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 > Level on sloped campsites. How? Unique to 5er's

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DutchmenSport

Indiana

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Can you put blocks under the frame near jacks, lower onto blocks, and add blocks under jacks?


Bingo.... someone understands! I did not think of this at all. Yes, this would work, I just need to drag along a stack of lumber enough to reach the ground to the frame.

For everyone else, I don't think you understand what's going on. The site is sloped downhill, with the rear high and front low. When hitched to the truck, there is about about 8 inches of clearance from the bottom of the jack pad to the ground. I use a 4x6 blocks under all my jacks... very solid. It doesn't matter how much lumber I have, or how far I can drop the extensions in the jacks, it's only got about 8 inches of clearance to the ground.

So, I place the block under the jack for support, then drop the extension. On this slope, it only let me drop the extensions 3 holes. I then raise the trailer slightly and unhitch.

I then attempt to level front to back. But I can't because the front landing gear reaches it max length and then the leveling system errors out. I can't raise it any higher.

The initial problem, these jacks are low to the ground to begin with. If they were installed higher, I could get more lumber under them, or even extend them longer by dropping into the 8th or 9th or 10th hole. But the ground clearance is simply not there.

The other solution is to raise the entire jack assembly, but if I do that, then the foot pads would actually be under the skin of the trailer and not accessible.

Rscoody has the right idea, and I think understand the problem. Here again, the initial problem is the small distance from the bottom of the jack foot to the ground .... when hitched to the truck.

On fairly level ground, this is no issues. And it's not an issue when the front is uphill.

DutchmenSport

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Can you put blocks under the frame near jacks

I just measured the distance from the ground to the frame. Currently the distance is 28 inches on the longest side. So, a stack of lumber 24 inches would probably do the job, as that would not hyper extend the front landing gear. Lower onto the stack, then retract jacks and put more lumber under the jacks and raise again.

Thanks again. The more I think about this, the better I like it. Now .... lumber (ugg!).... or 2 steel cages or frames 24 inches high capable of supporting 1500 pounds each.

CarnationSailor

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If there were no restrictions, what would be the distance the jack travels from fully retracted to fully extended (ignoring the extendible section)?


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cougar28

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've camp at a few sites like that they just scrape off the grass and put some gravel down and call it good. Now I try and stay away from those and the stack them in like cord wood places! Poorly built camp grounds and I'm sure whoever built them never camped in a TT or 5th wheel. I see no reason that you would put the power supply on that side.That just goes to show they didn't have a clue about building campsites.


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DutchmenSport

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CarnationSailor wrote:

If there were no restrictions, what would be the distance the jack travels from fully retracted to fully extended (ignoring the extendible section)?


Just measured, since they are completely extended right now ... 13.5 inches. That the length they extract. The inserts can add another 8 or 9 inches in total length, but not sure, I've never had the trailer high enough to completely slip them out of the sleeve. So, really don't know how long they are.

DutchmenSport

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cougar28 wrote:

...That just goes to show they didn't have a clue about building campsites.


I am currently at Chain 'O Lakes State Park in Northern Indiana, near the Fort Wayne area. This is one of the most beloved state parks in Indiana, maybe second to Brown County. Its a well established campground and state park, been here for a zillion years or more. And it's packed full this week-end. 50/30/20 amp power, clean, very very well maintained, and lots of mature trees everywhere. No, nothing shoddy about this park. But it does have some sites on slopes.

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Question, when backed into the site before unhooking, how close was the fully retracted landing gear from the ground? Your pinned leg extensions are hardly extended at all in the picture. When ready to unhook with the legs fully retracted, was that all that the pinned extensions could be extended?


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Lantley

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cougar28 wrote:

I see no reason that you would put the power supply on that side.That just goes to show they didn't have a clue about building campsites.


If you were paying attention you would realize that Dutch's rig has doors on both sides of the RV! Therefore the pedestal is configured properly, it's the additional door that creates the illusion that something is weird


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RobWNY

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Posted: 08/17/19 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If connected to the truck and the jacks were fully retracted including having the pads anchored in the first hole rather than the third hole, how many inches is it to the ground? This is just my preference but when I'm traveling, I have my jacks and pads fully retracted. I estimate how high or low I'll need to have the nose once unhooked and put the lego blocks (in my case lynx levelers) under the pads as high as I need to before lowering the jacks to make contact to raise or lower the nose. Sometimes I have to pull the pins to lower the pads and sometimes I don't. If you did that, you could raise your nose approximately 13 inches from where the trailer is while connected to the truck if needed.


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Lantley

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Posted: 08/17/19 10:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dutch you need a set of these
Harbor freight 12 ton jacks


[image]

These will support the weight of the trailer while you place your blocking and extend the legs.
I used these jack to support my trailer when one of mt jack legs failed. They are very stable.
If you are running into this issue frequently, they are a good tool to have in your arsenal. They will be more stable and more convenient vs. carrying a lumber yard of blocks.

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