Refrigerator is not switching to Propane

[RVROSE]

We have 50 amp service at our house so I did not check the refrigerator working on propane. We were leaving for a trip and when I unplugged the 50 amp chord and stowed it, I noticed the refrigerator did not switch over to propane. Wanting to get on the road, I started the generator and ran it so that the refrigerator could continue to work on electricity. (We also got to enjoy the roof top a/c units as well.)

Now we are home and I better get something done to get that whole thing working again. But, what do you think it is that happened and is there something I can do to fix it?

[RVROSE]

Problem with the refrigerator not switching to propane is solved thanks to DrewE of Vermont. His response on 8/27 reminded me to look at the battery shut off switch. Sure enough, it was OFF. Amazing, as soon as I switched it to ON, everything worked correctly, again. I was looking for something a lot more complicated than flipping an obvious switch that was always right in front of me. I appreciate all the suggestions and responses. I knew that someone in the RV.net world would come to my aide. Thanks DrewE, your assistance was the kick in the brain that was needed.

[Old-Biscuit]

RVROSE wrote:
Original poster again,
I followed the seven steps suggested by ItsyRV. I think the problem is, I don't have any 12v service in the RV. Looked at the battery and the cells are full. (Since it is plugged into 50 amp receptacle I check the fluid level in them quite often and top off when necessary.).

To get back to the refrigerator problem, following ItsyRV steps, the auto light went out when I unplugged. House lights also don't function as does the water pump. I don't see any evidence of the 12v circuit working anywhere in the rig. Now what?

Got DC when on SHore AC Power otherwise you would not have the AUTO Light

Then you loose DC when you unplug shore power.
Battery should be supplying DC System when NO AC available
EIther you have the battery disconnect turned OFF (salesman switch), the battery POS cable in-line fuse (DC Circuit breaker) is BAD or battery is shot

[ferndaleflyer]

I finally got to check and it says AC/AU/PR. I set it on AU and it flashed AC-AU so I unhooked the AC and it switched to AU-PR. I left it alone and it in fact ran 24 hours on propane. Hooked the AC back up and it changed to AU-AC and is now working on AC. Sorry I hijacked someone elses thread and thanks to those who helped me.

[DrewE]

What is the voltage at the battery? Just because the cells have electrolyte doesn't mean they're good or charged.

Anyhow, assuming the battery is at all responsive, the problem would seem to need to be an open connection between the battery and the DC distribution panel. When plugged in to shore power, the converter is supplying 12V power and the rest of the DC distribution system is working. The first thing to check is the battery shutoff switch (often called the "salseman switch" for reasons that I'm really not entirely clear on). Try cycling it off and on.

If that's not it, you need to track down where the battery connection is lost. It may be a wire that's come loose, or a blown fuse at the battery. Check the ground as well as the +12V connections. Also make sure the battery cables themselves are good; I've seen a couple of battery cables where the outside looked more or less okay, at least at first glance, but the actual conductors had corroded away to nothingness within.

[RVROSE]

Original poster again,
I followed the seven steps suggested by ItsyRV. I think the problem is, I don't have any 12v service in the RV. Looked at the battery and the cells are full. (Since it is plugged into 50 amp receptacle I check the fluid level in them quite often and top off when necessary.).

To get back to the refrigerator problem, following ItsyRV steps, the auto light went out when I unplugged. House lights also don't function as does the water pump. I don't see any evidence of the 12v circuit working anywhere in the rig. Now what?

[Old-Biscuit]

Control Panel
On/Off Switch
AC Indicator Lamp
Gas Indicator Lamp
AUTO Indicator Lamp (above Mode Button)
Mode Button to select AUTO or GAS
CHECK Light (if gas fails)
Temp Indicating Lamps (1-5)
Temp Selector Button


Fridge ON
AUTO Lamp ON
AC Indicator Lamp ON (if plugged into AC Power) (Gas Lamp OFF)
Gas Indicator Lamp ON (if NOT plugged into AC Power)(AC Lamp OFF)


Fridge ON
AUTO OFF
AC Lamp OFF (can't manually select AC)
GAS Lamp ON

[down_home]

Ours has AC, AO and LP.
On AO, only, it switches automatically.

[ferndaleflyer]

Doug this is a new frig put in last year and I just noticed this----I may not have had it on the auto setting--if it has one. I'll check tomorrow. Thanks

[ItsyRV]

Try this.

Turn the refrigerator completely off as if in storage.

Plug the power cord into shore power.

Turn the Refrigerator "ON" and set the switch to "Auto" mode.

The refrigerator should now be running on AC.

Now without touching any switches, turn off the shore power to the RV.

Did the AC light go out?

If so, wait a minute or so and look at the panel again, did the "gas" light come on?

The way you're describing it is somewhat confusing so just go through the listed steps and let us know what happens.

[Airdaile]

Turn it to GAS and go outside and listen to the bottom of the fridge vent. It should click a few times and you should hear the burner light. If this does not happen, the CHECK light should be on. If that happens, you need to diagnose the issue with the burner. Two common things that happen to the burner.

1. Rust falls out of the vent stack onto the burner and clogs it.
2. Spiders build a nest in the burner tube.

[DrewE]

I think you're misunderstanding the auto light. It indicates the fridge is turned on and operating in automatic mode, not that it's operating in electric mode. If there's no electricity in auto mode it switches to gas operation, but it's still in automatic mode rather than gas-only mode.

In short, it sounds to me like the controls are working as designed; and assuming the gas burner is functioning properly, it is in fact working on gas in auto mode.

[RVROSE]

I'm the original poster with the refrigerator problem. Thanks to all who responded. I've gone out to the rig and have been turning things ON and OFF according to your suggestions.

Brand: Dometic. Model. RM 2862

All 3 burners on the stove are working.
The furnace is working.

On the fridge, I turned the auto light OFF and the gas light came ON. Currently I am testing to see if the fridge works by putting some water in a cup in the freezer. I'll know by tomorrow if it is frozen or not.

As soon as I put the auto ON, the system switches to electric. That makes sense. When I unplug the 50 amp cord, and put the auto light ON, the gas light foes OFF. If I leave the auto light OFF, the gas light comes ON.

So, it seems that if I'm on a trip, put the auto light OFF and the gas goes ON. Then I don't have to run the generator. When I get to a campground and plug in, it will switch to electric

I think I've reported everything correctly.

[DrewE]

What brand and model of fridge is this?

The Dometic fridges, or at least some of them, have a little propane shutoff valve in the burner assembly that looks more like a setscrew than anything. If it's shut off, rather obviously the fridge won't work on propane and the check light will come on. It's one thing to check, though far from the only possible cause of trouble. I don't know if other brands also have a shutoff valve.

[dougrainer]

doxiemom11 wrote:
Ours will not switch manually, but if we set it on "auto" and unplug, it automatically switches to propane and runs. We always leave our set on "auto" so it will do that if the power goes out.

ALL RV refers will switch manually. Post Brand and Model of refer and I will post how to switch. Doug