billyboy wrote:
Hi, I read "duners" removal, and I don't remember him saying anything about bolts that lower the tray down, what did I miss?
Well,
It's been a while since I read his write-up but, if that section on how it's removed is missing or, he might have thought it was too obvious to take the time to write it, I don't know. But, I really hesitate to make assumptions that ALL COACHES with the basement air are the same but, if you don't have the four 1/2" x 13 x 4" bolts, I don't know how yours would descend and get to the point it will be able to slide out, onto whatever you've prepared for it to sit on, while you're doing the work.
Scott
kmb1966 wrote:
We have a 2001 Itasca with basement a/c. The basement a/c is working fine, cooling, all seems well inside. But outside the unit is sorta noisier than in the past, and somewhat squeaky. I'm only assuming this is from the outside blower because inside all is normal. I read somewhere that you need to lubricate the outside blower bearing area with some oil annually. I've never done this, and I don't know how. Do you have to remove the basement a/c from the motorhome bin to access the unit from the top to perform this annual 'lubrication'?
kmb1966,
Your basement air has a minimum of TWO BUSHINGS in there for shaft support. They are the old fashioned BRONZE, oil impregnated versions. But, as you've found out, the impregnated oil is dissipated. Now, here's the deal. Yes, there is a procedure that I read in I think, my coach owners manual for lubing those bushings. The basement A/C unit is a complete, single unit that is removed as a unit.
It sits on a "tray". The tray is held in place with (4), 1/2"x 13 x 4" bolts. As you turn the bolts counter clockwise, the tray begins to lower,like an elevator. Now, I don't know how much maintenance you do for yourself but, in reality, this is not a very hard job.
If you're interested in the procedure for removal, it basically goes like this:
1. The leuvered panel that is on the outside, is hinged at along the top side, just like a compartment door. However, there is no handle to raise it. It's held in place by screws from the side and bottom. Once the screws are removed, the panel will raise, basically 180 degrees to the point it's parallel with the coach. You can tape it up with some duct tape. No, you won't ruin the gel coat with duct tape. It comes right off.
2. Once the leuvered panel is raised and held in place, the next thing to do is, remove the screws that attach the A/C ducting at the lower left corner, as you stand and look at the unit. It can be a bit of a bear to get those out. You might need a right angle small, phillips screw driver to get those out. Once that duct is detached, it will simply back out of the way by just a few inches which, is all that's needed.
3. Now, you just lay under the A/C unit and, with a 1/2" drive ratchet and maybe a 6" extension with a 3/4" socket on it, start to back off those 1/2" bolts. The nuts are welded in place so, they won't move. A note here. It might be advisable to pre-lube those threads on those 1/2" bolts with some penetrant or WD-40 or anything of your choice so they back out easier.
4. As the entire A/C unit lowers, you'll begin to see the top side of it, just come into sight, right along the hinge line of the panel you tilted up. Once the top of the unit is below the hinge line, the entire unit can now be slid out, onto something that is of equal height. Maybe some buckets with 2"x4" on them or, whatever would be equal to the height the unit is, when it's in the lowered position, ready to slide out.
5.Winnebago setup enough wiring, in a coil, that allows for that entire unit to be slid out and worked on, right along side the coach. Then, once any and all work is completed, you can go in the coach and operate that A/C unit from the controls in the coach, and it will run just fine, sitting on whatever platform you've positioned for it.
Now, once the unit is out, you can now begin to remove the top side sheet metal. That will reveal most of the inner guts of the entire unit. You will see the bronze bushing with the fan shaft going through it. You will also see, an old fashioned, spring loaded door, that you have to lift up so you can drip some oil onto the bushings outer surface. The oil will wick through the bronze and lubricate the shaft.
Now, here's the real smart thing to do. Many of us have replaced that bronze bushing with a pillow pack sealed bearing, that's the correct specs and dimensions. I got mine from Graingers. I think it was around $19 or so. SERIOUS improvement in noise reduction and efficiency. And it's a very easy job to do. I have a part number and pictures but, posting them on RV.net is a pain in the b..t compared to other RV forums. So, if anyone is interested, I'd be glad to send the part number and maybe figure out how to post the pics.
As far as putting that A/C unit back in. All you have to do is, reverse all the outlined procedures above and, it's back in and running. Hope this helps some.
Scott
P.S. I"m not the one who developed this stuff. There's a very good friend of mine who's user name is "Duner" from other RV forums. He's the one who originally outlined and documented all of what's needed for this repair procedure. Thanks goes to him.
Scott
