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Norcold 982IM Fridge Issues

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Issues with Norcold 982IM fridge in 1997 Tiffin Allegro. Won't work on AC or LP. Setting to auto, fridge will start on AC, then after 5-10 seconds switches to LP. LP starts, ignites, flames and then quits. Cycles back to AC, fails, back to LP, fails, etc.

When manually setting to AC, fridge will tone, flash and indicate an A4 error.

Checked converter and is working. No loose wires, all fuses tested and working. RV plugged into shore power, outlet has 120vAC, power board has 120vAC. Checked DC at board and is receiving 12vDC.
15 REPLIES 15

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have the same vintage Norcold and when this happened to me it was the cable connection from the eye brow to the white muti pin connector at the bottom of the board that was the issue. I cleaned the connections with an eraser at both ends and it worked again. If your lp shuts off after several mins it could be your ignighter needing adjusting or the burner being clogged with rust from your flue. In other words you may have two problems one AC and one lp. Good luck.

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
HadEnough wrote:
Ok. Sounds like you've narrowed it down. Annoying how often I read these boards go bad.

Never had a problem with any of my norcolds over the decades, but my diesel trucks and RVs have more than evened that good luck out. Ha ha ha

Best of luck getting the new board in and things back to normal.


Yeah, I sure hope so. Thanks for the assist in resolving (hopefully) my problem.

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
Ok. Sounds like you've narrowed it down. Annoying how often I read these boards go bad.

Never had a problem with any of my norcolds over the decades, but my diesel trucks and RVs have more than evened that good luck out. Ha ha ha

Best of luck getting the new board in and things back to normal.

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, I checked for 120vAC at the outlet, at the cord end, at the board, and at both ends of the fuse, all checked okay. I also checked for 12vDC at incoming terminals and at both sides of the fuse, all okay as well.

When it's set on manual to LP, it runs, but does display the A5 error on the front board.

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
And definitely there is a measured proper input voltage at the board from the AC cord?
.
Since it runs on LP, but throws A4 error, it may *not* be the board.

I'd double check that input voltage right on the board/transformer circuit.

Whatever senses that input voltage is the cause (don't know if the AC input voltage is sensed right on the board).
.
Fully possible error cycle is:

SET auto mode
Turn on fridge
Fridge selects AC as priority input
AC input measures too low (A4 error)
Fridge selects LP
Fridge lights LP successfully
Fridge checks to see if AC is present
AC IS present
Fridge selects AC
AC voltage too low
Fridge selects second priority (LP)
Fridge lights LP
Checks for AC
AC present switch to AC
REPEAT - infinite loop

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
The circuit board is not recognizing 120V AC so it swaps to LP which doesn't light off so it swaps back to AC...repeat/fail

Unplug AC leads from circuit board (power cord unplugged from AC Outlet)
Unplug DC leads from circuit board
Unplug spark/ignition wire from circuit board
Remove cover on circuit board
Unplug 5A AC fuse from circuit board (glass fuse)
Unplug 3A DC fuse from circuit board (auto blade fuse)

Check connector pins on leads and contacts on circuit board
With cover off
Install both fuses
Plug AC and DC leads back onto board
Plug AC cord into AC Outlet (verify it has power)

Test that there is AC Power on both sides of AC fuse and DC Power on both sides of DC Fuse

Got power both sides of fuses......try to operate fridge in AUTO
If fridge swaps back/forth then circuit board at fault


Followed your advice, fridge still swaps back & forth, so it must be the power board. Thanks for the quick assist!

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
HadEnough wrote:
What happens when it's manually set to LP?


Set it manually to LP and it stays running, although I do receive an A5 error.

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Oh yeah, I get it, I'm just confused. I understand the board not recognizing 120vAC and kicking over to LP, I'm just not sure why the LP ignites, runs and then fails to fully engage.

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
Donebee wrote:
So, if the board was bad, that could cause it to not sense the flame on LP and fail to fully engage?


Definitely.

But I wouldn't jump to that yet until you've isolated the problem to the circuit board.

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
So, if the board was bad, that could cause it to not sense the flame on LP and fail to fully engage?

Old-Biscuit
Explorer
Explorer
The circuit board is not recognizing 120V AC so it swaps to LP which doesn't light off so it swaps back to AC...repeat/fail

Unplug AC leads from circuit board (power cord unplugged from AC Outlet)
Unplug DC leads from circuit board
Unplug spark/ignition wire from circuit board
Remove cover on circuit board
Unplug 5A AC fuse from circuit board (glass fuse)
Unplug 3A DC fuse from circuit board (auto blade fuse)

Check connector pins on leads and contacts on circuit board
With cover off
Install both fuses
Plug AC and DC leads back onto board
Plug AC cord into AC Outlet (verify it has power)

Test that there is AC Power on both sides of AC fuse and DC Power on both sides of DC Fuse

Got power both sides of fuses......try to operate fridge in AUTO
If fridge swaps back/forth then circuit board at fault
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Can't specifically recall; I'll test that after work and let you know.

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
What happens when it's manually set to LP?

Donebee
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the reply; I already downloaded that specific document and tried all their suggestions, without any success.