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Excessive receiver/shank play on new truck

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Have a new-to-us '12 GMC 2500HD and tow a TT with Reese DC WDH. I am guessing hitch play has been discussed ad nauseum. The truck has a heavy duty trailering package option with a 2" receiver insert.

There sure seems to be a lot of excess play. I measured the size difference between receiver and shank to be over 1/16". I don't care about vertical movement, but I have to wonder about side-side movement and the effect on the WDH or shank or receiver wear.

Wondering if a shim is available or maybe I could make one up from sheet metal? Or is this amount of play something to just forget about? Have a Blue Ox immobilizer clamp but won't fit on the GM receiver tho. Not sure it would work anyway with that amount of play.
15 REPLIES 15

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
VoodooMedicineMan wrote:
You need something like this.


Here's another version I had considered buying.

Link
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lynnmor wrote:
myredracer wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.
Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.


The shank will be 2-1/2" where it fits the receiver, and the vertical area will be the same 2" to fit your ball mount. So yes, it will work.

If you weld and still use the sleeve, note that the sleeve will be free to move as much as the clearance allows. That puts the fore and aft loading more than 1/4" apart, wearing the holes and possibly bending the pin.
Decided we're getting a new 2-1/2" shank. I don't want to mess around with a band aid approach and end up having issues. Thx, you made it obvious what to do.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.
Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.


The shank will be 2-1/2" where it fits the receiver, and the vertical area will be the same 2" to fit your ball mount. So yes, it will work.

If you weld and still use the sleeve, note that the sleeve will be free to move as much as the clearance allows. That puts the fore and aft loading more than 1/4" apart, wearing the holes and possibly bending the pin.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
My 2.5" shank eventually rusted into the receiver and no longer slops around. Just takes a little time and salty roads.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

LarryJM
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver,thus magnifying the movement and doing more damage to the receiver.

I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless,as is all that have been mentioned here.

Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.

Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.


I agree 100% and have been using the Hitch Vice for over 10 years with EXCELLENT results. IT SIMPLY WORKS where others play a distant catch up and fall short.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
SidecarFlip wrote:
Just lay some weld bead on the shank and grind to a snug fit. Issue solved.
That's an idea! I have a MIG welder but it's only 135 amps and not enough heat. There is a welder guy nearby I use sometimes that could do it for cheap.

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
blownstang01 wrote:
This is the one you need Link
That's the one we have now. The way GM has the insert tight up against the 2-1/2" opening and there's no lip for the immobilizer to "catch" onto.

VoodooMedicineMan wrote:
You need something like this.
Same thing with this one too.

Either would be a cheaper solution that a new shank tho.

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Just lay some weld bead on the shank and grind to a snug fit. Issue solved.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.
Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver,thus magnifying the movement and doing more damage to the receiver.

I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless,as is all that have been mentioned here.

Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.

Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.

blownstang01
Explorer
Explorer
This is the one you need Link

VoodooMedicineM
Explorer
Explorer
You need something like this.
Bill and Joey the dog