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Residential fridge and dry camping

steved28
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry if this is an old topic. I didn't find too much on a search.
With the big push (it seems) for residential refrigerators in new Class A's, I wonder what some are experiencing when camping without electric hook-ups.

It was such an issue for us, we opted to special order a dual power traditional (gas/electric) unit. I say "issue", but really a potential issue I wasn't willing to take a gamble on.

Our dealer said Winnebago was one of the few manufacturer's remaining who would offer the dual power fridge as an option. Not sure if I was being fed a line.
2019 Winnebago Sunstar LX 35F
2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sahara
48 REPLIES 48

Joatha
Explorer
Explorer
steved28 wrote:
Gjac wrote:
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric.


Sorry if this is a dumb question but, how does one get a residential refridgerator (physically) INTO an RV after the fact?


I removed the doors and hinges from the Samsung (RF18) and took it in through the front door of my Wanderlodge. It took my brother, my nephew, and I about an hour to get it in but only about 10 minutes to actually move it up and in. The remainder of the time was spent removing/re-installing the doors and hinges.

I also had removed the handle and some other hardware by the stairs at the front door - took me 5 minutes to put it back.

The other option is removing a window or the windshield. Fortunately, I didn't have to do that but some RV's may not have the space at the door. My front door has a 27" opening and the fridge needed 24" without doors and hinges so I had plenty of room.

BTW, I also had to remove the doors and hinges off the old RV refrigerator to get it out of there as well.
2001 Bluebird Wanderlodge LX ME

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
$2 per watt for DIY. That is up since the tariffs were instituted.

The biggest cost is "getting it wrong". For example the solar charge controller I have is maxed out. Replacing it is far more expensive than adding panels.

Two https://www.solarblvd.com/products/12-volt-240-watt-solar-panel-kit/ would be 480 watts, total cost for all materials $600.00. Add a MSW Cobra 2500 watt inverter for $200.

Based on 5 solar "hours" per day the harvest would be 2.5 kwh. That is enough to run a residential fridge.

Solar Blvd suggests such a system would produce about 77 kwh per month.

Gjac wrote:
If one were to add the solar that others like pianotuna talks about to maintain the batteries, I see folks advocating between 400 - 1000 watts of solar what would those cost be?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ivylog wrote:
Gjac wrote:
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric. I dry camp 95% of the time and tried to compare costs going to residential. What I have gleaned from these discussions is that I would have to add 2 more batteries, at least another 100 amp battery charger maybe more if I wanted to reduce generator time, a pure sine wave inverter to run the residential, some solar and all the cabling to keep the 4 6 v GC batteries healthy not sure If I missed anything. My question is what would all this cost vs a new Norcold if one had to pay someone to do all this work?

One advantage of a $1000 Samsung refer is it does not need a PSW inverter because the compressor is DC but itโ€™s 7โ€ taller than a 1200. Both can go through the MIs door with their doors off. Iโ€™m planning on 4-5 hours to do this swap for a fellow RVer this weekend. This assumes there will not be much woodwork involved.

I put in a 21 cuft Whirlpool myself that I hoped would fit perfectly (ended up 1/2โ€ to tall)...$500 refer, 2 batteries $300, 1000W PSW inverter $300, 100A charger $250..:$1350. Had to bring it in the drivers window because it is not counter depth. Probably had 10-12 hours labor.
Thanks for the associated costs. If one were to add the solar that others like pianotuna talks about to maintain the batteries, I see folks advocating between 400 - 1000 watts of solar what would those cost be?

Robbie_Welch
Explorer
Explorer
I changed over to a residential refrigerator 2 years ago and would not go back. I dry camp a lot (racing) a lot of times I run a small 2K watt generator and it just sits there and idles. The batteries last thru the night. Going down the road the alternator keeps the batteries charged no problem. The only thing about the residential refrigerator is it can be noisy but I'll take that. I also run a mini refrigerator in one of the side compartments with no problems so that's 2 . If you have a solar panel I'm sure it would cut down on the generator usage. Hope this helps

jplante4
Explorer
Explorer
steved28 wrote:
Sorry if this is a dumb question but, how does one get a residential refridgerator (physically) INTO an RV after the fact?


Usually you have to remove a window. In fact, most rigs won't let an RV fridge in the door.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
Gjac wrote:
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric. I dry camp 95% of the time and tried to compare costs going to residential. What I have gleaned from these discussions is that I would have to add 2 more batteries, at least another 100 amp battery charger maybe more if I wanted to reduce generator time, a pure sine wave inverter to run the residential, some solar and all the cabling to keep the 4 6 v GC batteries healthy not sure If I missed anything. My question is what would all this cost vs a new Norcold if one had to pay someone to do all this work?

One advantage of a $1000 Samsung refer is it does not need a PSW inverter because the compressor is DC but itโ€™s 7โ€ taller than a 1200. Both can go through the MIs door with their doors off. Iโ€™m planning on 4-5 hours to do this swap for a fellow RVer this weekend. This assumes there will not be much woodwork involved.

I put in a 21 cuft Whirlpool myself that I hoped would fit perfectly (ended up 1/2โ€ to tall)...$500 refer, 2 batteries $300, 1000W PSW inverter $300, 100A charger $250..:$1350. Had to bring it in the drivers window because it is not counter depth. Probably had 10-12 hours labor.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...

jplante4
Explorer
Explorer
Both Dometic and Vitrifrigo America have AC/DC compressor fridges that are basically the same size as a Norcold 600 series propane. We got the Dometic one in the store and ran it just on a fully charged group 24 12v battery for 40 hours.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

steved28
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric.


Sorry if this is a dumb question but, how does one get a residential refridgerator (physically) INTO an RV after the fact?
2019 Winnebago Sunstar LX 35F
2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sahara

tropical36
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric. I dry camp 95% of the time and tried to compare costs going to residential. What I have gleaned from these discussions is that I would have to add 2 more batteries, at least another 100 amp battery charger maybe more if I wanted to reduce generator time, a pure sine wave inverter to run the residential, some solar and all the cabling to keep the 4 6 v GC batteries healthy not sure If I missed anything. My question is what would all this cost vs a new Norcold if one had to pay someone to do all this work?

On our 98 gasser, I installed an extra outlet from the after market MSW 1KW inverter, I had installed previously. With two 6 volt batteries, it supplied the RV fridge while underway, but not for long, when standing alone. Most sure a residential would have done a lot better. Either way, one doesn't need a huge fancy fridge, that requires a PSW inverter and adding a couple of extra batteries would be optional. I think given all the options and especially on an older coach, I'd go for a $400 residential and with keeping the batteries charged with the genset, as required, when boon docking. Probably could use some extra shelves built on the side for taking up the extra space, after making the switch, too.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have read these threads with interest for the last 15 years thinking someday my Norcold was going to fail and I would have to replace it with a residential or another propane electric. I dry camp 95% of the time and tried to compare costs going to residential. What I have gleaned from these discussions is that I would have to add 2 more batteries, at least another 100 amp battery charger maybe more if I wanted to reduce generator time, a pure sine wave inverter to run the residential, some solar and all the cabling to keep the 4 6 v GC batteries healthy not sure If I missed anything. My question is what would all this cost vs a new Norcold if one had to pay someone to do all this work?

steved28
Explorer
Explorer
Ivylog wrote:

"my goal is zero" generator...good luck with that because with everything turned off you will still have 2-3 amps parasitic power draw 24/7.


Granted I am not at the stage of my life yet where I get to go long periods of time without having to return to work, but when I do go out for 3-4-5 days at a time dry camping, I haven't had to use the generator for more than 5 minutes at a time. And that is only because of my wife's addiction to her hair dryer.

Maybe I've been lucky, but with 400W of solar and 2 AGM batteries, it's been all good. I have a shunt on my batteries connected to an amp/volt meter remote display at all times, so I am always aware of the draw. I don't have that kind of parasitic load, unless perhaps I leave the inverter on when not in use. Samlex Inverter On sunny days I am usually charged by 10AM, on cloudy days it may take the day. If I am in a pinch, I can just start the V10, it has a 130A alternator. (175 in the new one) Sometimes I will do this in the AM when making coffee, it's actually a lot quieter than the 4Kw generator I have.
2019 Winnebago Sunstar LX 35F
2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sahara

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Ivylog,

I do live in an area where there is little shade and lots of sun. As a weekend warrior, when I had 875 amp-hours of battery bank, and 256 watts of solar panels, I regularly did all my cooking and coffee making without a generator. I did that for five years. Sometimes I'd even use the water heater on 120 volt.

Once I became full time I needed a generator or a massive rebuild on the solar. I chose the generator. That was the wrong path for me, and if I were starting over I'd go for the solar solution.

Ivylog wrote:
Anytime you run a high amp appliance, you need to crank your generator unless you have 1000+ W solar and close to that in AH batteries. When the DW starts dinner she cranks the generator and we shut it off after 1.5 hours. In the morning when making coffee I run it for half an hour.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Ductape
Explorer
Explorer
gemsworld wrote:
15+ years RVing with propane refrigerators without any problems.


+1 decades no problem.

We do have solar and a big battery bank, too. Thing is, there are those pesky trees and sometimes clouds. Last fall in NH it was cold and rained every day for a week. No sun. This week we're in the trees and we like it here. Not everybody camps in a desert.

OP made the right decision for himself, as he doesn't want to hear the generator.
49 States, 6 Provinces, 2 Territories...

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
steved28 wrote:
Ivylog wrote:

My generator time has actually decreased after going residential BUT I added another 100A charger. 1.5 hours generator in the evening and 1/2 hour in the morning is all I need. Without a doubt, going residential is my best DIY project...helps that the NiCold was that bad.


Why was your generator use higher prior to this? It doesn't really make sense that the fridge change would cut down on generator hours if you were running on propane. Regardless, still too much running time for me, my goal is zero.


Guess I should have done this BUT I added another 100A charger. My 2012 inverter/charger has never put out it's rated 100 amps...closer to 70 so by adding an additional 100A charger (that does put out 100A) I've more than doubled my charging capacity. Anytime you run a high amp appliance, you need to crank your generator unless you have 1000+ W solar and close to that in AH batteries. When the DW starts dinner she cranks the generator and we shut it off after 1.5 hours. In the morning when making coffee I run it for half an hour.

"my goal is zero" generator...good luck with that because with everything turned off you will still have 2-3 amps parasitic power draw 24/7. Those gremlins is why the residential power link you provided is poorly done...did not measure the power at the refer plug. My real world #s for a 21 cuft Whirlpool measured at the input to the PSW inverter is 8 amps (12V) or 96 watts. My duty cycle is less than 50% based on being able to run it for 36 hours on two 125AH batteries before getting to 12.1 V.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...