P32 sticking rear caliper

[jspringator]

I drove my 2002 Winnebago Sightseer 27c P32 for the first time in a couple of months. I had to a little bit aggresively apply the brakes at a light. When I started up again, the engine labored more than usual. When I parked, I noticed the smell of brake material. After it cooled a while, I applied the brakes and they went to the floor and the brake light came on. I waited about 45 minutes and tried again. The light was on, but when I pushed the pedal ALL the way down the brake light went off and stayed off. It is possible that there was some brake fluid where the driver's rear had been. There is an unexplained stain that hasn't evaperated.

In any event, after pumping the brakes they appear better than they were before, Before I hit a spot that was very hard to push through. Now, the brakes are easier to apply and appear to have more pedal. I'm not naive enough to believe they have healed.

My hypothesis is bad brake hose that somehow temporarily straightened cleared out. I'm sure round 2 is coming, and I'm leaving Wednesday for a 5 day trip where I will be moving most of the time.

There is no way to inspect the brake hose, so I probably need to get them anyway.

Any ideas? It is the brake fluid part that has me concerned. I'm taking it to a mechanic on Monday, but I want to have an idea of the problem before I take it.

[jspringator]

Got everything in last summer. Had the mechanic pull all the pins and lube with the Permatex lube. They also had to replace one of the rigid lines too. Brakes are much improved, but they still take some effort.

[tropical36]

jspringator wrote:
Almost everything is in. The Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube has been ordered, as has the Castrol 12614 Dot 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid. Apparently the Valvoline SynPower is no longer available. This stuff is for high temp applications; like racing or a motorhome in the mountains.

Valvoline SynPower is motor oil, is it not?
As for a higher temp. compatible brake fluid, try 5.1, although I don't see the need for it.... Click 5.1

[jspringator]

Almost everything is in. The Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube has been ordered, as has the Castrol 12614 Dot 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid. Apparently the Valvoline SynPower is no longer available. This stuff is for high temp applications; like racing or a motorhome in the mountains.

[tropical36]

jspringator wrote:
Ended up getting the fronts from Mill Supply. Precision Sales never emailed me back. With shipping, both were right at $100. I'll save the old hoses in the event I try the stainless experiment.

I plan to get the calipers inspected, rebuilt if necessary, slider pins lubed with Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, brake system flushed with Valvoline SynPower brake fluid (3 quarts).

I guess my only question is whether the calipers can be adequately inspected.

Since I had most of it all apart, anyway, I just replaced the calipers with rebuilt from NAPA and not all that expensive.
Was still working as good as new, when we sold the coach, two years ago.

[RLS7201]

jspringator wrote:

I guess my only question is whether the calipers can be adequately inspected.

Kind of. Pull the dust boot back from the caliper piston and see if there is any dust, dirt, crud, rust if metal pistons, etc built up on the piston. If clean, see if the piston will push back in the bore with ease. If clean and the piston pushes back with ease, I would reuse it. If dirty or sticky, rebuild or replace.

Richard

[jspringator]

Ended up getting the fronts from Mill Supply. Precision Sales never emailed me back. With shipping, both were right at $100. I'll save the old hoses in the event I try the stainless experiment.

I plan to get the calipers inspected, rebuilt if necessary, slider pins lubed with Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, brake system flushed with Valvoline SynPower brake fluid (3 quarts).

I guess my only question is whether the calipers can be adequately inspected.

[Stim]

It's been a while since I changed the hoses on a Chevy but I do remember they had specific brackets for mounting to frame and directing hose to keep it from rubbing or getting pinched.

[MountainAir05]

If you go stainless braid system, then it really does not take that one to make one. Here is a link on how it it done. I did my 99 in just a few hours. I use just hose and did not add any metal tube as the old front ones had. The issues I had was finding the banjo fitting for a Ford. Not sure if you Chevy uses them or not.
Most 4 Wheeler shop has them now or on-line .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDOAv87y45c

[jspringator]

If there are metal pieces he has to use to make them up then he will have to have the originals. Is it something he will be able to do? Should I try to find the part someplace? I got the Workhorse part numbers; I'm sure I can get someone to cross reference them. I was thinking the stainless would be a far superior part.

[tropical36]

jspringator wrote:
I got the rear and crossover rear at O'Rileys. I found a place that can make up the front in stainless steel braid. Based on my experience with using SS braid with motorcycles, this should firm up the pedal.

He suggested I bring the hose in. That could create a problem in the shop because they would have to take it off and let this thing sit until the new hose arrived. Looks like the front and rear calipers are the same (side to side). Are the hose ends the same for the front as they are for the rear? If so, I could just show him the rears I have and he can make them up based on that, as long as I have the length.

Does anyone have the length?

There's a lot more to it than that, along with a big difference between the 79-96 and 97-99 P32 chassis. The latter has a longer metal tube, that's bent in quite a few places. I can only assume that the later years remained that way, as well.
If I was to get them made up, I'd take them off and have the shop put the new rubber on the metal tubing and maybe for copying the fixed tubing, also if one should want new or SS.
It's always a problem for me with trying to upload a pic here and now getting an error with using the site I once had success with.
Still, if you pm me with an addy, I'll send you pics of the two versions or to anyone else and maybe with someone who knows how to upload something here.

[jspringator]

I got the rear and crossover rear at O'Rileys. I found a place that can make up the front in stainless steel braid. Based on my experience with using SS braid with motorcycles, this should firm up the pedal.

He suggested I bring the hose in. That could create a problem in the shop because they would have to take it off and let this thing sit until the new hose arrived. Looks like the front and rear calipers are the same (side to side). Are the hose ends the same for the front as they are for the rear? If so, I could just show him the rears I have and he can make them up based on that, as long as I have the length.

Does anyone have the length?

[Gjac]

jspringator wrote:
Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. I did fill up the hydroboost resevoir that was on cold fill when hot. He thinks that caused it. I think it is the hoses. I'm going to replace them when I get back.

Where can I order a set of aftermarket brake hoses? He says he can't get them. I checked an Autozone and I know they can't order them.

I found my front hoses at Napa and rear at Orielly's. I found I can find more parts if you tell the clerk Chevy P-30 chassis and the year. I would completely disassemble the rear brakes and remove all rust with a wire wheel use the hi temp silicone grease to lube and reassemble. I just gravity drain my fluid by jacking the front up and allowing the old fluid to drain out installing new fluid when the reservoir is almost empty. When the fluid comes out clear I bleed the drivers side rear next then go to the passenger front then drivers side front. Beside the hose and sticking caliper slide it could also be the rubber seal/ around the caliper piston not returning the piston for clearance causing the brakes to drag. I know your mechanic said it looked good to him and it could have been just a rusted caliper slide that you freed up by use, but I would at least drive it locally step on the brake many times and see if that caliper is hotter than the others before I took it on a long trip.

[fyrflie]

Check out this website for part numbers.
http://www.oemys-performance.com/whpartspxx.htm#p32brakes

If you have time to order parts, then get them here.
https://www.rockauto.com

If you prefer to get parts locally then most part stores should carry Raybestos parts.

I ordered the Raybestos hoses from rock auto for my 2001 P32 and they were an exact fit.

Good luck.

[tropical36]

jspringator wrote:
Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. I did fill up the hydroboost resevoir that was on cold fill when hot. He thinks that caused it. I think it is the hoses. I'm going to replace them when I get back.

Where can I order a set of aftermarket brake hoses? He says he can't get them. I checked an Autozone and I know they can't order them.

Workhorse or Chev P chassis, call
Buddy at Precision Sales.
451 64th. Place South
Birmingham, AL. 35212
Phone (205) 591-2266
Toll Free (877) 403-7827

Just make sure you have you VIN handy so he can get you the correct part.
I found that after 1996 or so, the front hoses were different and next to impossible to find. This guy had them, but not cheap and I think the price might have went up even more, since then and some years ago, when we had our P32.
Never hurts to email a photo, too.