Good combinations for my tow vehicle???

[SoonerWing03]

Tow vehicle is a 2017 Chevy Tahoe LT 4x4
TV GVWR 7,300
TV Tow Rating 8400 (HD Trailering package)
5.3 L V8 w/ 3.4 rear axle
Remaining payload according to the door: 1588

Brake control: To be purchased. Brand and model suggestions welcomed
WD hitch with sway control: To be purchased. Brand and model suggestions welcomed. (Dealers want $650 to $700 for purchase and install)

Driver and passengers: 600 lbs
HItch weight: 80 lbs

Option 1
Apex Ultra-Lite 24LE
UVW: 4392 lbs
GVWR: 6500 lbs
Length: 27’ 6”

Option 2
Gulf Stream Cabin Cruiser 25BHS
UVW: 4624 lbs
GVWR: 7500
Length: 27’ 2”

Both of these rigs have fairly significant gaps between the UVW and the GVWR. Since I will not load anywhere close to the trailers remaining capacity, I am using the UVW and adding 1500 lbs (which will still be more than I would ever load). Also, I am aware that the UVW figure is relatively irrelevant but I believe that it is in the ballpark of the shipping weight of the vehicle. Unfortunately, neither of these models are within 150 miles of me :R

I think I have a pretty decent grasp on the weight, but not as sure on what I can and should pull from a length perspective or even more so, the combination of the weight and length.

Let me say that this forum, and the people contributing to it, have been amazing at offering advice and real world experience. I can not thank you enough for taking the time to share your wisdom and knowledge with me and my family.

I sincerely thank you.

[bobndot]

I found the link below to answer your questions


Good suggestion to look at the trailer axles used and the tire as well as axle rating of any TT you consider. This is one of the problems when people try to acquire living space and keeping it light in order to tow with a marginal TV.
Sacrifices are made in the construction to make it lighter especially in the 'frame' or 'rib-cage stud spacing' and sometimes they just don't hold up as well as a better built 'non-lightweight' unit. ...don't overload it...pack light, keep an eye on the frame welds. Some welders are marginal welders . Also, keep an eye on all the seams for caulking gaps and cracking . Check things frequently and use the correct caulks and sealants to maintain it is the key.

I got lucky in finding this info for you as per your specific questions.
Take a look at what owners are saying who have been down the same road. I just happened to find some info here on the AS forum. It covers the TV and hitch suggestions. Towing in crosswinds and wheelbase suggestions to match TT lengths.

If you find at the end of the day, you might have to be willing to fine tune your TT floorplan choice. Keep in mind slideouts weigh an average of 500# for a small one. I picked a non-slide floorplan with aluminum siding to save weight to enable me to tow using a 1500 truck. I had to make sacrifices to make it work without giving up on it. Just something to consider if you feel this won't work before giving up on it. It worked well for me, I'm very happy now with an easy tow and no slide issues to worry about and a TT that's flawless where everything always fires up and it doesn't LEAK . 🙂

Filon siding adds weight over alum.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463/can-i-tow-a-28a-with-a-chevy-tahoe-166160.html

[SoonerWing03]

Those lengths are indeed the overall lengths of the trailers. Should I just be concerned with the length of the trailer body and not the extra ~4 feet for the tongue? The actual body of both of these trailers are in the 24’ range.

What would be considered a “high end WD hitch with anti-sway”. My plan is to have an OEM break controller installed and do whatever it is that I need to do to make this safe, including a nice WD anti-sway hitch, new tires, etc.. At the end of the day if we just cant get what we want and be safely in the ballpark of recomended numbers (weights & lengths etc.), then we just wont be able to do it.

Unfortunately, the trailers mentioned above are as light and as short as I have been able to find for the floorplan that we want.

[Lynnmor]

I believe the lengths quoted are the overall length. Both would be at the upper end of what I would tow with a Tahoe, but I think they are doable. When I look at the gross weight, it tells me that the Apex probably skimped on tires and/or axles, so take a good look at those and search for what is available when you want to replace the tires. My grandson bought an Apex a few years ago, it is a piece of junk, maybe there has been some improvement.

[bartlettj]

I think both of those trailers are a bit too long for a Tahoe, I wouldn't go higher than 25 feet unless you buy a really high end anti sway hitch and upgrade to LT tires. I found my Tahoe to be on the verge of uncomfortable (very bouncy) with my 25 foot Passport (5k lbs) and I've upgraded to a 2500HD. The truck is overkill for that trailer but I want to go bigger soon.

[bobndot]

#1 , I applaud you for taking the time to research the mechanics of this on a professional level to insure the safety of your family as well the rest of the people on the road. (people like me :B )

Re: those two TT choices is splitting hairs, they both seem pretty close and I would pick the floorplan that suits you and the other person using it because if everyone is not happy.....u know the rest .

With ALL TT's, it's about tweaking things to make it a little more solid and livable and you have to expect to be doing those little 'fix-me-up repairs' in this rv thing we do.
That's why a good dealer will take the time to do that tweaking before you pick it up and not leave it up to you or be wasting your time going back there.
These RV mfg.'s leave this all up to the dealer to make sure the shades, tv's and water pumps and everything else works, the mfg.'s do not do it, they just slop them together and push them out the door.

I think the Tahoe could work well enough if you take the time to get it set up right. Expect your real 'rolling down the road' tongue weight to be about 12-15% of your gross weight.


Some hitch companies believe it's best to eliminate or minimize the possibility of sway rather try to control it after it occurs.
IMO, I think the WD hitch itself as well as the setup (installation and adjustment) will be most critical when using a shorter wheelbase TV (tow veh) such as a Tahoe.
Shorter WB vehicles tend to experience front end lift which makes steering lighter, increases chance to sway. Handling in general may be compromised if the hitch is not set up incorrectly. It can cause a driver to try to over-correct, worsening the sway situation.

You can minimize this by choosing the correct hitch and doing your own 'setup' research to get it right . I think that's the best advice regarding your Tahoe and it's ability to control the TT, not the other way around.

You can start by reading the below link to get a better 'general' understanding of what 'you' need to do and do not rely on a dealer to do it for you.
Hitch setup tutorial

Bob

[Lwiddis]

Wet and loaded I’m pulling 5100-5200 with my 2015 Tahoe. Another thousand or so would be my comfort limit. The rental suggestion of kerrlakeroo is a good one. I share Donn’s length concern.

[Second_Chance]

I pulled a 25', 7,400 lb. GVWR TT with an older (2005) Tahoe and, with a properly set up WD hitch, it did just fine. No sway. Your 6-speed transmission will perform even better on grades.

Check into having the OEM integrated trailer brake controller installed. They have anti-sway and other features that aftermarket units won't. If you have to go aftermarket, the Tekonsha P3 is a good choice.

Rob

[kerrlakeRoo]

Weight wise I think your fine. Since you appear dedicated to getting a TT and setting it up, why not rent one the size your looking at to see how it does towing that size? If you are comfortable, and still want to proceed , go for it.
You may also learn some things about what you want in a TT and change your mind on what you want/need.
Good luck

[donn0128]

Eithers weights would be OK. Your biggest issue with both is length. They are simply too long for such a short wheel based vehicle.