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 > can I seperate the 12 volt from the 110 system?

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/21/19 07:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old time converter will be noisy and be a poor battery charger as well. Looks like it is sharing a breaker with something else, so find the breaker it is on and take the converter's black wire from that breaker, but leave the other black wire(s) on it.

EDIT--the converter in the 1981 TC we had was a plug in type to an outlet, so that was easy to replace. It was a heavy metal box with relays that clicked, sort of primitive. Made in Winnipeg [emoticon]

Now replace the converter or just use a battery charger when that battery runs down some.

Go down the left to "extra info" here for examples from guys who have done that.

http://www.bestconverter.com/

* This post was edited 01/21/19 07:42am by BFL13 *


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Bobbo

Wherever I park

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Posted: 01/21/19 07:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Folks, his 12v side is working OK, except for possibly recharging the battery. He doesn't have 120v to the outlets. His messages are cryptic, but include:

Terry78 wrote:

I can use lamps for lighting. But would really like to use the wall Outlets to plug stuff in.

and

Terry78 wrote:

Right now I'm running a power strip on an extension cord.

Sounds like low voltage on the 120v side and the converter is not happy with that.


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 01/21/19 07:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

120V AC and 12V DC systems ARE already separate.water pump, Lights, Fridge/Water heater Propane controls, fans, etc


As Biscuit said they are different systems The ONLY common point is the converter or Inverter/Charger

Converter: Converts 120 volt AC to Battery power. (13.6 to 14.6 VDC) charges batteries..

Inverter/Charger: Does above if shore/generator present. else it does the INVERSE (converts battery power to 120vac) Not all RV's have one.

I have both

YOu may skip this next part:
12 volts may be used by some 120 volt stuff for CONTROL.
Examples include Fridge, Water heater and Air Conditioners

Back to read on:

If the Converter or charger is ... toast.. you may hook up a SMART charger as a temp measure (just hook it to the batteries) Mine is a Deltran Battery Tender PLUS. the unit I have can do 1-2 amp Tend. 20 Charge and 70 Jump start. about 100 bucks at AutoZone Works well
(My converter failed in 2017, my inverter as well so I had no 12 volt once the battery died.. on a Sunday.. AUTO ZONE Was open so I had power back quickly. Replaced converter 2 days later).


Finally converters for this post come i 2 flavors. ONE is integrated into the power distribution panel.. LIke a Parallex 7300 or some WFCO models.. IF you have this type and have confirmed the converter is toast go with a Progressive Dynamics 4600 series. it replaces JUST the converter part.

The other is a Stand alone (Independent box). And to replace that a Progressive Dynamics 9200 is the box of choice

Mine is a 9180 with charge wizard (Equal to 9280 with dongle).


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wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 01/21/19 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

joebedford wrote:

I don't understand why (some of) your 115V outlets don't work. Maybe the breaker labelled portable outlets powers your outlets?

Why do you think your converter is shot? In any case, if you disconnect it, all your ac devices should work.

I don’t think he ever said they don’t work (except it appears he has unplugged from shore power to stop the “loud hum”).

He just wants to know if he can run only 120v. Based upon what he listed as uses (full time=no breakaway, 120v lighting, not using RV heat), the fridge may be the only possible issue but did they even use 12v in 1979?

MrWizard

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Posted: 01/21/19 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your 120v breakers and your 12v fuses and charge converter are separate systems
Contained in one box

You have to disconnect from shore power
Open the box
And disconnect the 120v for the charger part, only the charger part
You need to leave everything else connected

It's clear that you need another person that knows how to do this

Once this is done
You have to have another way to charge and maintain your batteries
Install another stand alone converter and connect it to the batteries
Or
Use a portable battery charger, doable but not the best option


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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 01/21/19 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just get a new converter already.

Give Randy a call. www.bestconverter.com


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wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 01/21/19 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Just get a new converter already.

Give Randy a call. www.bestconverter.com

You could send him one. [emoticon]

I'm assuming that in a full time 1979 trailer where he said he doesn't even need 12v, buying a converter is not a priority or good use of his budget.

Terry78

Oregon

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Posted: 01/21/19 02:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the help guys. Now i got some work to do.
Will be checking out all thes ideas. My multi meter arrived from Amazon
This morning. Pretty fast. I ordered it yesterday at about 3.00 pm.
It got here at like 9 am.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 01/21/19 03:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will make an adjustment on my earlier post
12 volt system includes
Factory installed lights
Slides if you have 'em
Power jacks if you have 'em (See note below)
Water pump
Furnace
Control power for A/C Water heater and Fridge
IF YOU HAVE AN INVERTER the batteries may supply power to SOME outlets Microwave, television and releated places. Some. or all or none depending on the inverter.

120 volt outlets. A/C, 120 volt DEVICES like Microwave.. MAY not work at all without shore power. (or generator power).

Large (1000 watt and up) Inverters are often also chargers.

Terry78

Oregon

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Posted: 01/21/19 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey thanks for all the help.
I left the black wire, charing circuit dis connected. (I think that's the charger wire) the hum and Clicking have stopped. I have 12 volt lights
and the 110 outlets that I wanted.so whew! Problem seems to be solved.
Thanks again to all you guys!

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