Proper Trailer Brake Function Check???

[bowler1]

Hi,
I had some problems with my new 5th wheel brakes when I got it. The brakes were replaced and they now have about 1000 miles on them and have been readjusted so I want to make sure they are working sufficienty.

After getting them warmed up I took the rig out and tested the stop time from 20mph to 0 using just the manual trailer brake and not the vehicle brakes. Stopping time was about 7 seconds.

I did the same on the road slowing from 60-40 using only the trailer brakes and it was again about 7 seconds.

Does this sound about right?

Another question on this is that I have found that the brakes work very poorly when first pulling out of my driveway and that they need to get a bit hot in order to function fully. Is this normal as well?

thanks for your help

Matt

[BarneyS]

Most of the drum brakes on todays trailers require some motion in order to work. If you apply the brakes from the manual lever you would need to pull forward a few feet to find out if they were working.
Don't know about disk brakes however.
Barney

[ivbinconned]

2 years ago I went for a driving test to obtain a “G” endorsement allowing me to pull trailers over 10,000 pounds.
The examiner had me test the trailer brakes by applying them with manual lever, then putting the truck in gear. Truck didn’t want to advance...he said that’s good.

[rickeoni]

the way I was taught to check trailer brakes is.......Get up to about 20 MPH on a gravel surface and manually apply the trailer brakes if they skid, turn it down .5 and try again. If they don't skis turn up a notch until they skid and turn back .5 Been doing this for years and never had an issue.

Most newer trucks with factory brake controllers don't send full voltage to the brakes belos about 15MPH.

[Dave_H_M]

Lynnmor wrote:

Dave H M wrote:
My brakes are slow starters after setting for the best part of a year.

Maybe the oil is separating out of the grease and leaking past the seal. Did you see any sign of that when you checked the brake lining wear?

No and it has been like that on the last two fifth wheels.

[bowler1]

Hi,
thanks for the responses. Good point on the possible oil leak. I guess it would make sense that it would take some time for the oil to burn off...if it does not completely and permanently conatminate the pads.

I have noticed a burning smell like as if my brakes were getting too hot when perhaps they should not have.

When I first left the newly installed brakes (only on one side and I can't rmember which) i had a guy pull up next to me and tell me that my brakes were smoking. I turned down my controller a bit afterwards, but assumed this was because the brakes were still settling in.

Matt

[Lynnmor]

Dave H M wrote:
My brakes are slow starters after setting for the best part of a year.

Maybe the oil is separating out of the grease and leaking past the seal. Did you see any sign of that when you checked the brake lining wear?

[Dave_H_M]

My brakes are slow starters after setting for the best part of a year.

[big_bird_2]

Good luck.

[1320Fastback]

I would not expect there to be any guide to the trailer slowing the tow vehicle in a certain amount of time because there are way too many variables.

I set mine so they can lock up manually using the slider and then set them down to a lesser setting depending on if driving in rain or dry conditions. The trailer brakes stop the trailer, the truck brakes stop the truck.

[bowler1]

Thanks for the help. To answer the question above, no...I cannot lock up the trailer brakes on the highest setting. I currently have my controller (Ram factory brake controller) at 7.5 or 8 I think. My trailer is about 13.5k loaded.

The reason I ask the question here is because I have had problems with my brakes. When I bought my trailer last April (new) the brakes basically did not work at all after pulling a couple hundred miles. Took it back to the dealer and somehow the magnets had gouged the braking surface and the hubs and brakes needed to be replaced.

After replacement they worked. At 1000 miles I had them adjusted at a dealer in conjunction with other work (but I honestly think they FORGOT to adjust them)

A couple hundred miles later the brakes were weak again.

When i got home I adjusted them myself and they needed about 20 clicks of adjustment. I then took it out and ran the test above. For the first few miles they were still weak, but then settled in.

So i am still a little leery of the brakes on my trailer given the past experience, especially if the dealer DID adjust them like they were supposed to.

My trailer is under warranty and i need to bring it in anyway so wanted to be able to effectively communicate if there were a problem.

matt

[big_bird_2]

The trailer is not supposed to stop the truck. All you want to do is not let the trailer pass the truck on a fast stop.

[one_strange_tex]

I check my brakes in conjunction with my pull test function check of the hitching after backing onto the hitch. I do not rely on a visual check or the sound to determine if I am safely attached, though I do listen for the sound and look it over after the jaw trips. I lift the front jacks a few inches off the ground (hydraulic in my case, so one is all the way up and the other is a little bit elevated), keep the chocks in place, then manually apply the brakes with the brake controller while applying a very small amount of accelerator in forward to pull gently against the hitch and chock. If I am hitched and the brakes are working, I should feel the resistance. If I am not hitched properly, the hitch will disconnect and the trailer will drop at most 1 - 2" if I don't stop before the king pin comes free. Better than dropping on the bed rails. It has never happened, but I still do this every time I hitch. Since I have a factory installed brake controller, I also see the controller output on a display in my dash, so I have a secondary wiring continuity check as well.

I'll point out that this will not replace the need to periodically check the brake pads, etc. It is only a check of the braking system function, primarily the wiring and controller.

I have on occasion applied the brakes manually with the controller at low speed when I had some reason to doubt everything was right, but I do not do this routinely. You have to be on the right road, speed and traffic conditions to do this type of check.

[RCMAN46]

My first question. Can be brake controller be set up high enough to lock the trailer brakes?

What controller are you using and what is your setting?

[JIMNLIN]

Brake Pads and especially brake shoes will need to be broken in per axle makers specs. After the break in period then is the time to test a trailers braking system and make adjustments/changes to suit you.
All my service and rv trailers brakes will slide the tires with high brake controller gain after I do my R&R and amp checks on them.......after their broke in properly.