Dometic stove, one burner not working

[mtmtyah]

I had the same problem while the RV was under warranty and the dealer replaced the entire stove, propane tank, and propane regulator just about a year ago.. The smaller burner on my two burner propane Dometic stove won't light. It's sparking but not getting any propane. Before it completely wouldn't start, for two days I'd see an on-and-on flame but it wouldn't stay lit. I removed the top two pieces and found a pool of water so cleaned that out. I'm wondering if I just need to clean the jet (with a safety pin? I remember being told to never do that on other propane appliances so I'm hesitant to try that here) or if there's anything else I can try.

[77rollalong]

would remove the orifice and make sure the hole is clear, if you have to poke a hole back into it use a wood tooth pick as it wont damage the orifice size, and or soak it in naptha ...

[Z-Peller]

mtmtyah wrote:
That's my final comment on this. Your comments are not helpful here. Perhaps elsewhere, but not here.

Wow!...well, dont let the door hit you in the bum when you leave.

[camperdave]

Ok, whose fake noob is this?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

mtmtyah, are you throwing a hissy fit or are you willing to share your "fix" with innocent folks who had no part in the argument? This may help a lot of folks who are do it yourslefer's. 🙂

[mtmtyah]

dougrainer wrote:
My comment about the dealer.
1. They replaced the LP Tank and the Regulator assbly and the Range.
2. Dometic did not direct them to replace the LP tank and Regulator
3. So, they replaced the LP Tank and Regulator and it did NOT fix the problem. So Dometic just sent a new range because it was easier than allowing a dealer that had no clue to continue
4. OR, they replaced the Range, it still did not work, so they replaced the LP tank and regulator and it STARTED working.
5. Regardless, of which scenario, the dealer was incompetent. They replaced parts instead of finding and fixing the problem. Doug

PS, IF the Water Heater fired up and ran, then there was enough LP/pressure/volume to run the 2 range burners. So, that would take the LP tank and regulator out of the equation.

Wrong. The dealer fix worked great. The problem I just fixed was totally different from the issue the dealer/Dometic/manufacturer addressed. That's my final comment on this. Your comments are not helpful here. Perhaps elsewhere, but not here.

[shelbyfv]

mtmtyah wrote:
I fixed it.

Are we to guess? :h

[dougrainer]

My comment about the dealer.
1. They replaced the LP Tank and the Regulator assbly and the Range.
2. Dometic did not direct them to replace the LP tank and Regulator
3. So, they replaced the LP Tank and Regulator and it did NOT fix the problem. So Dometic just sent a new range because it was easier than allowing a dealer that had no clue to continue
4. OR, they replaced the Range, it still did not work, so they replaced the LP tank and regulator and it STARTED working.
5. Regardless, of which scenario, the dealer was incompetent. They replaced parts instead of finding and fixing the problem. Doug

PS, IF the Water Heater fired up and ran, then there was enough LP/pressure/volume to run the 2 range burners. So, that would take the LP tank and regulator out of the equation.

[Z-Peller]

DiskDoctr wrote:

HERE HERE!.....very politely put, and well said!

[DiskDoctr]

mtmtyah wrote:

Don't need or want your advice. It isn't helpful, including your inaccurate, inappropriate comment about the dealer, especially since Dometic was directly involved.

Welcome new member. Looks like you are getting off to a rough start here. Maybe this will help.

1. Most people here are trying to help and offer suggestions freely.

2. Doug happens to be one of our veteran PROs and is quite generous with his professional advice and extensive experience. Hard to find better. We have some others who are also professionals on RVs and you'll get to know who they are if you hang around long enough

3. It is customary to tell you things you may already know. Until we know YOUR level of knowledge, it serves as a starting point to get to a (hopefully) solution

4. Be patient and friendly. Being snippy...well, you may find yourself posting to a very quiet audience.

5. It is also customary and polite to report back WHAT you did to fix it. We have given our time to read, consider, and respond as we felt qualified and compelled to your request for help.

So take a deep breath. Sit back and take a load off and enjoy the camping/RV related discussions. Enjoy your time here, we hope you add to the positive experiences 😉

[mtmtyah]

dougrainer wrote:

mtmtyah wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
You don't give the model number, but, the only Dometic 2 burner range I have worked on is a B Van install or small Trailer installed range. THAT model, the burner VALVE assbly controls all functions. You push it in and turn to open the valve to allow LP to flow. At the same time, (depending on model), you push the electronic ignitor button to light the LP or it has the Auto Ignitor switch built in to the Valve that starts the Ignitor. Once the flame is present you hold the valve in for about 10 seconds and the Thermocoupler then keeps the valve open and you let the knob spring back and the flame stays on. All this said, odds are the VALVE is bad, not the orifice. Orifice's rarely get debris or clog. You have to pull the complete range to really work on them. They are not designed to work while mounted in the countertop. There are only 4 tabs that hold the range to the counter top. Doug

I know extremely well how my stove works (not quite as you describe) and have used multiple propane stoves in homes and RVs for decades. Never any problems except this one burner. As I said, the dealer had replaced the entire stove as well as propane tank and regulator a year ago so I'm fearing it's a design issue, not something I can deal with.

Can you please elaborate more on the valve, such as what it looks like and where I found it--sounds like under the stovetop, i.e., after it's raised up.

You may have used LP appliances in homes and Rv's for years, but this particular model does NOT operate like the previous LP appliances you have had. THAT is why I attempted to explain the operation of this Dometic range. There are thousands of these Dometic Ranges out there and they rarely fail. The fact your dealer replaced the Range, the LP tank and the regulator just shows that dealer had NO CLUE what to do to fix a problem. I am NOT going to give you more info until you post the MODEL of the range. Doug

Don't need or want your advice. It isn't helpful, including your inaccurate, inappropriate comment about the dealer, especially since Dometic was directly involved.

[mtmtyah]

I fixed it.

[dougrainer]

mtmtyah wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
You don't give the model number, but, the only Dometic 2 burner range I have worked on is a B Van install or small Trailer installed range. THAT model, the burner VALVE assbly controls all functions. You push it in and turn to open the valve to allow LP to flow. At the same time, (depending on model), you push the electronic ignitor button to light the LP or it has the Auto Ignitor switch built in to the Valve that starts the Ignitor. Once the flame is present you hold the valve in for about 10 seconds and the Thermocoupler then keeps the valve open and you let the knob spring back and the flame stays on. All this said, odds are the VALVE is bad, not the orifice. Orifice's rarely get debris or clog. You have to pull the complete range to really work on them. They are not designed to work while mounted in the countertop. There are only 4 tabs that hold the range to the counter top. Doug

I know extremely well how my stove works (not quite as you describe) and have used multiple propane stoves in homes and RVs for decades. Never any problems except this one burner. As I said, the dealer had replaced the entire stove as well as propane tank and regulator a year ago so I'm fearing it's a design issue, not something I can deal with.

Can you please elaborate more on the valve, such as what it looks like and where I found it--sounds like under the stovetop, i.e., after it's raised up.

You may have used LP appliances in homes and Rv's for years, but this particular model does NOT operate like the previous LP appliances you have had. THAT is why I attempted to explain the operation of this Dometic range. There are thousands of these Dometic Ranges out there and they rarely fail. The fact your dealer replaced the Range, the LP tank and the regulator just shows that dealer had NO CLUE what to do to fix a problem. I am NOT going to give you more info until you post the MODEL of the range. Doug

[mtmtyah]

dougrainer wrote:
You don't give the model number, but, the only Dometic 2 burner range I have worked on is a B Van install or small Trailer installed range. THAT model, the burner VALVE assbly controls all functions. You push it in and turn to open the valve to allow LP to flow. At the same time, (depending on model), you push the electronic ignitor button to light the LP or it has the Auto Ignitor switch built in to the Valve that starts the Ignitor. Once the flame is present you hold the valve in for about 10 seconds and the Thermocoupler then keeps the valve open and you let the knob spring back and the flame stays on. All this said, odds are the VALVE is bad, not the orifice. Orifice's rarely get debris or clog. You have to pull the complete range to really work on them. They are not designed to work while mounted in the countertop. There are only 4 tabs that hold the range to the counter top. Doug

I know extremely well how my stove works (not quite as you describe) and have used multiple propane stoves in homes and RVs for decades. Never any problems except this one burner. As I said, the dealer had replaced the entire stove as well as propane tank and regulator a year ago so I'm fearing it's a design issue, not something I can deal with.

Can you please elaborate more on the valve, such as what it looks like and where I found it--sounds like under the stovetop, i.e., after it's raised up.

[dougrainer]

You don't give the model number, but, the only Dometic 2 burner range I have worked on is a B Van install or small Trailer installed range. THAT model, the burner VALVE assbly controls all functions. You push it in and turn to open the valve to allow LP to flow. At the same time, (depending on model), you push the electronic ignitor button to light the LP or it has the Auto Ignitor switch built in to the Valve that starts the Ignitor. Once the flame is present you hold the valve in for about 10 seconds and the Thermocoupler then keeps the valve open and you let the knob spring back and the flame stays on. All this said, odds are the VALVE is bad, not the orifice. Orifice's rarely get debris or clog. You have to pull the complete range to really work on them. They are not designed to work while mounted in the countertop. There are only 4 tabs that hold the range to the counter top. Doug