1989 Fleetwood Jambo Ford E-350 with 460 engine question

[fleetwoodjambo]

I recently purchased a used 89 Fleetwood Jamboree with Ford E-350 460 engine. It has 36,000 miles. I drove it home after private party purchase on approx. 150 miles drive,and it performed fine about 75 degree weather. A few weeks later, I took to a mobile mechanic to address electrical issue (coach lights and generator not working unless engine on or plugged into shore power). Anyway, it was 110 degrees in Cali that day, and while motor was running in park, it suddenly shut off. In total the engine had been running for about 45 minutes, but was only in park for about 2-3 minutes. Luckily I was in a Pet Boys parking lot when it happened. Not being too familiar with the mechanical history I thought the fuel pump went out (as there are two), but both were making a noise so I changed out fuel filter. Still would not start. Sprayed starting fluid into intake and it started after a few attempts of this same pattern. I let it run for about 5-10 minutes and proceeded to drive home, forgoing the initial electrical issue, as the engine was now my main concern. When Shortly after entering the freeway I encountered traffic at about 35-40 mph. Within a mile and while going up a small grade, the motor made some loud violent noises almost like a miss-fire and I could see hood compartment shaking. I applied throttle to go up grade but speedo needle continued to drop (no acceleration) to zero and then engine quit altogether again. I was able to re-start it right away but only for a few seconds. The 100 degree heat was unbearable, and not knowing what was wrong I had to call a tow truck. Next morning I went to tow yard and it started right up? A mobile mechanic came out and found no error codes. Pressure in fuel pump was tested and determined to be good. I found a nearby grade, much steeper than the one it died on the day prior, and climbed it without any problem. I was unable to duplicate the issue. Any thoughts on why it died on me? Again it was very HOT on the day in question but engine was on for less than an hour in total. When I drive it the temp needle stays in the middle but tends to move a bit towards the "H" under load. Also after running the motor for a few minutes, the hood release becomes extremely hot to where you need a rag to open it. Is the 460 motor known for getting overly hot? Anyone have this same experience? I am considering changing the ignition control module but I don't see it mounted anywhere on the left fender. Does anyone know for certain where the module is located on a 1989 Fleetwood Jamboree E-350? Research says might be on distributor, but with hood open I cant see beyond the top of distributor unless air filter and hoses removed...Hoping I have recourse to address this issue, wondering since it's almost 30 yrs old perhaps options are now available. Thanks for reading, any help is appreciated.

[TxGearhead]

We had a 1987 460 in a Class C. You should be able to hear the fan clutch when it engages. First time I went up a small hill in the summertime I thought the transmission was slipping. LOL
I did have to replace 1 fuel filter. I also replaced the 35 gallon fuel tank with an aftermarket 55 gallon. Not too bad a job dropping the tank if you need to get to the tank sock.
I think I would have the radiator professionally cleaned. The misters sounds like a cool? idea too.

[77rollalong]

We have a 460 in our 77 Rollalong as well, last weekend we had it out on the highway for about a 3 hour run running 70-75 MPH and did get a bit warm... other half complained about her legs getting hot thought.. on way back I kept it down around 65 and a lot less heat generated, the front AC did help a bit

[fleetwoodjambo]

That’s impressive, thanks for the insight. I’m not as mechanically inclined as you appear to be but that gives me an idea. My 460 in fuel injected and the portable water tank in under the couch which is located behind the drivers seat. I think I would only have to run it about 10 feet to reach the radiator. I’m going to get underneath it and see what this would require to install. There is already a hole in the firewall for fuses and plastic wire casing going to the engine, so maybe I can squeeze some pvc pipe in there versus drilling new hole. Any other issues you had with the 460 besides heat?

[4x4van]

My first 2 RVs were E350 class C (a 1979 23' Roll-a-Long, and a 1988 26' Jamboree) with the 460, although both of mine were carb, not FI. However, I live in SoCal, and cross the desert often in 100, 110, 120 degree heat. Both would get me across, but I had to really watch the temps. I realized that the heat coming off the pavement, at 120 degrees, and flowing through the radiator, was not very conducive to actually cooling the engine; I needed a way to actually cool the air before it hit the radiator. Believe it or not, I added a mist system.

I tapped into my fresh water system (after the water pump) and ran a small line (1/4" irrigation drip line) forward. I had a 1/4-turn valve in the line right where it passed the stepwell on the driver side, and mounted the valve so the the lever was accessible from the driver seat. The line then went forward to the grille, where I mounted 5 small mist nozzles (the type used for outdoor patios), spaced out around the front of the radiator just behind the grille.

On really hot grades, as I watched the needle slowly climb towards the "H" on the temp gauge, I would reach down and flip the valve. Almost immediately, the slow upward march of the needle would stop in it's tracks, and often even start dropping.

[maillemaker]

I plan to clean my radiator or perhaps upgrade to new heavy duty.

FYI, I tried the Prestone radiator flush and the Blue Devil radiator flush. Let them both sit in the system for a week of driving. Waste of time and money. These "mechanic in a bottle" treatments will not touch sediment concretions inside the radiator.

I did not appreciate the wisdom of using only distilled water in a coolant system. I do now. 🙂

Steve

[Toyoda]

I can get you pics of my setup later on, I have to pull the fridge out tomorrow.
I also ran a higher pressure front pump to increase the pressure on the fuel rail, which raises the boiling point. It's not a big increase, so I don't know if I truly gained anything but it made me feel good.

[fleetwoodjambo]

Toyoda,

Yes, thank you I’m under the impression it must be heat related primarily as I can’t duplicate the issue as the weather has been below ever since weekend of the initial occurrence. I need to explore ways to have it run cooler as you did it appears.

[Toyoda]

I have a 1990 jambo with the injected 460, and I've had the same problem.
Vapor lock.
It would do fine until I needed to climb a grade, she died on me a few times in the wonderful california heat (100+).

I added hood scoops to the hood, looks a little silly but it works great. I used dryer duct to help direct air over the exhaust manifolds.

I also removed the factory air intake going into the TB's and made my own. I also replaced my exhaust from the y-pipe all the way back.

I haven't had a problem since.

[-Lqdskier]

Also, don't rule out the ECU on the older Fords. My 1994 had a random miss that I chased for a couple years until I pulled the ECU and replaced leaking capacitors.

[77rollalong]

I would doubt that both fuel pumps would go bad at the same time, as each tank has its own fuel pump, as others said I would sway more towards the ignition module

[theoldwizard1]

fleetwoodjambo wrote:
Thanks for the info Steve, I plan to clean my radiator or perhaps upgrade to new heavy duty. In regards to the Ignition Control Module, I have checked the inside area of both fenders and its not mounted there on my 89 Fleetwood. I believe its on the side of my distributor ...

I don't know if Ford every released a separate cable for remote mounted TFI, but if you can find such one, getting the heat sink and mounting it on the fender would be a good idea.

[theoldwizard1]

maillemaker wrote:
But, people over on the E350 forum (see link above) were saying that it is not uncommon for the PIP sensor to go bad. The PIP is the profile ignition pickup (pip) sensor, otherwise known as a camshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, this sensor is inside the distributor, and it's generally easier to replace the entire distributor rather than disassemble it and replace it.

Admittedly it has been a VERY LONG TIME since I "played" with a PIP sensor or a TFI (Thick Film Ignition module), but my recollection was there were on a couple of screws/metric bolts that held it to the distributor housing. Fairly easy to replace.

Neither of theses device like high heat, but, IIRC, they would die completely (i.e. replacement was required)

maillemaker wrote:
Other suspects are the Engine Control Computer, ...

Highly unlikely. The EEC-IV was pretty bullet proof.

[bobm253]

Reading all this stuff makes me miss the old days when all we had to worry about was gas and spark. Ignition points, condenser and carburetor with an external fuel pump, gas filter and pcv valve. So easy to maintain, diagnose and fix. Never had to, or went to a dealer for repairs.

If I could, I would have my new vehicles the same way. They can keep all the fancy computers and modules after modules.

Anyway, good luck with your situation.

[fleetwoodjambo]

Thanks for the info Steve, I plan to clean my radiator or perhaps upgrade to new heavy duty. In regards to the Ignition Control Module, I have checked the inside area of both fenders and its not mounted there on my 89 Fleetwood. I believe its on the side of my distributor (but I cant see without moving intake and hoses), as this would make sense as to why it heats up as there is poor ventilation near my distributor. From what I have read, the ICM heats up and will cut engine. After cooling you can re-start and be on your way, but apparently after this happens a few time the ICM eventually burns out and needs replacement. I'm going to start with the ICM, as there is a white heat grease that you can add to create a heat barrier and keep it cooler. Since my issue occurred on a very hot day and I have not been able to duplicate since then, I could be chasing my tail, but having good spark and fuel I dont know what else could have caused my engine to die besides ICM? Thanks for the pics