โJun-18-2018 04:31 PM
โJun-19-2018 05:22 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
MONSTER 17 volt units for automotive
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-X-15KP17CA-R-6-VISHAY/332599143227?hash=item4d70742b3b:g:Zj0AAOSwihpau...
โJun-19-2018 04:17 PM
โJun-19-2018 04:04 PM
โJun-19-2018 03:55 PM
โJun-19-2018 03:42 PM
wa8yxm wrote:
I see a lot of comments that are proper for the power dropping when the compressor kicks IN. but he said it happens when the compressor kicks OUT.
I do not know if the RV has an inverter or a "Surge Guard" but ....
Some inverters do not switch over fast enough to prevent reset on SOME clocks.
And there are many parallels between electricity and water. For example we speak of the FLOW of electrical current (And for good reasons)
Wires are like pipes Too small a wire and you loose voltage as current increases
Too small a pipe.. Pressure as Flow Rate (Amprage or GPM) increases.
Well unless you have some devices called water hammer arresters when you suddenly shut off the flow of water.. The PIPES rattle.
If you had a very responsive pressure gauge at the faucet you'd see a SPIKE in pressure, followed by some rollarcoasting and finally normal pressure.
Same with electricity. This is a SURGE which the guard will cut you off for. And by the time the inverter kicks in the clock resets.
โJun-19-2018 03:22 PM
โJun-19-2018 02:30 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
OK time to tinker. Need INCANDESCENT lamp fixture. Remember the old fashioned threaded light bulbs? Yes that kind.
Put on same LEG as A/C
It should flicker-brighter when A/C cycles off. Flicker means exactly that a momentary flash then possible outage.
Automatic
Transfer
Switch
Generator/Shore power
โJun-19-2018 02:24 PM
โJun-19-2018 02:20 PM
time2roll wrote:lawrosa wrote:Neutral is the white wire. Generally black or red are the hots.time2roll wrote:
OK now check each junction along the way to the RV and see where it jumps to 135+
I speculate you will find a loose or corroded neutral wire connection.
Must be out at the outlet?
I tightened all neutrals while I was in panel.
( Umm I don't think they are really called neutrals. Isnt that on a 4 wire? Isn't it common on 3 wire?
I believe Common vs Neutral is the same thing. Although branch circuits are just 120v they still share the neutral(common) with the other side of the panel.
High voltage in a split phase system is generally created when a shared neutral has a poor connection and does not carry the imbalanced load properly. Since the main panel has correct voltage there must be something down stream. Could be in the RV itself. Measure under load as no load will have no issues.
Posted 120v at the panel and 135v in the RV. There must be a point where that changes. Is there a sub-panel?
โJun-19-2018 02:10 PM
lawrosa wrote:Neutral is the white wire. Generally black or red are the hots.time2roll wrote:
OK now check each junction along the way to the RV and see where it jumps to 135+
I speculate you will find a loose or corroded neutral wire connection.
Must be out at the outlet?
I tightened all neutrals while I was in panel.
( Umm I don't think they are really called neutrals. Isnt that on a 4 wire? Isn't it common on 3 wire?
โJun-19-2018 02:04 PM
โJun-19-2018 01:40 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
My TOO cents is on
Inductive reaction in the ATS switch. Great enough to monetarily stun the relay coils. Put an analog AC voltmeter on the AC power line and watch the needle flicker, A few TVRs would cure it. Get the bi-directional ones. Easy to use. 180+ volts rating otter do'er.
โJun-19-2018 01:38 PM
time2roll wrote:
OK now check each junction along the way to the RV and see where it jumps to 135+
I speculate you will find a loose or corroded neutral wire connection.
โJun-19-2018 12:29 PM