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 > Briggs & Stratton P2200 Gen

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BFL13

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Posted: 10/08/18 12:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/briggs........att-inverter-generator-3992900p.html#srp

Got one of these on sale, in hopes it would run my 75 amp adjustable voltage battery charger/converter. On the Honda 3000, that charger pulls 1693VA according to the Kill-A-Watt, and this gen is rated for 1700 "watts" (120v x 14.2a) running.

It will not run my 75 amper at 75 amps, but it will at about 68 amps when dialled down to a lower voltage or at 14.8v when the batts will only accept in the 60s for amps.

The P2200 is very sensitive to overloads above 14a AC, as seen on the Kill-A-Watt, and it has a voltage drop of about 5 volts built in between no-load of 125 and rated running 1700w of 120v.

I am seeing the Kill-A-Watt with voltage more like 117 and amps above 14 with VA only a little over 1700, and the red overload light is flashing and also the voltage on the Kill-A-Watt is blinking fast.

I called B&S to see if this is normal. Apparently not. The overload light is supposed to come on and shut off the unit. You then have to unplug the overload and do a reset routine. I asked if the breaker could be a self-resetting type, they said no but there might be a fault. Suggested taking it to a dealer for a check on that.

So it will run the 75 at first but show overload but if you leave it running things get worse. Amps go up to 15, voltage goes down and the overload keeps on. I don't think my converter/charger would like that rapid on/off 120v input, but it keeps going like nothing is wrong (for as long as I let it run!)

Bottom line is this gen is a neat little gen in many ways, but it appears you can only run a 60 amper (with PF 0.7) within its running rating of 1700VA (14.2 x120v )

A note on the 120v wiring from gen to appliance. With the Honda 3000, I got 126.8 unloaded and saw 123.5 running the 75 at 75. That was with 30ft of #12 extension cord. Voltage drop 3.3

I had the P2200 wired up with the 30ft #12 but to "whole house" in the MH and the charger on that. Gen unloaded is 124.9 and I saw 115.7 on the Kill-A-Watt where the converter was plugged in. This low voltage made the amps go to 15.13 for a VA of 1751.

I thought to improve the 120v wiring and have lless voltage drop, and maybe get the amps down so it would not overload the gen's 14.2 spec.

With just the 30 ft of #12, at first the Kill-A-Watt showed
118.7v, 14.49a, 1249w, 1721 VA, PF 0.73 charger at 73.2 (it should have been at 75.x), but as it ran the red light came on flashing and voltage slid while amps rose. No good even with the better wiring --same wiring as with the Honda 3000 but much bigger voltage drop with same load.

I am guessing this gen's engine can't support as much and makes for a bigger voltage drop, which makes the amps higher going over the receptacle's 14.2a spec and triggers the overload. ?

Anyway, for $549 plus tax (about $423 US) it can run a 60 (65 if there were such a thing) amper, but not a 75.

It is not "too loud" and it does have an eco switch for being quieter with less load. So I like it, except I am annoyed it won't run my 75 amper


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI

2oldman

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Posted: 10/08/18 12:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why would the charger pull almost 1700w when charging at 75a?

BFL13

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Posted: 10/08/18 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2oldman wrote:

Why would the charger pull almost 1700w when charging at 75a?


It doesn't. It pulls 1700 Volt-Amps (VA) with its power factor of 0.73. If the charger were "PF -corrected" it would pull more like 1241 Watts

Just to add more fun to that, the charger output is 75 amps set to 14.8 volts, so output is 1110 watts. But they cleverly define "efficiency" by ignoring PF. So they advertise the charger as having efficiency (output/input watts) as 1110/1241 = 89% !

In real life with the PF, since input is actually 1700, you get 1110/1700 = 65%.

* This post was edited 10/08/18 12:35pm by BFL13 *

road-runner

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Posted: 10/08/18 01:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Same story as with an eu2000i. 60 amp converter is all it can support. I'm still waiting for the mainstream converters to have pf correction. I'm currently using a prosine 2.0. I don't need the inverter, but rather use it because of its pf corrected charger.


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BFL13

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Posted: 10/08/18 02:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a bank of 450AH, so if it is down enough to warrant a generator recharge, 60 amps isn't much. OTOH, all I have instead is alternator charging which is less with this MH and its older alternator type. I can get 32 amps on starting, but that quickly falls to the low 20s and stays in that area.

Unfortunately, that also occurs with lower voltage around 13.8-14ish so if I wanted to add the 20 or so alternator amps to the 60 gen amps and get 80, I would have to dial the charger's voltage down to match the alternator's, which would then reduce the 60 to maybe 50, depending on various things, so that plan isn't so good.

Another approach is to recharge more often so the battery bank will only accept the 60 amps anyway instead of 75 or so, but then the 60 will taper during the run, wasting gen time.

The gen would really only be for an extended stay past four days with no solar. As it is we can get home and do the recharge there in slow time.

I can get two of these P2200s in the MH side compartment that was meant to hold the genset if fitted, but the Honda 3000 won't fit and is too heavy to move around anyway. It says two P2200s in parallel can do 3000w. (I could go back to doing 50-90s with 156 amps like before with the 5er!!!!) So the thing to do would be to grab another one before the sale ends and get the parallel kit and, and, Oops it's time for my meds again! [emoticon]

theoldwizard1

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Posted: 10/09/18 05:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP - Curious, what are you using for a charger/converter ?

When you are down close to 50% state-of-charge, how long does it take to get back to 100% at 60A and 70A ?

BFL13

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Posted: 10/09/18 08:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:

OP - Curious, what are you using for a charger/converter ?

When you are down close to 50% state-of-charge, how long does it take to get back to 100% at 60A and 70A ?


I do not even try to get back to 100% on generator, because that takes hours and hours. I use it to get back up in SOC as much as possible in two hours. (provincial park gen hours)

70 amps on 450AH starting at 50% would take about two hours to get to 80% at constant 70 amps then amps taper for the Absorption stage.

55 amps on 450AH starting at 50% would take longer in Bulk to about 85% and then amps taper, so in two hours still at 55 so get 110 AH minus some for heat, call it 100 AH so went from 225 to 325/450 = 72.2%

So in two hours you get an additional 7.8% or 35AH using a 70 amper instead of a 55 amper. That may or may not matter in the scenario in effect.

(EDIT: typo and math corrected)

I happen to have PowerMax brand converter/chargers with the adjustable voltage feature. This little gen can only run my 55 amper, not the 75 amper. I have to decide if that matters the way we use the MH these days.

* This post was edited 10/09/18 10:56am by BFL13 *

BFL13

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Posted: 10/12/18 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I decided to keep the P2200, since it is a nice little gen, and it can go along in the MH in case we ever do need a generator. Redundancy is always good when away camping.

The glory days of high amp charging are over with the Class C instead of the 5er, so I am selling off the Honda 3000 (won't fit in the MH) and the 100 and 75 amp chargers on the local "used" site. I have a new 60 amp converter coming next week. I will be able to report on how that does with the Kill-A-Watt on the P2200.

I still have the issue of meeting Mex's 20% charging rate rule for my AGMs. The 55 amper is just right for doing the two 100AH batts, but they also have a 27 amp each limit. Makes for a narrow window between 40 (20%) and 54. (I pretend 55 is 54.)

I have to split the bank and do the two 100s and then do the 250AH, which allows a limit of 100 amps, so it is easier to do at least 20% (50 amps) and not hit the 100 amps limit, but then the gen VA limit kicks in so the window is really between 50 and 60 for amps in my case. The 60 amper will do the 250AH AGM but is over the 54 for the pair of 100s, so I still need the 55 for that in theory.

I blame Mex for creating this complicated situation with his 20% rule of course, but there is still a way through the maze! [emoticon]

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