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Just venting....

goufgators
Explorer
Explorer
We've owned MH's with both 30A and 50A service (not the same MH ;). Our current MH has 50A service. There are, of course, advantages to having the higher amp service such as simultaneously running both a/c units, microwave and other draws. However, and frankly, I miss the 30A with its much smaller and easier to handle cord. The 50A cord, particularly in cold weather, is at times, like trying to return it to the storage bay as if it were a 20' 2x4 board. I know there's no solution to this problem but just had to get it off my chest. Don't think I'll ever buy another MH with 50A service. Well, actually, don't think I'll ever buy another one...period. Age is catching up with me and it won't be long before we'll have a 'hanging up the keys' ceremony...

PS Can someone direct me to instructions on how to change my signature. The MH listed was three MH's ago. Presently have a 2017.
2017 Winnebago Sunstar (gas)
2005 Honda CRV Toad
Invisi-brake
22 REPLIES 22

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
oldave wrote:
Come on guys use your brain .

If you use a 30 amp adapter it will only plug into a 30 amp receptacle .

A 30 amp receptacle will only let you have 30 amps of elect .

You will not be able to run all your stuff at one time , it'll be like
the old days .
Should we run the front air or the rear air.

The OP knows all this that's why he titled this thread " Just Venting "

Ray


Ivylog wrote:
Buy a 50 to 30 adapter and a 30amp cord...back to the good old days and problem solved.


The suggestion was to use a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter. This works fine in a 30 amp rig as the feed to the RV is 50 amps at 120 volts, the cable is protected by the 30 amp min breaker in the RV.

Now if you have a 50 amp to 30 amp at the box, and change the end to plug into a 50 amp connector at the RV, the RV will have a double 50 amp breaker allowing the RV to draw 50 amps over the 10 gauge wire, effectively turning it into a melted mess. either the 30 amp cable needs to be plugged into a 30 amp receptacle, or a 50 amp cable needs to be used.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
well, then consider everything after the OP to be an academic discussion.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

oldave
Explorer
Explorer
Come on guys use your brain .

If you use a 30 amp adapter it will only plug into a 30 amp receptacle .

A 30 amp receptacle will only let you have 30 amps of elect .

You will not be able to run all your stuff at one time , it'll be like
the old days .
Should we run the front air or the rear air.

The OP knows all this that's why he titled this thread " Just Venting "

Ray

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was thinking you meant 30 to 50 amp connector on trailer end AND 50amp to 30 amp connector on the source end, using a 30 amp cord in the middle, thereby theoretically accessing 50 AMP, over a 30 AMP cord.

I like the SOOW 6/4 cable idea. Im seriously considering that option myself.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
Walaby wrote:
And in that case, the 30 amp cable will potentially draw 50 Amps, unless you plug into the 30 amp outlet at the source.

OP wants the convenience of 50 amp without the bulk of the traditional 50 amp cable. The alternative cable source is the best option.

Mike

a 30-amp cable can only plug into a 30-amp source. i may not have been clear.

the OP is looking to go back to the good ole days of 30-amp RVing cuz the 30-amp cord is easier to handle. the only safe way to do that, IMO, is to use a 50-30 amp adapter at the RV end to which a 30-amp cord is connected between the RV and the 30-amp connection at the post. this presumes the OP's RV has a smart EMS which detects the 30-amp connection. this also presumes that his 50-amp cord is not permanently attached to the RV but rather must be plugged into the RV and the post.

me? i think the bucket idea or the electric reel is the way to go.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
And in that case, the 30 amp cable will potentially draw 50 Amps, unless you plug into the 30 amp outlet at the source.

OP wants the convenience of 50 amp without the bulk of the traditional 50 amp cable. The alternative cable source is the best option.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
if a 30-amp adapter is placed on a 50-amp cable that cable can only be connected to a 30-amp source. on our coach the EMS (energy mgmt system) senses that and won't allow more than 30-amps (actually 80% of 30-amps) to be drawn. the last two coaches we've had since 2000 had that. in the op's situation the 50-30 adapter plugs into the 50-amp connector on the RV and the 30-amp cord into that.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Walaby wrote:
goufgators wrote:
Ivylog wrote:
Buy a 50 to 30 adapter and a 30amp cord...back to the good old days and problem solved.


Such a simple but workable solution! Thanks for the reply...

Wouldn't drawing 50 amps over a 30 amp cord potentially over tax the 30 amp cord?

Mike


You are correct, the use of a 50 to 30 amp adapter, to use a 30 amp cable to feed a 50 amp panel is a very bad solution. You could be potentially drawing 50 amps over a 10 gauge cable. P:S

Best solution is using SOOW 6/4 cable! Soft supple and will carry the load!!!!
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
goufgators wrote:
Ivylog wrote:
Buy a 50 to 30 adapter and a 30amp cord...back to the good old days and problem solved.


Such a simple but workable solution! Thanks for the reply...

Wouldn't drawing 50 amps over a 30 amp cord potentially over tax the 30 amp cord?

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Oh what I do... Right now my 50 amp cord is in a Rip-Stop Nylon bag in my car.

On a 50 amp back in site I pull up. Unhook pull the car in and toss the bag out at the power pole.. Then pull out park the car back the MH in and hook up

Exiting I reverse that process Way easier to stow it in the car than the RV.

30 amp site it stays in the bag in teh car and I break out the 30 anp cold weather Superflex cord. Which I am using now.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

goufgators
Explorer
Explorer
Ivylog wrote:
Buy a 50 to 30 adapter and a 30amp cord...back to the good old days and problem solved.


Such a simple but workable solution! Thanks for the reply...
2017 Winnebago Sunstar (gas)
2005 Honda CRV Toad
Invisi-brake

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
way2roll wrote:
Have you considered an electric cord reel?

that’s precisely what we did. 25’ on an electric reel. no muss, no fuss. i carry an additional 25’ feet just in case but in 3- yrs have only had to use it once.
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
there are. in fact. several solutions to that problem

one is a cord winder. another This is a device patterened after a pitching machine or tennis ball machine used for batting/tennis practice. Only instead of spitting out balls it pulls in the cord which then coils in a TUB much like what many above show.

A Cord REEL like a hose reel (I do not care for these)

There is a type of cord I call a "Super flex" it has a different (Plastic I think) jacket instead of the one that gets real stiff in cold weather. Also the strands of wire are both thinner and more (more strands thinner) so it flexes very easily.. I have a 30 amp cord for my Rig (Currently in use) made of that stuff. Coils as easly at 20 degrees as at 80.

Check with your RV supplier for ready made "Super flex" cold weather cords.

This is an example at home Depot

Also a shorter cord (The one above is 15 feet) makes it easier to wrangle but you may need an extension cord with a short cord. Those alos come in assorted lengths.. I googled "Cold weather 50 amp rv power cord" by the way.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

WNYBob
Explorer
Explorer
Store in a heated area!