Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Newbie Electrical Issue - Advice Needed Please
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 > Newbie Electrical Issue - Advice Needed Please

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MrWizard

Traveling

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Joined: 06/27/2004

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Posted: 09/27/19 12:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

re: power converter online: I tried switching the circuit breaker for the converter to off, but that shut off a bunch of stuff. How should I handle shutting it off?


Most things in the TT need 12v , either from the battery or the converter/charger
Fridge controls, lp sensor, lights, water pump, Gauges, water heater control, furnace/heater
Battery should be connected unless RV is in storage without shore power,
You turn off converter with no battery, yes everything is going to stop working
once the battery has reached full charge
The converter will use very little 120v power, to maintain the battery


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brows827

Texas

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Posted: 09/27/19 03:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

Depending upon the water heater model, there may be a little switch in the outside compartment that turns on/off the AC element. The switch inside may only be for gas operation. That’s how ours is.

From what I found online, they use 12A on electric which is exactly what you said you have unexplained.

Search Google images for “suburban water heater outside switch”.


You're a genius! Went outside and found the heater compartment. This looks to be likely what was happening.

Thank you! And everyone!

And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?

wnjj

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Posted: 09/27/19 04:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

brows827 wrote:

And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?

Correct. It's only for the 120V heating element on the water heater. I've never actually turned ours on in the 13 years we've had our camper. We're usually not on hookups and if we were I wouldn't want to use 12A before running anything else.

You also want to never have it on when the water is drained or the element will go poof. Some of those switches have a hole for a cotter pin to lock it "off" when drained.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 09/27/19 04:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

brows827 wrote:

And just to confirm - this switch should only control the water heater, but nothing else like the refrigerator?
Controls water heater electric element only.
You can still have hot water using propane which is probably controlled inside with an illuminated switch.

* This post was edited 09/27/19 04:42pm by time2roll *


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garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 09/28/19 05:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on fridge and/or water heater causing the issue. At home, using an extension cord is always a bad idea unless you have an industrial 12 gauge one. Often cords sold as "Heavy Duty" only means they are big around. See if wire size is stamped into the cord. 14g is only good for 15 amps so you are pretty close to limit already with one of those.

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