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WF 8955 converter 12 volt fue panel problem

jgiuffre
Explorer
Explorer
The problem is not the converter.
The problem is in the 12volt fuse panel.
I have voltage on the side that shouldn't have any when the fuse is removed. about 10 volts
It does it on all fuse slots
Also one of the red lights is on even when the fuse is good.
21 REPLIES 21

Cydog15
Explorer
Explorer
mike-s wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
5 MILLI amps of bleed can cause a 5-volt potential exist in a switched buss, try it with reality instead of a calculator and sharp pencil.
Do you have a coherent point? To get a 5 volt source to move 5 mA, the resistance would be 1000 ohms. Any voltmeter is magnitudes higher, as I said, 10,000,000 is common. Not that that has anything to do with anything - you claimed putting a voltmeter across the (bad) fuse would kill the LED. It won't. You only know enough about electronics to be dangerous, as you prove time and time again in your unique form of gibberish.

I think both of you are doing a discredit to the OP and readers and haven't taught anybody ****. Maybe stroked your ego a little. He didn't ask anything like that. You guys are having a tech discussion within general questions about simple stuff and look like idiots to us trying to learn the ANSWER TO THE EFING QUESTION THAT WAS POSTED. I'd start with teaching how to use a multi meter. How helpful would that be?

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
mike-s wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
5 MILLI amps of bleed can cause a 5-volt potential exist in a switched buss, try it with reality instead of a calculator and sharp pencil.
Do you have a coherent point? To get a 5 volt source to move 5 mA, the resistance would be 1000 ohms. Any voltmeter is magnitudes higher, as I said, 10,000,000 is common. Not that that has anything to do with anything - you claimed putting a voltmeter across the (bad) fuse would kill the LED. It won't. You only know enough about electronics to be dangerous, as you prove time and time again in your unique form of gibberish.


Having a bad morning? Have another cup of Joe lol.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
5 MILLI amps of bleed can cause a 5-volt potential exist in a switched buss, try it with reality instead of a calculator and sharp pencil.
Do you have a coherent point? To get a 5 volt source to move 5 mA, the resistance would be 1000 ohms. Any voltmeter is magnitudes higher, as I said, 10,000,000 is common. Not that that has anything to do with anything - you claimed putting a voltmeter across the (bad) fuse would kill the LED. It won't. You only know enough about electronics to be dangerous, as you prove time and time again in your unique form of gibberish.

jgiuffre
Explorer
Explorer
I got the new panel and it solved the problem

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
5 MILLI amps of bleed can cause a 5-volt potential exist in a switched buss, try it with reality instead of a calculator and sharp pencil. 3mm LEDs are incredibly prone to lighting up at voltages that are outrageously low. Having built so many indicator panels with LED and piezo annunciators taught me a lesson in reality.

Good meters have high impedance. But when a dime store meter cancels a ganged bleed of (one LED) it will have you scratching your head -- have fun ๐Ÿ™‚

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
A simple voltmeter voltage check across that fuse should kill the LED 5-volts potential is more than enough to fire a 3mm LED with resistor.
Nonsense. Voltmeters are high impedance. 10M is common, even for the free-with-purchase Harbor Freight ones. Even the ancient and cheap ones with a needle display are usually 20K or more.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ok, believe it or not you posted most everything I need to figure it out.. I have a progressive Dynamics panel. works same way But it is a "Stand Alone" panel.

First the RED LIGHT (LED) are you sure you are checking the correct fuse? Also sometimes an LED may be there for reasons other than blown fuse indication.

On my PD panel the LED's do not line up exactly and as A result I always have to check TWO fuses when I blow one.

As for the 10 volts

The way the LED's work is like this....

Batt---fuse-----------------------load
Batt---LED--Resistor--------------Load

That to say the LED and it's pass resistor are in PARALLEL with the fuse.

What you are seeing is voltage passed by the LED when the load is off.
Turn the Load (IE: LIght) on and that voltage should go to ZERO unless the light is also an LED.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Cydog15
Explorer
Explorer
Bad fuse panel would be rare and surprising. We might not hear from him again but I still have doubt.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Psychic troubleshooting always has had a few glitches...

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks for the resolution. Not sure we could have found that definitively.

jgiuffre
Explorer
Explorer
Everything checked out OK , converter etc
I contacted factory and was told I have a bad fuse panel.
I ordered a replacement panel

Thanks for the help

ChuckSteed
Explorer
Explorer
Iโ€™d disconnect converter from distribution panel bus bar and measure DC output kfnconverter. Should be over 13 volts. If not troubleshoot converter.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
A simple voltmeter voltage check across that fuse should kill the LED 5-volts potential is more than enough to fire a 3mm LED with resistor.

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
The red light is a diode (LED) and will block a bit of voltage and will pass a bit of current to indicate a bad fuse when the circuit tries to draw some current.

Check the fuse with your meter and re-install a good fuse. This should give full voltage and no light.