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JimK-NY

NY

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Posted: 09/08/19 07:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:

The one I'm looking at, max draw is 6.5 amps at 100% duty cycle but less than 1.2 amps cycling.



is there any stats on how many Ah one of these fridges would draw over a 24 hour period? would be nice to see something say at a 40 degree cabnet temp in 90 degree weather parked in the sun it used so many Ah.

Steve


I have a small (4 cu ft) NovaKool with a Danfoss compressor. When the ambient temp is around 70 degrees or less it does a great job pull 2-3 amps with about a 1/3 duty cycle. That is about 20 or so AH per day. When the temps increase to the upper 80s or 90 degrees, the unit runs almost continuously. It keeps internal temp pretty well but chews up 60-75 AH per day. My solar system has 300 AH of AGM batteries so I am good for only 2 days in the shade or 2 days of clouds. Even with full summer sun my panels are not big enough to replenish the system with a full day of charging. Compressor refrigerators definitely have a downside.

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 09/08/19 06:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:

The one I'm looking at, max draw is 6.5 amps at 100% duty cycle but less than 1.2 amps cycling.



is there any stats on how many Ah one of these fridges would draw over a 24 hour period? would be nice to see something say at a 40 degree cabnet temp in 90 degree weather parked in the sun it used so many Ah.

Steve


I have a small (4 cu ft) NovaKool with a Danfoss compressor. When the ambient temp is around 70 degrees or less it does a great job pull 2-3 amps with about a 1/3 duty cycle. That is about 20 or so AH per day. When the temps increase to the upper 80s or 90 degrees, the unit runs almost continuously. It keeps internal temp pretty well but chews up 60-75 AH per day. My solar system has 300 AH of AGM batteries so I am good for only 2 days in the shade or 2 days of clouds. Even with full summer sun my panels are not big enough to replenish the system with a full day of charging. Compressor refrigerators definitely have a downside.


how big is your solar, I have 480watts of panels and 470AH of batteries in my 5th wheel, want to put as much as I can on my TC when I find the one I like.

Steve


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JimK-NY

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Posted: 09/08/19 06:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have 2 x 135 watt panels. This past year I traveled from mid August through the end of November. There were a lot of days where the solar did not keep up due to low sun angle, short days, shade and clouds. I was pretty much OK until I needed to use the furnace even minimally.

c.traveler2

Moreno Valley,Ca.

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Posted: 09/08/19 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StirCrazy wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:

The one I'm looking at, max draw is 6.5 amps at 100% duty cycle but less than 1.2 amps cycling.



is there any stats on how many Ah one of these fridges would draw over a 24 hour period? would be nice to see something say at a 40 degree cabnet temp in 90 degree weather parked in the sun it used so many Ah.

Steve


I have this refrigerator Dometic CR1110, this link has some information that may answer some of your questions but on my unit.

Dometic CR1110


This refrigerator will stay below 40 degrees on days that are over a 100.


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SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

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Posted: 09/08/19 09:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Geewizard wrote:

996Pilot wrote:

When I replaced mine in my 2006 Outfitter Apex 8 I went with an Isotherm unit. Same exact footprint as my Nocold but 45% more refrigerator space. I had to play some tricks getting it into the camper but it was worth it.


I replaced mine in my 2004 Outfitter Apex 8 with the Tundra T42. The cutout was almost the same. I had to remove the door and frame to swap them out but no big deal. Absolutely worth it. I bought mine from Sure Marine Service in Seattle in about 2005.

Nice comparison chart: https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Refrigeration-Size-Comparison/


Excellent pricing on Dometic Marine units btw.


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SidecarFlip

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Posted: 09/08/19 09:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't have an issue running my inverter genny to take up the slack. I'm 'green' but not that green...lol

I still think (maybe I'm all wet) that the more insulation you have between the cabinet the fridge is housed in and the fridge itself, the more efficient it is. I know the first year I had my TC, I was really dismayed with the Amish fridge's inability to keep food even cool so I was about to add 2 fans in the upper cavity (mine intakes and exhausts out the side, not through the roof and when I pulled the outside vent covers off to add two computer fans and saw what the builder didn't do, I was not happy. NO insulation between the fridge cabinet and the enclosure at all and they forgot to add the Dometic required curved baffle at the top though they did install a cheap sleeve bearing fan that was doing nothing but circulating warm are from the boiler and HX throughout the space where the insulation should have been, but wasn't.

I trundled down to Lowes and bought a roll of unfaced pink stuff and a sheet of light gauge galvanized metal and headed home. Stuffed almost the entire roll of unfaced pink stuff between the outer cabinet and the fridge (wearing gloves and a face mask of course, the stuff is itchy). Once I stuffed the void, I went in my shop and sheared the galv sheet to size and roll formed it to the curve I needed to make a baffle for the top of the cooling unit to direct the air flow. The, I added 2 air bearing computer fans (250 cfm each) to the upper vent and used the already in place thermostatic switch to power them. Made a huge difference in the operation of the fridge, it actually refrigerated, what a concept. My issue (and why I'm going to a compressor fridge is) we mostly primitive camp, usually off road and it's extremely hard to get the fridge level enough to operate correctly. Not an issue with a compressor fridge and even though my Amish fridge actually works now, it still takes quite a while to cool down from ambient whereas a compressor fridge will cool down in a couple hours not a day or longer (depending on how hot it is outside).

We already own a Dometic Cool Box and it sits on the floor in the truck cab when we go camping and in my wife's car when she goes grocery shopping. She uses it to bring home frozen food without becoming unfrozen in the summer, we live 30 minutes from the grocery store. She don't even turn it on until she goes to go in the store and when she comes out and puts the frozen food inside, it stays frozen coming home and when we go camping, stuff we need to stay frozen go in it, like ice cream and you don't have to worry if it's frozen or turned to mush in an Amish fridge with it's temperature swings. I'm 100% sold on the Cool Box and I know it will be a winner in the TC as well. Not familiar with the other brands but I'm sure they are just as good so long as they employ the Waeco / Danfoss duty cycle compressor.

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 09/08/19 10:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fiberglass pushed hard to compact is loosing its R value.
You want good insulation, get polyurethane sheets, who come in different thickness at HD. Their R value is about 3 times the fiberglass.
Coolers are hard to judge.
We have 1 which we bought over 30 years ago. Very convenient with storage in the top for plates and utensils, but it looks old-fashion comparing to today's coolers. Still I was carrying frozen steaks in it, while having it in the cab and after 12hr trip the steaks were still frozen.
Newer coolers are nothing close.
When compressors by its own offer better efficiency, than absorption, there is much more to make efficient refrigerator.
I did test 2 years ago and my absorption fridge can come down to 0F (at night) in 100F temperatures (at day), so I am not looking for replacement.





SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

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Posted: 09/09/19 04:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would have used expanded foam block insulation, Lord knows I have plenty 3" left over from my in floor heating project I installed when I added on to the machine shop last year (PEX) but rigid foam, while nice, there was not enough room to get free access to the sides. Remember, it's not an open wall, just to access covers.

I sure do like floor heat though. it gets real cold here in the winter and a 65 degree floor is nice on the feet.

Your situation is different than mine is. You primarily camp in campgrounds where you have a pad or graded parking spot so levelling your TC is easier. My wife and I camp primitive all the time and it's rare that where I set down at, that the ground is level. That aspect alone makes a compressor fridge very attractive. If a Dometic compressor fridge works as well as the cool box we now have, it's a winner for us. Camping in the woods or a turnout is a lot different than a campground and why I always have my genny with me.

* This post was edited 09/09/19 04:22am by SidecarFlip *

Geewizard

E. Washington

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Posted: 09/09/19 06:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

Geewizard wrote:

996Pilot wrote:

When I replaced mine in my 2006 Outfitter Apex 8 I went with an Isotherm unit. Same exact footprint as my Nocold but 45% more refrigerator space. I had to play some tricks getting it into the camper but it was worth it.


I replaced mine in my 2004 Outfitter Apex 8 with the Tundra T42. The cutout was almost the same. I had to remove the door and frame to swap them out but no big deal. Absolutely worth it. I bought mine from Sure Marine Service in Seattle in about 2005.

Nice comparison chart: https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Refrigeration-Size-Comparison/


Excellent pricing on Dometic Marine units btw.


Yes, they have great prices.


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Geewizard

E. Washington

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Posted: 09/09/19 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip, which model of Demetic Cool Box do you have?

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