an Allen Wrench. Can loosen these NO MORE THAN a quarter turn.

[RCMAN46]

To the OP. Were you on level ground and the trailer directly behind the truck.

You should be backing and pulling forward in a straight line.

I have an 18K Reese Elite slider and have never had any problems sliding my hitch.

[cummins2014]

humblerb wrote:
After several years of bumper pull, we bought a fifth wheel about a year and a half ago.
I have learned how to tow and back a 5th.
I have a short bed truck and up until about 2 months ago, I had no problems.
Then, returning from a trip and backing into my driveway, I turned too sharp and busted out the back window.
Obviously, I was too dumb (or stubborn) to use the slider function that I had paid extra for.
I now use the slider regardless whether it looks like I need it or not.
My question is with regard to sliding the hitch toward the back before backing in to the camp site or driveway.
I leave the trailer hooked and resting on the hitch.
Release the lever, squeeze the trailer brakes and pull my truck forward.
Everything I can find on-line basically shows that this is how to do this.
Apparently BW customer service must be closed due to COVID-19, as I've called them several times and get a recording to try them later.
Question:
When I pull my truck forward to slide the hitch back, it really makes a horrible screeching noise.
I have read that the rails should NOT be lubricated.
The videos I have seen show doing it exactly as I have outlined.
You are not supposed to drop the supports and take weight off the hitch before you slide it, are you?
That seems like a good opportunity to possibly screw up the supports.
Am I doing this correct?

Never been crazy about sliding the hitch back on mine on the rare occasion I do it. I just take the time now , and unhook ,slide the hitch back, and reconnect.

[humblerb]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Per B&W

To slide hitch back

1. While the trailer is coupled, set the trailer brakes and/or chock the trailer wheels.
2. Pull the handle towards the rear of the truck to move it to the unlocked position.
3. Pull the truck forward slowly until the handle falls into the locked position.
4. Release the trailer brakes, un-chock the trailer and



To return hitch to towing position

1. Once the trailer is satisfactorily positioned, set the trailer brakes and/or chock the trailer wheels.
2. Pull the handle towards the rear of the truck to move it to the unlocked position.
3. Move the truck slowly in reverse until the handle falls and is in the locked position.
4. Release the trailer brakes and/or un-chock the trailer.

B&W clearly states "Note: No lubrication of the sliding mechanism is necessary."

I might send them a note and update how to return to towing position.
With the trailer unhitched, climb in the bed of your truck.
Pull the handle towards the rear of the truck to move it to the unlocked position.
Push the hitch toward the front of the truck with your hands until the handle falls and is in the locked position.
LOL