problem with electric water heater-Fixed but new problem

[rbp111]

I have a Suburban 12gal electric water heater which about 5 years old. It recently started to give me problems in that the heater warms the water, but it does not get hot. I have tried everything, checked the breakers, the fuses, all the switches, all the various sources of water including the outside showers. I have checked everything, but still, the water comes out warm, not hot. The water was on before the heater was turned on. As a matter of fact, the water was hot from the sink at night before the shower which came the next morning and then it was warm.
I have an appointment with a dealer in two weeks, but wondered if anyone else had this problem.

Since posting this problem, I took in the fifth-wheel and got it fixed for free. They said that the thermostat and the element had shorted out. Well, I was glad that the heating problem was fixed. Got the trailer home and found that there is another problem. It leaks water from the point where the drinking water hose attaches to the "kantleak" female portion of the trailer.
I called Kantleak, and they don't supply the gasket which I think the problem is. They want to sell me the whole portion of the drinking water which is over $39, not including shipping. I have been to Home Depot, Camping World and two other dealers looking for the gasket I need.
Any ideas?

[mr__ed]

In addition to the above comments, I'd like to offer some further suggestions. All the current needed to supply the heater needs to pass through the thermostat mounted somewhere on the hot water tank. In my RV, it was conveniently mounted to the tank's exterior and accessible by moving a little insulation out of the way. The thermostat contains metallic contacts that open and close according to heating requirements. If they degrade over time, the current available for the heater could decline before they finally burn out. if replacement of the heating element doesn't help (as suggested by the above respondent), you could possibly look into this area, which brings me to another point.

I always carried electrical test equipment in my RV, as many other RVers do. I used a digital volt/ohmeter and a clamp-on ammeter for electrical testing. My meter was a professional Fluke brand, but for general usage an inexpensive one has sufficient accuracy. If you feel safe in testing electrical circuitry, or can learn, I feel such an item can come in handy in diagnosing an electrical problem (probably not important to have a clamp-on ammeter)

As far as testing water heater problems goes, if and when you replace the heater, take a resistance reading on the new element and record that reading. A good heater should read similarly. A burnt out one would be easy to spot. Obviously, a voltage check to the heater would be in order if you can safely do so, although I've seen instances where voltage may read correctly but not enough current was available.

In summation, procure some simple test equipment and learn how to use it if you feel you're confident in your ability.

[fj12ryder]

mr. ed wrote:

BB_TX wrote:
Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.

I agree. If the water does get warm, the element is not at fault. It is either good or completely burnt out, which would result in zero warming. I've dealt with cartridge heaters in my business and occasionally one would develop a short between the heater element and the case, but that would typically trip a circuit breaker, depending on how good the grounding was to the case of the heater.

Unfortunately you're wrong with that demonstrative statement. As I mentioned before I have had one fail, but not completely. The problem was solved with the replacement of the element. Unless you've dealt exclusively with hundreds of cases, your experience may be incomplete.

[mr__ed]

BB_TX wrote:
Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.

I agree. If the water does get warm, the element is not at fault. It is either good or completely burnt out, which would result in zero warming. I've dealt with cartridge heaters in my business and occasionally one would develop a short between the heater element and the case, but that would typically trip a circuit breaker, depending on how good the grounding was to the case of the heater.

[bob213]

520789 is still available but has been replaced by 520900. OEM is 1440 watts but as fj12ryder suggested the 1500w. will work fine. Our True Value Hardware actually sells the Camco version.

[fj12ryder]

I'd just make a trip to Lowe's or Home Depot or any hardware store for the heating element. Cheaper, just as good, and quicker to get. I believe the rating is 1500 watts. Very common at the hardware store, and usually less than $10.

[rbp111]

I presume that the element is part # 520900.

[bob213]

rbp111 wrote:
Bob, yes I pressed the reset button. Many times. I did a check of everything probably six times. It failed me in just 5 years.
I still am confused if the problem is the heating element or the thermostat.
I still have the appointment. If I don't figure it out, than I will take it in.

Both are quick fixes. The t-stat is simple and quick. I would try to avoid a trip to the dealer as they could tie you up for a month.

#232306 is for electric side
t-stat

My t-stat looked good(had not burned thru) but I replaced it anyway. That fixed my problem.

[fj12ryder]

Well, the easiest and cheapest option is to change the heating element and see if that fixes the issue. You're looking at about $12 for that. Or you could check the resistance of the heating element, and see how that compares to a normal element. I've read that it should be around 16 ohms.

I don't know how much the thermostat is, but if the element is good, that would indicate it is the thermostat.

[rbp111]

Bob, yes I pressed the reset button. Many times. I did a check of everything probably six times. It failed me in just 5 years.
I still am confused if the problem is the heating element or the thermostat.
I still have the appointment. If I don't figure it out, than I will take it in.

[fj12ryder]

Absolutely. Checking for leaks is always a good idea before buttoning everything back up.

[mobeewan]

fj12ryder wrote:

mobeewan wrote:

bob213 wrote:
Element is easy to replace just make sure you buy the wrench to take it off.($5 or$6).

Watch this:
element

The video was good at showing the basics, but he didn't use any Teflon tape when installing the new element or reinstalling the anode plug. Nor did he clean the tank threads to remove the remnants of Teflon tape.

After he reconnected the leads for the heating element he should have refilled the water heater and turned on the element to test it and make sure it was going to heat and the element threads were not going to leak.

You never know for sure if the element threads or the anode plug threads are going to leak until the tank and the water are heated up. He put the cover back on the element access so he would never know it was leaking unless he found the floor was getting wet under the water heater.

After the element is successfully tested and there is no leakage then he should have continued to reinstall the element cover and the gas burner tube.

I'll give the video a B minus.

Thread sealant isn't necessary on the threads for the heating element, since they don't do any sealing. The rubber gasket is what seals the heating element, the threads are regular SAE, not NPT.

A little sealant on the anode rod can't hurt though.

I did not realize that there was an o-ring seal on the heating element. However, it still needs to be hot water pressure checked for leakage before the cover is put back on and everything else is reconnected.

[doxiemom11]

Needs a new heating element. Probably caked with lime and crud so it's can't heat efficiently anymore. They are pretty cheap. Will cost an arm and a leg at the dealer if they fix it.

[kellem]

BB_TX wrote:
Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.

My thoughts as well.

I'm also betting an open bypass valve at the WH.....fixed a many at campgrounds.

[bob213]

Have you pressed the reset on the thermostat? Suburban has separate thermostats for gas and electric so gas could work fine while electric hi limit t-stat could need reset or replaced. Check for continuity(and power) at screws on element before removing. Hope this answer gets a passing grade.