looking to get into the camper world

[StirCrazy]

Hi, so I have a large 5th wheel but I am now thinking of buying a truck camper in addition to the 5th so we can access parks with smaller spots or for when we go to the island to lower the ferry cost and have our own bed with us.

I am looking at different options, I want a light one with a toilet in it, don't have to have a shower but would like a toilet with a holding tank.

now I am not sure if I should bite the bullet and get a newer one from a dealer, or get a 4to 6000.00 cdn ranged one privately , or spend less and get one for that needs work and just fix it up.

also what should I be looking at when I am looking at them, any specific things to watch out for with a camper

Steve

[noteven]

Truck camper rigs has better ground clearance than same lengthClass B’s n C’s, but less overhead clearance.

Put yer rotten fruit away I didn’t say one was “better” than another. Stay calm...

[ppine]

A cab over bed is the greatest thing about a truck camper. It is like a fort when I was a kid. I sleep like a baby. Much like aboard ship with a diesel running.

Most people don't use their primary RV enough to justify the cost of having two of them.

If I want to travel light I bring a good tent. I have several of them for different types of trips.

[StirCrazy]

ajriding wrote:


If you are looking to fit in tight spaces (I thought you meant narrow dirt roads covered with low trees), then a TC is not much smaller than any class C.

If you want a full size TC, then the two you mentioned would be what I would look for, consider nothing else…

no tight spaces as in not big enough for my 39 foot 5th wheel lol. I also want to have minimal hang over on the back of the truck, I do have a ford 1 ton long box so I was thinking a 8 to 10 foot camper. when using the ferry anything over 20 feet is 6.50/foot so a couple feet would only add 13 buck each way to the same price as a small car going across.

Steve

[ajriding]

StirCrazy wrote:
the other thought was a used bigfoot or northern light but I am now sure how hard that would be to work on.
Steve

If you have the money for those then yes. Either is nice. They look the same to me.
I have a fiberglass TC as well. How hard to work on? Not any harder.
You will not be accessing the walls from the outside ever, unless you want to do fiberglass repair and can match a gel coat.
Unless you crash it the roof and walls should be trouble free for the life of it.
Fiberglass campers do tend to get sagging roofs.
Keep them waxed.

If you are looking to fit in tight spaces (I thought you meant narrow dirt roads covered with low trees), then a TC is not much smaller than any class C.

If you want a full size TC, then the two you mentioned would be what I would look for, consider nothing else…

[burningman]

Getting a Bigfoot or Northern Lite is a very good idea. They’re hard to find a cheap deal on, for good reasons.
“Basement model” campers have much roomier cabovers because the floor and whole rig is built up higher, resulting in a much taller cabover area.
The Northern Lites have bigger beds than the Bigfoots.

[Kayteg1]

The way most TC are build is that they take empty shell, install wall panels, ceiling and flooring and then put interior walls and cabinet in it.
So you can spend lot of time trying to cut to shape overlaying panels, but for original panels removal and insulation replacement you'd have to gutter whole camper.
Unless it is very old camper with fiberglass insulation, it most likely will have Styrofoam. You can upgrade it with neoprene, but that will add only a notch to R-value.
Than all campers leave factory with lot of holes in them, so sealing the cord compartment, basement drafts and such can be big improvement.
What you want to avoid is delamination. When you look at small angle at outside walls, they suppose to be flat. When you see "bubbles" on them - that is sign that dryrot is under the skin and that is a cancer.

[StirCrazy]

if I do get a creepie one that needs work, I figured it would be an over the winter project. can most stuff be fixed from the inside or is it better to take the metal siding off and work from the outside. I was thinking of modernizing the inside with new wall panels (35 bucks for a 4x8 sheet here) and upgrading all the insulation. We like to camp most of the year so good insulation would be a must.

the other thought was a used bigfoot or northern light but I am now sure how hard that would be to work on.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

PNW_Steve wrote:
I have never had trouble with close spaces until I tried to sleep in a cabover bed.

I borrowed one for a trip. The first night on the road I crawled into the bed over the cab and tried to sleep. Instead I wound up with a bit of an anxiety attack. I wound up sleeping on the dinette bed for the rest of the trip.

I see enough campers on the road that I am sure that I am weird. I would suggest that you try one out before you buy just in case you are weird too. 🙂

haha, the bunks I slept in while I was in the Navy were much smaller than any camper I have see. plus we have used one which a friend owned, so not worried about the cabover, but a good point to think about.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

Lwiddis wrote:
Your concern involves lowering the ferry costs? How many crossing would you need to break even?

I posted that was one of the reasons for a camper, the other is so we can camp in places I cant fit my 39 foot 5th in (lots of small sites around here) the ferry with my 5th is over 700 bucks return with a truck camper it would be 180.00 so a substantial savings which would let us go several times a year with out having to rely on friend for accommodation or paying for hotels.

the more important of the reasons is to access camping in smaller remote areas.

Steve

[ajriding]

dhull wrote:
When we rent a houseboat on Dale Hollow lake in Tennessee it's gray water goes directly into the lake!

I would love to go swimming in that lake near your waste. I'm sure this is not legal in TN.

[noteven]

Hi StirCrazy,

While this thread goes off the rails for a while arguing ferry fare economics, gas vs deezil vs single rear wheel, and dumping gray water....

I’m figuring that maybe you want some truck camper information-

Have a look at the on line magazine Truck Camper Magazine

[dhull]

When we rent a houseboat on Dale Hollow lake in Tennessee it's gray water goes directly into the lake!

[ajriding]

If you can find a used Alaskan camper then you are gold.

I personally would run from the Heco lift system, which is a rack and pinion track that lifts the roof using long torsion bars that are at the ceiling. Find one with the roof that you just push up by hand.

You will be in a tent as far as noise and insulation goes.

The popup TCs are great for fuel economy, getting in tight areas and all …

You will likely mostly see cassette toilets, and this is what you want.

You will need to have Torklift mounts or some way to attach the TC to the truck.

If you fine one with a North to South bed (the top bunk has you lay head towards front of truck, feet towards rear instead of sideways) you will have more room and comfort.

[Kayteg1]

I started RV over 30 years ago and at the time RV have been dumping gray water on the grounds.
Some TT did not have holding tanks at all and unless you had a tote ,that was the only way.
I think it was abuse that some people always do, where it was more dumped than just gray water, who made restrictions on it.
I've spend some time researching recycling water, when in California.
Gray water (real gray water) it is safe for vegetation watering when done right away. It is holding it in the tank for more than 24 hr what grows the bacteria and make it hazardous.
So keep your tank dumped on daily bases 😉
On my recent trip to Alaska, I was considering one of the ferry, but some of them charge as much as $40/ft.
My TC with front generator and rear steps is reaching 30'
I DROVE