Beginner Trailer Leveling Questions

[BeerBrewer]

Let me start by apologizing for all of the dumb questions that I've been asking.

As the "pick up our new trailer day" nears the number of questions/concerns grows! I was going thru my "still need to buy for the RV" list and came across stuff needed to level the trailer. So I started looking at all of the different ways to level a trailer.

Before I get into what type of leveling blocks to buy etc, I'm wondering how off level most campground campsites are? How high do you typically need to raise the trailer (side to side)? Do I bring enough levers to raise the trailer 4", 5", 6", etc.?? I just don't know. Obviously, when you boondock all bets are off.

What type of leveling blocks do you folks use? I see some use plastic Lego like blocks, some use plastic ramps, some use wooden boards. Is one better than another? Pros and cons? Do the plastic lego like blocks hold up and how many should we carry? I've seen people use wooden boards with and without putting slanted edges or them. Does anyone use the Hopkins kit, where you attach plastic pieces to the wooden boards making it easier to drive up and keep from driving off? Does anyone use the curved levelers made by Andersen and others? These seem interesting, but I was wondering how well they work and what happens if you ride too far and fall off them? How easily does the trailer tires climb these? I can see them acting like skis and sliding me across the campsite.

Does anyone use the electronic leveler like Level Mate Pro, Revo Leveler or Hopkins RV Smart Level? Are these worthwhile investments? I like the fact that the Level Mate Pro has an App that you can use in the truck.

I know that you aren't supposed to lift the trailer with the stabilizer jacks, but I was wondering if there was a limit to how far they should be lowered? I assume that I should buy a some square leveling block to put underneath, but I'm not sure how many to buy. Is one enough or should I figure more?

What happens if we get a flat tire? Should I bring an extra scissor jack or get one the curved gadgets that you put under one tire to lift the other?

Lastly, I'm sorry for all the dumb questions.

Bob

[sgfrye]

NMDriver2 wrote:
Most camp sites will only be 2-4 inches off level side to side. Rarely (2-4 times in 15 yrs) have I needed more than that. Most of the time, in a commercial park, the pad was level or only a inch or two off. A little shovel work can help in even a bad site.

Keep it simple. Start with four or five 2x8x12 planks with beveled ends and two or three 1x8x12. They will last longer if you glue and screw a 1/4 inch chip board or similar composite to them to avoid cracking and splitting.

Carry a bottle jack and a shovel to change tires. There will be times when the axle will be to close to the ground, after a flat, and you will need to dig a hole for the jack. The shovel is good for other things around the camp site and can even help getting you level.

Generally the taller the stabilizers are the more wobble you will get. I try to lower them as little as possible and carry spare leveling boards just for the stabilizers to land on.

i second all of this. don't forget to chock tires.

[Jebby14]

2 weeks ago (I camp mostly in Ontario provincial parks) I had 3 2x10a under the drivers side to get level side to side and my tongue nearly on the ground and a giant stack of leveling blocks under the rear stabilizers. lumber is cheap. carry enough.

[opnspaces]

SoundGuy, I love your system. No I would never use it as my chocking is different, but I can totally see the fun in setting up camp. Then again I'm one of those rare people who actually enjoy setting up camp a specific way and don't focus on how fast I can get it done.

To the OP......
My system is the best. Why, well because it's my system and therefore it's better than anybody else's. 😛

First and foremost just get the trailer and go camping a few times. After that you'll get an idea what you need.

I threw away my plastic tire chocks and now have 4 tire blocks made by some 4x6 lumber cut into a curved wedge on a band saw. If I ever forget to remove a chock and pull the trailer over it the block doesn't just crush like plastic ones.

For leveling I use the plastic lego blocks. I have 3 sets as I boondock often and have needed them. They are durable, take up a lot less space, and are a lot lighter than long pieces of timber.

The problem with lego blocks though is you really can't put a tire chock at the ends and get it tight, hence SoundGuys system above. I do it different and I made a big clamp that wedges between the tires on the lego leveled side. Link to homemade clamps

As far as the stabilizers, I do use some pieces of 4x4 lumber to take up space so the jacks don't have to come down so far. I use the 4x4's because unlike leveling the trailer which is maybe an inch or two, the leveling jacks can need a foot or more. In reality though I don't really care if the trailer wiggles a bit when people move around, maybe if I was trying to play Jenga it would be a problem, but otherwise a little wiggle is no big deal.

Last and really the most important advice I can give you. DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT unhook the trailer from the hitch until you have 4 tire blocks down (block both the front and the back of the tires) to prevent the trailer moving. Also never unhook the safety chains until the trailer is off the hitch and not rolling away. If you're on this forum long enough you will read about somebody thinking their site is level and unhooking the hitch only to have the trailer start rolling away.

[SoundGuy]

Grit dog wrote:
OMFG is all I can say!

Ralph Cramden wrote:
Indeed! I'll see that and raise a WTF.

MFL wrote:
Often enjoy entertaining posts from these guys! :B

But hey...even SoundGuy is showing a bit of humor! :C

You don't know what you don't know 😛 , so .......

Chocked in this manner can the trailer shift forward? - not in the slightest, regardless of site slope. :B

Chocked in this manner can the trailer shift backward? - not in the slightest, regardless of site slope. :B

Can the rubber chocks, secured with properly sized hardwood spacers, ever shift? - never. :B

Is the distance between the adjacent curb side tires the same as between the street side tires? - never.

Does the distance between adjacent tires change depending on tire temperature and the surface on which the tires are sitting - absolutely yes.

Why not just use an adjustable dual axle chock such as the BAL Standard Tire Locking Chock? - the distance between adjacent tires has to be at least 15" for the BAL chock to fit but on my particular trailer this requirement often can't be met when the tires are sitting on (and sinking into) a soft surface such as sand. 😞

Rubber chocks secured firmly in place with hardwood spacers of differing widths solved ALL these issues. Works like a charm in every circumstance. :B :B

[MFL]

Ralph Cramden wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
OMFG is all I can say!

Indeed! I'll see that and raise a WTF.

Often enjoy entertaining posts from these guys! :B

But hey...even SoundGuy is showing a bit of humor! :C

Jerry

[drsteve]

Ralph Cramden wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
OMFG is all I can say!

Indeed! I'll see that and raise a WTF.

X2

[Ralph_Cramden]

Grit dog wrote:
OMFG is all I can say!

Indeed! I'll see that and raise a WTF.

[Grit_dog]

OMFG is all I can say!

[SoundGuy]

drsteve wrote:
And the numbers?

Width in millimetres. 😉 Hey, I'm Canadian, eh?! :W

[drsteve]

SoundGuy wrote:


Ya mean like these hardwood spacers I use to firmly secure pairs of rubber chocks between adjacent dual axle tires? :W





Oh yeah, forgot to mention - works like a charm! 😛

And the numbers?

[wa8yxm]

I drive a single rear axle Class A.. I use 2x12's for hte most part for leveling (2 by width of tire tread is recommended or wider mine are 8" wide but I bought a whole truck load of 2x12 a few years back).

Now this won't work all that well for yoru dual axle but it can

I have a set of "Stair steps
One/2/3 plank each plank is 1' shorter than the one above it I use these in front.. Amazing how well they work. Just do not "Overshoot" the top plank.

[2012Coleman]

pbeverly wrote:
I use a Tire Changing Ramp for changing tires on a horse trailer and it works great, no jacks. My thought was this would work for the TT. Any thoughts on using this?

I carried one of these - never used it. Called GS roadside assistance the only time I've had a flat. Happened at the entrance to a rest stop

[SoundGuy]

Grit dog wrote:
Beerbrewer, don't go all great gonzos buying every possible widget and accessory for your first trip, unless you reeeealy like to spend money.
IMO, bring a handful of wood blocks. Heck, even a dozen 2x4s cut to 12-18" long will work.

Ralph Cramden wrote:
You mean he should not have 264 hardwood blocks or wedges, all planed down to different thicknesses by 1/8' of an inch and checked with a micrometer, then individually organized with an Alphanumeric legend or the Dewey Decimal System?

Ya mean like these hardwood spacers I use to firmly secure pairs of rubber chocks between adjacent dual axle tires? :W





Oh yeah, forgot to mention - works like a charm! 😛

[Ralph_Cramden]

Grit dog wrote:
Beerbrewer, don't go all great gonzos buying every possible widget and accessory for your first trip, unless you reeeealy like to spend money.
IMO, bring a handful of wood blocks. Heck, even a dozen 2x4s cut to 12-18" long will work.

You mean he should not have 264 hardwood blocks or wedges, all planed down to different thicknesses by 1/8' of an inch and checked with a micrometer, then individually organized with an Alphanumeric legend or the Dewey Decimal System?