A/C Lovers look here

[EddieJ1969]

We have been looking at purchasing our first RV. Have looked at a bunch of Class C coaches and Class A coaches. Currently we are leaning towards an Class A due to most having two A/C units. We enjoy a nice cool place to sleep and retreat from the heat. We do like some of the Class C layouts but are concerned about comfort when it gets 90 degrees outside and humid. Looking for some Class C owners who like it cool/cold to chime in regarding their experience in their Class C.

Thanks!!

Eddie

[pnichols]

From what I'm reading elsewhere - and it certainly makes sense - a 30 amp RV with two 13.5K air conditioners can be used plugged only into a single 30 amp pedestal with both air conditioners running ... IF both air conditioners have an EasyStart kit installed on them:
https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters

[Davidjc]

We just bought a Class C Forester 3011DS. 2018 year model. It has the Atwood A/C 1500 btu (supposedly with 18000 output).
Pros, Very Quiet, Cools plenty on moderate days
Cons, never turns off because compressor cycles but fans runs all the time unless you turn it off at panel, Several registers (vents) have little or NO airflow coming out of them, No enough on hot days.
No matter what the sales folks tell you, this 32' coach should have 2 a/c option. The most important things to cooling it on a hot day is to start the night before and the never let it get hot again. It can maintain cool but takes a while to actually cool down a hot interior where the furniture, walls, bedding and roof is radiating heat.
Good news is, Forest River reports that one of the Forester coaches will have 2nd A/C option next year. However, it'll still be 30 amp coach. Needs 50amp with 2 A/Cs even if second A/C is only 11,000 btu.

[OLYLEN]

Lots of little things. Look fir RV with double pane windows. Use vent pillows, Lower awning to shade side. Make a screen between cab and house and cover cab windscreen, put shades not viewing through. Make skylight cover and start cooling early.

LEN

[EddieJ1969]

Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated. We are renting a 2018 CLass C Coachmen Freelander 31BH in August so I guess that will give me some real world feedback. We are still leaning towards purchasing a Class A, but this should give us a pretty decent baseline.

Eddie

[Rhigley]

I have a class "C" 31 foot Four winds with a 13500 BTU/ac and it will not cool my RV down during the day. I was thinking of replacing the AC with a 15000BTU/AC but wondering if it would make a big enough difference with my RV. Thinking about putting the 13500 I already have in the bedroom but I only have a 30 amp service and not sure if the bedroom is already pre-wired for Ac.

[Chum_lee]

pnichols wrote: "One nice feature of a Class C motorhome built on a Ford chassis with the V10 engine is ... for a fast cool-down in scorching weather one can both run the rooftop A/C using hookups or a generator - while at the same time idling the V10 engine with the cab A/C set on high settings for awhile. We have used both of these air conditioners at times for super cooling under scorching heat conditions. Ford E-Series chassis have cab A/C systems with tremendous capacity - well beyond single rooftop RV units."

Yes. This works well with the Class A F-53 (V-10) Ford chassis too. It's not very efficient but it does work well. You can do the same thing with the chassis heater and the coach FAU. (Forced Air Unit) Closing the AC roof vents (if you have them) in the stateroom also helps cool the main area for day use if you aren't using the stateroom.

Chum lee

[Photomike]

I only run A/C during the day in my class C. Now saying that around here is usually drops at night to a nice sleeping temp and not a lot of humidity. If I was needing an A/C at night I would not want the unit close to me when sleeping as they are loud.

[bobndot]

pnichols wrote:
As some have hinted above, it also matters how an A/C is ducted and used.

Our small 24 foot Itasca (Winnebago) Class C has a single 13.5K BTU A/C, but it is fully ducted in the ceiling along the entire length of the motorhome, including in the ceiling area above the cabover bed. Each duct can be individually opened or closed, including any amount in between. This really makes it possible to configure the A/C's output to any conditions and, IMHO, is the best way to make an RV's A/C maximally effective.

We haven't tried Florida yet, but so far on RV trips in the Texas Panhandle and the Southern U.S. during July and August ... our single A/C unit with it's ducting system has been adequate whether hookup camping or dry camping using the built-in generator.

One nice feature of a Class C motorhome built on a Ford chassis with the V10 engine is ... for a fast cool-down in scorching weather one can both run the rooftop A/C using hookups or a generator - while at the same time idling the V10 engine with the cab A/C set on high settings for awhile. We have used both of these air conditioners at times for super cooling under scorching heat conditions. Ford E-Series chassis have cab A/C systems with tremendous capacity - well beyond single rooftop RV units.

x2.

on a side note, there are some 24 ft units that have those large roof skylights that allow so much heat penetration you could bake a cake under them, owners have been adding 50 amp service and a second 15,000 a/c unit on 24/25 ft'rs, what a crazy expense !

[TxOily]

2017 Jayco Greyhawk 29W came with two A/C units and we use them in the same manner as larry cad. Turn both on to cool down, then alternate depending on our location in the coach. Just to make certain, the 4KW generator will easily run both.

[markaviles]

I just purchased a 2016 Minnie Winnie 31H, 1 a/c, and took it out for the first time to Nevada treasures RV park in Pahrump Nevada...it was 104 degrees outside. it took a little longer to cool down but I had to wake up in the middle of the night to raise the temp on the a/c ..it was way too cold (by the way it was still 95 outside the rv at 0200)

[pnichols]

As some have hinted above, it also matters how an A/C is ducted and used.

Our small 24 foot Itasca (Winnebago) Class C has a single 13.5K BTU A/C, but it is fully ducted in the ceiling along the entire length of the motorhome, including in the ceiling area above the cabover bed. Each duct can be individually opened or closed, including any amount in between. This really makes it possible to configure the A/C's output to any conditions and, IMHO, is the best way to make an RV's A/C maximally effective.

We haven't tried Florida yet, but so far on RV trips in the Texas Panhandle and the Southern U.S. during July and August ... our single A/C unit with it's ducting system has been adequate whether hookup camping or dry camping using the built-in generator.

One nice feature of a Class C motorhome built on a Ford chassis with the V10 engine is ... for a fast cool-down in scorching weather one can both run the rooftop A/C using hookups or a generator - while at the same time idling the V10 engine with the cab A/C set on high settings for awhile. We have used both of these air conditioners at times for super cooling under scorching heat conditions. Ford E-Series chassis have cab A/C systems with tremendous capacity - well beyond single rooftop RV units.

[JumboJet]

Just added 2nd AC to our 31' Class C. 100-110f in CA,AZ, & NV was too hot for just one.

[valhalla360]

For sleeping, it' rare to need 2 air/con units. Without the sun beating down, it's much easier to cool an RV.

As others have mentioned, size matters more than class. A new 35' Class C will typically come with 2 air/con units. A small 25' Class A will likely have 1 air/con unit. What you are seeing is Class A units typically are larger than Class C (but of course there are exceptions)

[ronfisherman]

suprz wrote:
Not sure, but do some Super C's have 2 A/C's? But you are talking over 35 ft in length

My 35' Super C had 2 A/C's. It also had 50 amp shore power. Very seldom used both at same time.