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 > My DC Compressor Fridge conversion in progress

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adamis

Northern California

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Posted: 09/06/19 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

996Pilot wrote:

When I replaced mine in my 2006 Outfitter Apex 8 I went with an Isotherm unit. Same exact footprint as my Nocold but 45% more refrigerator space. I had to play some tricks getting it into the camper but it was worth it.

SidecarFlip wrote:

Irregardless of images, this winter my Dometic ammmonia fridge is coming out and a 12/120 compressor fridge is going in but instead of the one like you have, I'm getting a pre packaged unit from either Panther or West Marine. Probably a Dometic cool box and my not so old fridge (3 years old) will go on CL.


What are the advantages of such a fridge and what unit did you purchase? Any pictures you can share?


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Geewizard

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Posted: 09/06/19 05:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

996Pilot wrote:

When I replaced mine in my 2006 Outfitter Apex 8 I went with an Isotherm unit. Same exact footprint as my Nocold but 45% more refrigerator space. I had to play some tricks getting it into the camper but it was worth it.


I replaced mine in my 2004 Outfitter Apex 8 with the Tundra T42. The cutout was almost the same. I had to remove the door and frame to swap them out but no big deal. Absolutely worth it. I bought mine from Sure Marine Service in Seattle in about 2005.

Nice comparison chart: https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Refrigeration-Size-Comparison/


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c.traveler2

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Posted: 09/07/19 08:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toddb, nice write up and a different approach of conversion of the existing refrigeration unit. Keep us updated on your progress for it look likes you still have some "bugs" to work out.

The "Dutch Aire" compressor shown in your photos look very much like the " Danfross" compressor with the same electronic control package, if it is so you have a good unit.

Until your posting I didn't know there were any compressor conversion units out there.

In 2013 I switched out my old RV refrigerator for a compressor type..Dometic CR1110 and have never regretted it, it's nice to reach in and pull out a cold one when it's over a hundred outside.

CR1110 Install

Geewizard.. Thanks for the link, I've book marked it.


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ScottG

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Posted: 09/07/19 08:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm curious about the 43 degree mark. A while back I watched a video on Youtube that suggested they couldn't get the temp down below a similar temperature but it was ambiguous.
Is 43 degrees all it had time to get down to or is that as low as it would go?

Also, you re-use all the original electronics right?

Thanks again for the thread,
Scott


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toddb

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Posted: 09/07/19 09:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry about the pictures, when I used an IMG tag they didn't work.

The compressor is Sikelan, secom knock off I guess. All the electronics stay. I get an AC failure though so I'll see if I can bypass that later.

I think the temp stall at 43 was due to the large temp delta with the outside temp so high, the comressor didn't cycle until I changed the temp setting. I didn't have the coach AC on. The evap temp was 35* with the IR gun.

I dislike the condenser fan, the mount blocks the fins and it makes a lot of noise. A better shroud would most likely reject more heat/lower the pressure and reduce compressor draw.

SidecarFlip

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Posted: 09/07/19 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

I am surprised that more RV manufacturers are NOT offering compressor refrigerators as a build option.

I think it is the same issue why truck manufacturers don't offer manual transmissions anymore.
Too many warranty claims, where idiots don't bother to read the manual and come with refrigerator complains after they got their batteries depleted.
Funny part, my vintage 1972 Prevost conversion had 12V compressor fridge and separate 12V compressor freezer, so the technology is not new at all.


Thats true but technology has made the old compressor fridges way more efficient. A standard fridge compressor is a power hog. The Waeco / Danfoss compressors aren't. Plus the Waeco / Danfoss units run on a duty cycle which means the compressor adjusts itself for ambient conditions whereas a conventional compressor runs flat out (high amperage draw) until the set temp is reached. A Waeco / Danfoss don't. It only runs 'hard enough' to maintain the set temp which means the amp draw is much less. In fact you can rum one in solar alone with a limited battery bank. The one I'm looking at, max draw is 6.5 amps at 100% duty cycle but less than 1.2 amps cycling.

I see some of the builders like Northstar are offering compressor fridges as an option and pop up builders like Hallmark, they come standard with the Amish unit as the option. Alaskan is also 100% compressor fridge

Main reason I want one besides the tepid cooling of an Amish fridge os the fact that a compressor fridge can run at up to 30 degrees out of level in any plane, Very important for me as I mostly camp off road and levelling the outfit can be a royal PITA at times. Sometimes I can be so far out of plumb that I have to release the TC and level it with the jacks. With a compressor fridge, so long as you don't roll out of bed. it's level enough.


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Geewizard

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Posted: 09/07/19 12:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I easily run my Tundra compressor fridge on my solar panels and 2-100Ah batteries....which is one of the reasons I got it.

ScottG

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Posted: 09/07/19 03:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the info.
It would be interesting to hear if it will drop it to 40 and keep it there. Also if you start seeing any ice build up on the fins.

Scott

Kayteg1

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Posted: 09/07/19 05:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

technology has made the old compressor fridges way more efficient. A standard fridge compressor is a power hog. The Waeco / Danfoss compressors aren't. Plus the Waeco / Danfoss units run on a duty cycle which means the compressor adjusts itself for ambient conditions whereas a conventional compressor runs flat out (high amperage draw) until the set temp is reached..


I've been repairing refrigerators as hobby and I know that about 20 years ago inverters come to the designs.
I actually had one of those $6000 household fridges, that somebody sold for the value of stainless steel on it, becouse inverter blow.
I spend like $150 on new inverter board and fridge worked again.
But IMHO in refrigeration inverter only adds cost and complexity.
Food doesn't care if the temperature fluctuate 2 or even 3 degrees, while inverter board become weak point in the design.
Had to be my luck that last year inveter board on my household washer blow as well? The replacement retails at $450 and spending time for net search I bought it only slightly cheaper.
Than this spring I was restoring Jacuzzi that I bought with house in Las Vegas. Guess what was wrong with it???? Electronic board, that become obsolete.
When in washer soft motor start has it advantages, I am not big fun on that technology.





StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 09/07/19 06:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

The one I'm looking at, max draw is 6.5 amps at 100% duty cycle but less than 1.2 amps cycling.



is there any stats on how many Ah one of these fridges would draw over a 24 hour period? would be nice to see something say at a 40 degree cabnet temp in 90 degree weather parked in the sun it used so many Ah.

Steve


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