โSep-22-2018 06:20 PM
โSep-24-2018 05:47 PM
BudDugly wrote:
I have a 2005 Lance truck camper with a 3-way refrigerator. I've tried using the DC setting twice and both times it caused a 30 amp fuse to blow in my truck's fuse box. It seems I read somewhere that a larger wire may need to be run from the truck to the camper. Any ideas about that?
โSep-24-2018 10:21 AM
โSep-23-2018 10:53 PM
Kayteg1 wrote:
Excess Flow Devices are mounted only on cylinders and they come to the market about 15 years ago. Older RVs with propane tanks still run without such things.
You concluded well that it was a fire that totaled RV, but still that would never happen would propane be turned off at the tank.
The safety subject has thousands of topics on the forum and the "it never happen to me" replies are not changing my mind.
I consider TC being much safer in this situation than other type of RV so did not worry about it so far, but finding better solution is still on my mind.
โSep-23-2018 09:57 PM
โSep-23-2018 08:21 PM
Kayteg1 wrote:
I like the electric power while on the road for safety reasons.
Even the fridge open flame is on other side than my fuel door, my discomfort for driving with open propane valve come from motorhomes, where lot of total losses were due flat tire rupturing propane line mounted on top of inner fender.
Point is that standard 30 amp wire has too much voltage loss on the length those wires run and even when you start with fully charged camper battery, after some driving the refrigerator will drain it.
Other thing is that 12V operation is on smaller output, while I camp in very hot weather and good cooling is crucial.
So this is my winter project to either run heavy 12V wires to the camper, or having factory inverter in my Ford - I might run 120V wire just for the refrigerator.
The problem with 2nd option is that when I stop the truck, what kills inverter, the fridge circuit will try to ignite propane.
โSep-23-2018 10:26 AM
โSep-23-2018 10:18 AM
โSep-23-2018 08:58 AM
KD4UPL wrote:
Your truck's charge fuse isn't supplying just the DC refrigerator. It's also trying to charge the TC batteries and power the LP leak detector, CO detector, stereo memory, TV amp, and whatever else.
Refrigerators use so much current on DC that's is kind of a useless option unless you significantly upgrade the circuit from the truck all the way back. I've always found it was much easier to just run the fridge on propane. I never used the 12v setting. The propane used is minuscule.
โSep-23-2018 05:28 AM
โSep-22-2018 11:37 PM
โSep-22-2018 06:36 PM
โSep-22-2018 06:32 PM
โSep-22-2018 06:27 PM