Trailer Life Magazine Open Roads Forum: F 53 chassis rear differential S110
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 > F 53 chassis rear differential S110

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Bill Hamilton

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Posted: 06/09/19 07:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recently posted questions about tires and thank everyone for their thoughts. When I got my new tries (i removed the wheel/tire assemblies myself and took them to the shop) I found that I have a leak in my differential at the hub. Although I have not began the process of repairing this, I plan on doing it myself. I have been doing some investigating but cant find much information on replacing the bearing and or seal. I know a large socket is needed and I dont mind purchasing the needed tools that I cont already have. So my question is have any of you tackled this project on your own and if so do you have any insight and or specs and drawings of the process?


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theoldwizard1

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Posted: 06/09/19 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am FAR from an expert on this, but I thought it was like every other full float rear axle. The nut used to tension the outer and inner bearings, just like and old fashion front hub with tapered bearings. The nut is held in place by a some kind of retainer. Once the retainer(s) are removed the nut can usually be spun off by hand.

DFord

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Posted: 06/09/19 07:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you been able to find any information about the torque required on that pinion nut? You might need a very strong impact wrench to loosen it and tighten it again. I cheater won't do much good under the MH limited room.


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Home Skillet

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Posted: 06/09/19 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You will need a special tool to remove the hub retaining nut.
The tool releases the locking washer.

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snowfitter

North Webster, In.

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Posted: 06/10/19 04:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2006 F53 with the same rear-end you have. You will only need the special large socket to fit the lock nut and then the same socket fits the inner nut. I had to change both on my seals because they started leaking. I did buy a large seal installer from Harbor Freight and the seals I ordered from Advanced Auto Parts on line. I ordered the socket online and its a 3 1/4" part #1909. The only problem I had was installing the new seals was if you beat on it to much the inner spring can pop out. Be sure to check them after you install it. My son had smaller hands and was able to reach in and pop it back in place. You will need to buy a quart of rear end grease. Its synthetic and I got it from Walmart. What I was able to find on line is when you are done and install the hub back on you tighten the nuts down to 90 ft lbs and spin the hub then back the nuts off and retighten to 30 lbs. Its going to take all day to do both or do one per day so you have more time to drink beer. Good luck because you can do it.

Bill Hamilton

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Posted: 06/10/19 06:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thank you so much!

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 06/10/19 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

An empty 5 gallon bucket it your friend. When you slide the hub assembly off, tip the outer end down in to the bucket. The rotor will set on the lip. No grease all over every thing. The seal is facing you.

Richard


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DFord

Near St Louis, MO

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Posted: 06/10/19 08:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What's the gross axle weight on your rear axle? I wonder if all the pinion nuts use that tool?

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