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Fiberglass to fix shower base

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
I have a cracked shower base that is causing a leak in my Outback 300rb. There is little support under the shower which has caused with flexing over time a crack. Has anyone had success fixing something like this with fiberglass? I have never used it but would like to repair without having to buy a new base. The first step will be to reinforce underneath to eliminate the flex.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra
11 REPLIES 11

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
I took it to my local RV repair shop and they added more support, replaced the cracked PVC pee trap and all is good.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

mike77leprechau
Explorer
Explorer
I fixed one with jb weld then painted over it with krylon fusion to match. the repair lasted the 3 years I had it and was fine when I traded it in
Current Rig: 2018 Forest River Salem 32BHI Towed with a 2017 Ram 1500 Big Horn 4x4-5.7 Hemi/4x4/3.92/8 Speed Auto

"You should really invest in a Diesel 1 ton to properly tow that popup"

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
Too late for you, but for others reading this: silicone was a poor choice. It's near impossible to get it all removed (even if it looks like it's gone) and nothing sticks to it.

Functionally fixing it is easy. Use a marine grade epoxy (not the putty stuff you find in the automotive aisle). You can use the fiberglass cloth from the auto aisle. READ THE DIRECTIONS. It's not hard but lots of people mess up the process. Google West System, they have awesome documentation and guides. Brush on a thin layer then lay out the cloth over the crack extending beyond the crack. Then brush on more until it is clear with no bubbles (it's messy and sticky so plan on how to keep it from getting everywhere). When it is cured, sand off any stray fibers sticking up (they will stab you otherwise)

Functionally, you can put it on the top but it will look ugly. If you can pull the tub and do it on the bottom it will look better but the crack will still be there with the layer underneath stopping the leak.

If you want it to look really good, you need to grind out and feather in the crack and then re-gell coat. Unless you are already good at fiber glassing, probably cheaper and easier to just buy a new tub and install it. The problem is it's thin to start with so getting a little crazy with the sanding and you can go right thru.

PS: This all assumes you provide better support or it will just repeat.


Thanks this is very helpful. If the silicone doesn't stop the leak, I'll do my best to remove it and use your suggestions (any suggestions how?). The crack is hairline and about 4 inches so perhaps if I cover it well beyond the 4 inches i will be good. It doesn't have to be perfect, as long as the leak stops. I did add support underneath which reduced the flex by about 90%.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

valhalla360
Nomad
Nomad
Too late for you, but for others reading this: silicone was a poor choice. It's near impossible to get it all removed (even if it looks like it's gone) and nothing sticks to it.

Functionally fixing it is easy. Use a marine grade epoxy (not the putty stuff you find in the automotive aisle). You can use the fiberglass cloth from the auto aisle. READ THE DIRECTIONS. It's not hard but lots of people mess up the process. Google West System, they have awesome documentation and guides. Brush on a thin layer then lay out the cloth over the crack extending beyond the crack. Then brush on more until it is clear with no bubbles (it's messy and sticky so plan on how to keep it from getting everywhere). When it is cured, sand off any stray fibers sticking up (they will stab you otherwise)

Functionally, you can put it on the top but it will look ugly. If you can pull the tub and do it on the bottom it will look better but the crack will still be there with the layer underneath stopping the leak.

If you want it to look really good, you need to grind out and feather in the crack and then re-gell coat. Unless you are already good at fiber glassing, probably cheaper and easier to just buy a new tub and install it. The problem is it's thin to start with so getting a little crazy with the sanding and you can go right thru.

PS: This all assumes you provide better support or it will just repeat.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
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Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
old guy wrote:
my first TT had this problem also. be sure you pt plenty of support under there. one may not be enough. they make fiberglass you can sand down so it doesn't cut your feet


Good to know thanks.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
I just assumed I would remove the silicone if it does not work?

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

_1nobby
Explorer
Explorer
Oldcow wrote:
I also used some silicone and will see if this works.


Well I hope that works because it's hard to find anything to stick to a siliconed surface.

old_guy
Explorer
Explorer
my first TT had this problem also. be sure you pt plenty of support under there. one may not be enough. they make fiberglass you can sand down so it doesn't cut your feet

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
naturist wrote:
Be sure to use epoxy resin rather than polyester.


Thanks for the suggestions guys. Tonight I jammed a 2X4 underneath and it made quite a difference. I also used some silicone and will see if this works. If not this is plan B. May I ask why epoxy vs polyester?

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

naturist
Nomad
Nomad
Be sure to use epoxy resin rather than polyester.

NMDriver2
Explorer
Explorer
Kitty Hair will fix it.link
Turret Class traveler