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Wheel Bearings

gmg
Explorer
Explorer
We recently experienced a broken right side spring shackle. We actually drove about 500 miles on it before we discovered the problem. The trailer was sagging on the right side. The spring shackles were resting against the trailer frame. My question is do you think that would have caused any damage to the wheel bearings. The service guy that is repairing the suspension is recommending repacking the bearings due to our towing the trailer in that condition. What are your opinions. Thanks.
2013 Ford F-250 Powerstroke Crewcab; Pullrite Superglide Hitch; 05 Everest 294L 5th Wheel.
40 REPLIES 40

fj12ryder
Explorer II
Explorer II
jfkmk wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
ghooos wrote:
can,t hurt and should not be a big expense. p.s a new seal also and no china bearings put back in.
Well, that may be true, but I have read of people that had immediate issues after having their bearings replaced/repacked.

My thought on things that can be mal-adjusted when installed is usually: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Replacing or cleaning/repacking and installing wheel bearings is probably one of the easiest things that can be done (mechanically). Whoever can’t handle this job has no business owning a wrench.
I'm not arguing your point, but that doesn't make my observation any less true.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
ghooos wrote:
can,t hurt and should not be a big expense. p.s a new seal also and no china bearings put back in.
Well, that may be true, but I have read of people that had immediate issues after having their bearings replaced/repacked.

My thought on things that can be mal-adjusted when installed is usually: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Replacing or cleaning/repacking and installing wheel bearings is probably one of the easiest things that can be done (mechanically). Whoever can’t handle this job has no business owning a wrench.

Campinghoss
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
Actually many vehicles use a very similar system, the front wheel bearings on my truck are Timken-style bearings just like my trailers. I think the main problem with many trailers is poor assembly practices of the wheel bearings, and poor quality parts.

Many people propose pulling trailer wheel bearings every year, which I consider silly. I never do it with my vehicles and am not going to do it with the trailer. Of course the main thing is making sure the wheel bearings are set correctly and have sufficient grease when new. Sadly this is not necessarily something you can rely on with a new trailer.


I agree with the above. I had a Sunnybrook fiver for 14 years and never changed the bearings. I did check for play each year but that was it. What folks don't realize is how do campers get to the dealers? They are pulled. If a trailer can make it from the mfg to wherever the bearings are in good shape. Now I know there are exceptions but that is just what it is----exceptions.
Camping Hoss
2017 Open Range 3X 388RKS
MorRyde IS with disc brakes
2017 F-350 6.7 with hips 8'bed
Lucie our fur baby
Lucky 9/15/2007 - 1/30/2023

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
My Timken’s have an automotive application. Brake pads are 85 Buick Century.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
All I can say is that I checked my old Komfort's bearings for heat at every stop and jacked each wheel up yearly to check for play in the bearings. I'd also grease the EZLubes at the same time, spinning the wheel and stopping when I heard popping sounds, just like we did on everything we greased on the farm. When I had the wheels pulled after 10 low-mileage years, there was still no play, the bearings were in excellent shape and I =could= have reused them, but chose to replace them and the seals. Had the brakes adjusted at the same time. Ran for another 3 years doing the same thing, then I sold it. Never had a seal issue, never had grease on the brakes. NOT a fan of the NEVRLubes...

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

fj12ryder
Explorer II
Explorer II
Actually many vehicles use a very similar system, the front wheel bearings on my truck are Timken-style bearings just like my trailers. I think the main problem with many trailers is poor assembly practices of the wheel bearings, and poor quality parts.

Many people propose pulling trailer wheel bearings every year, which I consider silly. I never do it with my vehicles and am not going to do it with the trailer. Of course the main thing is making sure the wheel bearings are set correctly and have sufficient grease when new. Sadly this is not necessarily something you can rely on with a new trailer.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Curly2001
Explorer
Explorer
I know this has been asked or said before but I am old and can't remember .....why can't they use regular automotive style wheel bearings like in our cars and trucks? I had a truck that had 165,000 miles on it and never had to replace/pack either front or rear bearings. Here goes the can of worms.....
Thanks,
Curly
2019 Chev. Double cab 2500HD, 6.0, 4:10 diffs, six speed auto
2013 Heartland Sundance XLT 265RK

fj12ryder
Explorer II
Explorer II
ghooos wrote:
can,t hurt and should not be a big expense. p.s a new seal also and no china bearings put back in.
Well, that may be true, but I have read of people that had immediate issues after having their bearings replaced/repacked.

My thought on things that can be mal-adjusted when installed is usually: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
ghooos wrote:
can,t hurt and should not be a big expense. p.s a new seal also and no china bearings put back in.


National or SKF USMade seals.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

ghooos
Explorer
Explorer
can,t hurt and should not be a big expense. p.s a new seal also and no china bearings put back in.

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
AirSupport wrote:
Replace the wheel bearing. Why not, they're super cheap! Replace all of them at the same time. Just my recommendation. Again, the bearings themselves are an inexpensive cost to your expensive 5er


I never replace a good wheel bearing for the hey of it.

I would be throwing a good proven bearing in the scrap and putting in one that has not been proven. No way. :h

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
The top "D" surface seats into hub like normal. The lower "D" grips the spindle, so there is no spindle wear.

You could use this on a grease system also. The National Seals are US Made.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

TxGearhead
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
It looks very similar to a regular seal. Best to look up the seal number on National’s site to see what they show.

Maybe someone with better computer skills could post something.


Probably Inpro bearing isolators.
Inpro-seal.com
2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

AirSupport
Explorer
Explorer
Replace the wheel bearing. Why not, they're super cheap! Replace all of them at the same time. Just my recommendation. Again, the bearings themselves are an inexpensive cost to your expensive 5er