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 > Cost to install apparatus for Flat-towing

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Roger in VERMONT

Rutland, Vt. USA

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Posted: 06/08/20 05:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our Jeep dealer charged me $300.00 to install the base plate on the Jeep.
I purchased a new Roadmaster Sterling from a person who never used it because they traded their motorhome for a 5th wheel for $200.00. Saw it on Craigslist.
I think I paid about $250 for the base plate.


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Roger in VERMONT

Rutland, Vt. USA

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Posted: 06/08/20 05:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our Jeep dealer charged me $300.00 to install the base plate on the Jeep.
I purchased a new Roadmaster Sterling from a person who never used it because they traded their motorhome for a 5th wheel for $200.00. Saw it on Craigslist.
I think I paid about $250 for the base plate.

johnwalkerpa1

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Posted: 06/09/20 08:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One thing to note.....installing the base plate yourself will vary depending on the vehicle. After installing one on a 2017 Ford Explorer, I think I'd pay someone to do it next time....it's not rocket science or even that physically difficult....just a real pain in the $&%*#. Have to remove 1/2 of the front end, shim the washer fluid reservoir and then reshape the inside of the grill.....

obiwancanoli

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Posted: 07/28/20 01:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.

Spoke with a dealer about installation, etc., and he's been very helpful... will probably have him install everything... this dealer seemed to not like the idea of using the coach braking system tied into the toad, too many risks that were anything to go wrong, it could adversely affect the pair.

So we discussed other types of braking systems, at which point he suggested a wireless braking system. I haven't seen any posts on this subject, so I'm curious if this might be worth looking into.

Other systems require a box-like unit placed on the driver side floor, in front of the brake, but it seems to require power to run, and that won't do when the battery's supposed to be disconnected.

Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...

So, thanks again, for your contributions... getting closer to pulling the trigger...

What up?

Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection?

FloridaRosebud

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Posted: 07/28/20 02:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

obiwancanoli wrote:



Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection?


My guess is no, the system probably won't work backwards unless you did some serious rewiring. It triggers off of pressing the brake pedal of the Edge, which is not in use. I'll be curious to see what others say....

Al

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Posted: 07/28/20 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My buddy has a wireless blue OX brake system that goes on he drivers front floor. He hasn't had any issues with it in over a year of using it. That will probably be the system I go with next!


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Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 07/29/20 05:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The brake systems powered by the RV's air brakes are the best and most reliable. M&G is the best but they don't have equipment to fit all tow vehicles. Air Force 1 would be my 2nd choice. I have been towing with an M&G for 20 years without issue.


What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

way2roll

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Posted: 07/29/20 06:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

obiwancanoli wrote:

OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.




Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...



Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.


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AikenRacer

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Posted: 07/29/20 04:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

$3,000 if you buy new including a Brake Buddy


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obiwancanoli

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Posted: 07/30/20 08:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I concluded the Readybrake not as effective simply because using the brakes on the toad would seem to me to be more effective. I have no other evidence to support my conclusion, but am happy to accede to more knowledgeable sources...


way2roll wrote:

obiwancanoli wrote:

OK, here's something else I'm researching... braking systems.




Also happened across a Readybrute with built-in braking mechanism, and concluded it's probably not as effective as what's needed, but again, am a rookie at this... which explains why I'm posting this...



Why would you conclude the ready brute elite not as effective? This is likely the most simple, effective and risk risk free set up you can have. It's a surge brake built into the bar itself and uses your own car's braking system. It's all mechanical so no wiring to fail, no air or hydraulics to fail, nothing to install/uninstall every time you hook up.


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