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 > 5.9 Cummins Diesel Towing capacity

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carringb

Corvallis, OR

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Posted: 09/16/19 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

x3 on the torque converter lockup.

But also what kind of transmission cooler was added? Most of the budget aftermarket coolers are tube-and-fin. These usually cool worse than the stock cooler. You need a good size plate-style cooler to make an improvement. The tube-and-fin style cooler can even restrict fluid-flow enough to be detrimental.

And what kind of condition is the radiator in? If it's original, it probably has a decent scale buildup especially if tap water was used to fill it. Replacements are cheap if it hasn't been done yet.


Bryan

2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/16/19 09:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good point on radiator! With the catch bottle that holds any blow by oil mounted to front of engine the atomized oil gets sucked around to the front of the radiator and can plug it off or at a minimum decrease cooling.

My 01 I bought last summer had the front of the radiator partly plugged and temps climbed easily even towing 7k.

The oil also gets everywhere! The front of the radiator was blasted with a garden hose while in the truck. So first pic would look much worse if I had not hit it with water before.

Catch bottle is mounted inside drivers side front fender.

[image]
[image]
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2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

BarryG20

Castle Rock, Colorado

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Posted: 09/16/19 10:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had an 01 and pulled a similar trailer pin weight was closer to 1800lbs. It handled it fine. As mentioned the trans is the weak link in that truck (I had mine rebuilt well so it was no longer an issue for me). The cooling system is adequate if as someone mentioned the radiator is clean on the front. And as he mentioned pulling it out is the only real way to clean it as you just cant get to it good enough when it is in the vehicle. I used to pull mine about every 5 years.


2016 Jayco 28.5 RLTS

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/16/19 12:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did have a radiator shop clean mine and test.

rhagfo

Portland, OR

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Posted: 09/16/19 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

billy1davis wrote:

My owners manual tells me the max pin weight is 1200 and the 5vr (2007 Arctic Fox 27 ft) has pin weight of 1500lbs. On top of that the trailer is max of 12000 and the truck is rated at 9600lbs approximate. I could change out the rear end to make it max out at 13000lbs. I have a chip and an extra cooler on the tranny which I had rebuilt. But coming up on steep and slow 2 lane roads i top out the temp on the tranny. Engine is fine but the tranny isn't.
NOt sure about getting a new truck or lightly used ot stepping down to a bumper pull'
Truck is 2001 Dodge dually 5.9l
Suggestions?


So if you want to pull that with your Ram it will need a lower gear ratio. I see that with a 4.10 gear the 3500 is rated at 12,900# towing. If you care you will likely be over the ridiculously low 10,500# or 11,000# GVWR of the Ram.
don't state if reg cab or Quad cab, 4X4 or 4X2?

These are the towing charts from the manual of our old 2001 Ram.
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The best you can do is get a quality rebuild on the trans, with good additional coolers, and go with 4.10 gears and you should be ok. You might also put a small chip on the engine for a few more HP and lb. ft.
We towed a 12,500 5er with our 2001 Ram 2500, small chip and Bosch RV275 injectors, 5 speed manual and 3.55 gears. I would also add a PacBrake exhaust brake for extra stopping power.

[image]


Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
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wilber1

Abbotsford B.C.

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Posted: 09/16/19 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a 01 and enquired about a lock up controller to keep the converter locked in second. I was told I would also need a modified valve body, a switch wouldn’t do it on its own. A worthwhile thing to do though because if you can keep the converter locked, temperatures won’t go up much at all. You will also need a way to keep the converter locked if you install an exhaust brake.


"Never trust a man who has not a single redeeming vice" WSC

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Grit dog

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Posted: 09/16/19 02:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ Correct, a modified valve body and a lock up switch are required for any more than 3rd and 4th gear lockup.
Seeing you have 3.55 gears as well, stock 03 power and 47re trans ratios are not a very good combo power or gearing wise for heavier towing. When towing, I'd run the smallest tires you can put on it with adequate capacity. Like 245 75 16s, re-gearing is expensive. Power is low, so gears or a tune are the easiest power solutions for moderately more power. If your tans is built a little bit, tow tune will do wonders, for 1/4 the cost of gears.
Synopsis for towing 12k+ high profile like a boss and not getting killed on the uphill runs.
-Tune
-Built trans
-VB and lockup switch
-Little tires

Add an exhaust brake, only if you have a manual lock up switch and only in the gears that it will lock in.

Bottom line, assuming your trans is stout enough to handle a little power and e brake, you have some work to do to get it to tow anything like a newer truck.
Only about $1200 in parts for a cheap tuner and a VB/switch if you do the work yourself, otherwise closer to $2k.
Exh brake, $1200 diy, over $1500 installed.
Tires...however much they cost.


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

ls1mike

Bremerton

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Posted: 09/16/19 08:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

^ Correct, a modified valve body and a lock up switch are required for any more than 3rd and 4th gear lockup.
Seeing you have 3.55 gears as well, stock 03 power and 47re trans ratios are not a very good combo power or gearing wise for heavier towing. When towing, I'd run the smallest tires you can put on it with adequate capacity. Like 245 75 16s, re-gearing is expensive. Power is low, so gears or a tune are the easiest power solutions for moderately more power. If your tans is built a little bit, tow tune will do wonders, for 1/4 the cost of gears.
Synopsis for towing 12k+ high profile like a boss and not getting killed on the uphill runs.
-Tune
-Built trans
-VB and lockup switch
-Little tires

Add an exhaust brake, only if you have a manual lock up switch and only in the gears that it will lock in.

Bottom line, assuming your trans is stout enough to handle a little power and e brake, you have some work to do to get it to tow anything like a newer truck.
Only about $1200 in parts for a cheap tuner and a VB/switch if you do the work yourself, otherwise closer to $2k.
Exh brake, $1200 diy, over $1500 installed.
Tires...however much they cost.

I was going to say my BIL had the same truck, it was no power house towing his 12000lbs trailer. You need modifications and a good transmission cooler.
You are what 235HP and 460Ft/lbs of torque? How do you expect it to tow that much weight with a 4 speed and those gears? You could get out of the go pedal a bit. I ended up putting a Tru cool 40k in his truck and no more over heating, but there were plenty of times where he would slow down on hills. He worked for the carnival with that truck for years, and with the cooler and rebuilt trans it was really reliable.


Mike
2017 Chevy 3500HD 6.0 Crew Cab Long bed
2012 Passport 3220 BHWE
Me, the Wife, two little ones and two dogs.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/17/19 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Correct, a modified valve body and a lock up switch are required for any more than 3rd and 4th gear lockup"

On my 98 12V I has a simple light switch taped to my shifter that once rolling I flipped that would cause "ALL" gears to lock! Only negative if you forgot to unlock it would stall the engine when coming to a stop.

Grit dog

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Posted: 09/17/19 03:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ I believe that the valve body also has to be modified to lock up 2nd and 1st gear. In any gear, a circuit must be completed for lockup (the switch), but in stock form the valve body only has the ability to lock 3rd and 4th gears.
IIRC from back in the day, there's a cheap "hack" to accomplish this or of course purchasing a modified valve body. Has something to do with drilling out or plugging a certain port to allow the right flow path for converter lockup in the lower gears.
ICBW though.

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