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Axle blocks for raising trailer

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
I'm looking at a new 5th wheel that unfortunately only comes with 15' wheels. I converted my current trailer to 16" wheels, but to allow for sufficient wheel well tire clearance, I had to weld a 2" square tube to the frame to raise the trailer.

Not really wanting to go through this process again I ran across a leveling kit using blocks above the axle. The product is made by trailerblocks.com. I would not need to raise more that 1 - 2".

These look like they are made very well and just wondering if any of you have used these.
18 REPLIES 18

routemaster
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, I used never grease bushes that they sell and sill going well today.
The reason bolted the cross member so as to be able to drop the belly.
The holles are dilled with no clearance keep a snug fit.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
routemaster wrote:


This is how I made mine hope it helps.


routemaster,

thanks for the drawings. Makes good sense now. I can tell by your design and workmanship you obviously know what you are doing and have the talent and equipment to build it.

With the the Correct Track install do you feel the square tubing from one hanger to the other is absolutely necessary?

I know it would be beneficial, and as I have mentioned, I have it on my current trailer (no correct track hangers). It's going to be really costly to have someone fabricate it like you did.

One big downside I see with the Correct Track is that it doesn't look like you can use wet bolts with them.

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
I did a 1-800 to Dexter axle on suspension blocks use.
Answer came from John saying Dexter didn't recommend suspension blocks on multi axle trailer suspensions.
When I was on the road I saw results of others using suspension blocks on a enclosed trailer and two GN flatdeck trailers. In all cases the long U bolts broke on one end of the axle letting that end of the axle swing back under trailing axles.
Not only are trailer axles subjected to rotational braking forces but the big impact is side stresses as the tires side scrub on sharp turns on pavement. Some thing trucks don't have.
The sub frame is the safest and best method of raising a heavy multi axle trailer.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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routemaster
Explorer
Explorer
You know I picked up my new Chevy at the time and then the E,pulled her to Oxnard to the RV park up the ramp from road then down..started to make the turn into the space and made a nice radial curve mark under the chin.The bed sides by the tail gate started the damage.So the RV Park is were I installed the Correct Track,off to HF for axle stands and HD for the 9/16 drill.
Ref coins they move the axle a 1/4ins cant see why one cant buy 3x3x1/4 plate and move the hole what ever you want.
Den.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

routemaster
Explorer
Explorer
I bought my 2ins longer shocks as well.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

Veebyes
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bought the correct track system to correct slight alighnment issues. As warned, raised the trailer 2". Now I have to get longer shocks.
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routemaster
Explorer
Explorer



This something else that I have had made up but never used them.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

routemaster
Explorer
Explorer


This is how I made mine hope it helps.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
routemaster wrote:


This what I did to raise my E up 2ins also made a cross brace to help to stop sway.


I can't tell much from your picture. Can you describe what you did please?

dryfly
Explorer
Explorer
Retired JSO wrote:
You will be way ahead of the game by cutting the hangers off and welding the square tubing to the frame. Then re install the hangers with a 1 1/2” tube welded perpendicular to the frame from hanger to hanger. You accomplish the height issues along with the frame flex you will get when turning sharply.


As I stated in my second post this is what I did on my current trailer. Would like to keep it more simple if possible, and that's why considering blocks. At the time I did the modifications on my trailer Lippert would not warranty the frame if any welding to the frame was done unless their technician did it.

The Correct Track system concerns me. Adding extra length to hangers puts too much stress on them. There is an interesting video on YouTube showing the stress this system generates while going down the road.

I've read lots of good and bad comments about blocks but I'm having a hard time understanding why 2" or less blocks would be an issue. If it were used on an axle that experienced a lot of torque, such as a vehicle drive axle, I could see why it would eventually fail. On a trailer the only torque would be from hard braking.

routemaster
Explorer
Explorer


This what I did to raise my E up 2ins also made a cross brace to help to stop sway.
2017 Landmark Arlington 365
2015 Silverado LTZ 3500 c/c LWB.

Retired_JSO
Explorer
Explorer
You will be way ahead of the game by cutting the hangers off and welding the square tubing to the frame. Then re install the hangers with a 1 1/2” tube welded perpendicular to the frame from hanger to hanger. You accomplish the height issues along with the frame flex you will get when turning sharply.

2naEagle
Explorer
Explorer
dryfly wrote:
I can see issues with blocks if raised too high, or if blocks not of high quality. I would be hesitant to raise a trailer using the lower set of hanger holes without additional support.



If the lower set of hanger holes will give you what you need you can put the X-factor on it also. I believe that all trailers need some kind of crossmembers on it.
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garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III