Hard wired surge protector

[dodge_guy]

Hello. So I'm considering a surge protector for next year. I'm leaning towards a hard wired version, Progressive Industries HW50C. However I have read that when they fail. You lose all power in the coach. Not sure as I'm new to surge protectors. Which brings up a question. Where would be the best place to wire it in? Sounds like at the panel is where it should be wired in. But if it fails I have no power. I was thinking if I wired it in before the ATS then if it did fail I would still be able to get power from the generator. I haven't ruled out an inline protector, but have read that when they do end up protecting the RV they cannot be repaired and need to be replaced.

This is all new to me, so please enlighten me!

[chaffeekid]

I cut the big 50 amp cord and installed a male plug on the short end from the RV, so I can plug into my Generator, you guys with auto switch don't have to. Then I can plug the short end into the progressive portable, the other end has a female plug wired and the progressive is plugged into that.
The portable sits in the electric bay out of the weather, and out of sight 🙂

[dodge_guy]

Thanks again everyone. So it sounds like the best place to install it is before the ATS? And i was thinking after seeing plenty of failed RV plugs both supply cable and pedestal that I think I will keep it hard wired instead of making it easy to unplug and bypass. No need to make any more failure points than needed. At least that is my thinking.

[time_to_go_now]

time2roll wrote:
Four large wire nuts and the box is bypassed. Just leave some slack in the wire. But there are very few posts of random failures. Far more good reports of the protector saving the RV.

Exactly. There is no need to plan "what if" it breaks! Just four wire nuts and you are good to go. And even then, the genny will still work. And maybe you have an inverter and batteries. I would just go about my trip as if I was dry camping until I could get the unit replaced.

[time2roll]

Bumpyroad wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Four large wire nuts and the box is bypassed. Just leave some slack in the wire. But there are very few posts of random failures. Far more good reports of the protector saving the RV.

so you are recommending buying one without a built in, easy to operate,function, and plan on going out in the rain with 4 wire nuts, rather than flipping a switch?
bumpy

Not exactly. Get the bypass switch. On unit or remote is fine. I thought all PI-EMS hardwire units had the bypass.

Anyway if the fail is so catastrophic that the bypass does not work then you will have to go out in whatever the weather conditions and bypass using the wire nuts. That is if you absolutely need immediate power. House battery should hold you for a bit unless you need air conditioning. Or just roll out but you still need to unplug.

My EMS is installed behind the main electric panel and is accessed from within the RV by removing the panel. Yes I would still have to tredge through the four feet of snow while it rains to get a screw driver from an exterior compartment. 😉

[pianotuna]

horsedoc,

They use mov technology. Over time there is cumulative damage. The mov's eventually fail and have to be replaced.

[Horsedoc]

Don't know what kind of failure Dodge Guy is speaking of, but my Progressive portable has refuse to pass power a number of times due to low voltage. Perhaps a lightning strike would require a rebuild at the factory but I have yet to have a failure that would need a rebuild.

[JoeH]

I have the "hard wired " progressive , but went to Home Depot and bought 50 amp plug and receptacle and installed them so that it can be easily removed should it be needed. I did the same with my autoformer.

[Bumpyroad]

time2roll wrote:
Four large wire nuts and the box is bypassed. Just leave some slack in the wire. But there are very few posts of random failures. Far more good reports of the protector saving the RV.

so you are recommending buying one without a built in, easy to operate,function, and plan on going out in the rain with 4 wire nuts, rather than flipping a switch?
bumpy

[time2roll]

Four large wire nuts and the box is bypassed. Just leave some slack in the wire. But there are very few posts of random failures. Far more good reports of the protector saving the RV.

[ScottG]

The unit the OP is looking at does have a bypass feature but that doesnt do much good if you have to take it out for repair.
The bypass feature is to allow you to ignore the fault present and allow power through anyway.

[winniman]

Bumpyroad wrote:
I would get something with a bypass feature.
bumpy

My friends surge protector went on our trip this summer. We had to disconnect the wires coming in and going out, and used one of the connectors as a temporary link to get him going again until he could get a new one. He could have still used his generator, as the protector is installed before the transfer switch. You shouldn't need protection from your own generator. In the process of trying to fix his, we learned his model also came with a keyed bypass. Unfortunately, his wasn't one of those models. His was similar to this model.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Surge-Guard-35530-Hardwire-Model-30-Amp/283602101316?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3Df61ff518f4cb473597a23723daaadd44%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D143211287998%26itm%3D283602101316%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

[dodge_guy]

Ok thanks again. And just to clarify, the ones that plug into the pedestal are a one time failure! Meaning they have to be replaced when they do their job.

[IAMICHABOD]

There is a switch located on the remote panel, and allows the user to bypass the computer circuit in the EMS in the event of computer failure, thus allowing source power into the RV. This does not disable the surge protection portion of the EMS.

It is field serviceable so if the computer goes down they will ship you one under their warranty.

[Bumpyroad]

I would get something with a bypass feature.
bumpy