โAug-22-2019 11:29 AM
โNov-29-2019 09:01 AM
โNov-28-2019 11:01 AM
JaxDad wrote:magicbus wrote:JaxDad wrote:
Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I canโt recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
If you open the drivers door of your car youโll see a plate that certifies that it meets the requirements of the FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards) as required by law.
Has anyone ever asked you about it? No, I doubt anyone has, or ever will. Itโs just taken for granted that your [insert make here] is compliant.
Ditto your RV, because itโs required by law for all itโs just taken for granted that your [insert make here] is compliant also. So no, nobody is likely to ask about it.
But since you asked, as for campground rules, not seeing them, or they being enforced by unknowing (or uncaring) employees, does not mean they do not exist. Below is just one example of the many Iโve seen, at a park I frequent myself. A friend who did a converted cargo trailer, finally sold it because he was being refused a site so often.
Click here and see Rule # 24.4 in the middle of page 11.
As for State laws, in Texas for example, under the Transportation Code itโs illegal to even tow a trailer on a public road if it has a built in propane system unless it meets NFPA 1192 standards and bears proof of same.
In California the Health and Safety Code - HSC Div 13, PART 2 , CHAPTER 4, Section 18027.3.
"h) It is unlawful for any person to do either of the following:
(2) Alter or convert, or cause to be altered or converted, any recreational vehicle in a manner that is inconsistent with ANSI Standard No. A119.2 or A119.5 or the NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles when the recreational vehicle is used, occupied, sold, or offered for sale within this state."
I just donโt understand why itโs so difficult to understand that there are life safety laws.
โNov-26-2019 06:43 PM
T18skyguy wrote:
If your going to get a tankless get the Truma. If you do a lot of boondocking or desert camping it's pointless to have it. I have a Girard, it works well, but with any tankless you operate differently than your home shower.First you need acceptable water pressure and flow. Buy a good adjustable water pressure valve and keep the pressure at 40-60 psi which works good for me. Set the temperature on the thermostat to 100 or so, then turn the hot water on full. You don't need the cold water cause the shower temp is set at the thermostat. Mine works fine with this method. A good adjustable quality water pressure valve is a Renator. You can find it on amazon. My Girard will run for 20 minutes, then it cycles off to protect the electronics from too much heat.
โAug-25-2019 06:16 AM
magicbus wrote:JaxDad wrote:
Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I canโt recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
โAug-24-2019 05:02 PM
โAug-24-2019 04:40 PM
JaxDad wrote:Really like someone is going to check ?????
Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
โAug-24-2019 04:37 PM
DrewE wrote:We have a Suburban in our Cedar Creek. Very happy with it. Comes with a learning curve. Turn the hot open all the way and regulate the temp with the cold. Otherwise it will cycle on and off. No complaints here.
I have yet to hear of anyone really happy with an RV tankless water heater. Maybe there are some people I haven't heard of yet; I am certainly not all-knowing. But they seem to have trouble with maintaining anything like an even temperature with the rather widely varying flow rates that are common in an RV.
I believe you mean 2.5 gpm, not 2.5 gph; 2.5 gph is a small trickle, a third of a cup per minute.
โAug-24-2019 01:51 PM
magicbus wrote:JaxDad wrote:
Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I canโt recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
โAug-23-2019 04:19 PM
โAug-23-2019 12:28 PM
JaxDad wrote:
Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
โAug-23-2019 10:33 AM
โAug-23-2019 07:16 AM
paddykernahan wrote:
I plumbed a line with a "Y" and valves from the hot water low point drain back to the fresh water tank drain.
โAug-23-2019 06:43 AM
ajriding wrote:
I wanted to have one but then did the research.
It will work if you are hooked up to a water source such that when showering you can let the water run the whole time, and are great if you plan to take long showers and waste waterโฆ
Bad if you want to conserve water if not hooked up. As soon as you stop the flow the water in the tankless gets hotter, then when you resume you get that hotter water, and when you let it run longer the temp goes back down. No steady temp is possible with the military shower method. Unfortunately the hot water heater is the only way for this. I wish I had a two gallon water heater as I take 1 gallon showersโฆ
In the summer I have learned to just take cold showers. This helps a lot to save water since I boondock it is important. After two showers you get used to cold water and it is not different than washing your hands in cold water.
โAug-23-2019 06:33 AM