โApr-21-2018 08:41 AM
โApr-22-2018 12:42 PM
โApr-22-2018 07:37 AM
HadEnough wrote:
Ok. Sounds like you've narrowed it down. Annoying how often I read these boards go bad.
Never had a problem with any of my norcolds over the decades, but my diesel trucks and RVs have more than evened that good luck out. Ha ha ha
Best of luck getting the new board in and things back to normal.
โApr-22-2018 07:28 AM
โApr-22-2018 06:06 AM
โApr-21-2018 04:57 PM
โApr-21-2018 03:37 PM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
The circuit board is not recognizing 120V AC so it swaps to LP which doesn't light off so it swaps back to AC...repeat/fail
Unplug AC leads from circuit board (power cord unplugged from AC Outlet)
Unplug DC leads from circuit board
Unplug spark/ignition wire from circuit board
Remove cover on circuit board
Unplug 5A AC fuse from circuit board (glass fuse)
Unplug 3A DC fuse from circuit board (auto blade fuse)
Check connector pins on leads and contacts on circuit board
With cover off
Install both fuses
Plug AC and DC leads back onto board
Plug AC cord into AC Outlet (verify it has power)
Test that there is AC Power on both sides of AC fuse and DC Power on both sides of DC Fuse
Got power both sides of fuses......try to operate fridge in AUTO
If fridge swaps back/forth then circuit board at fault
โApr-21-2018 03:35 PM
HadEnough wrote:
What happens when it's manually set to LP?
โApr-21-2018 12:12 PM
โApr-21-2018 11:45 AM
Donebee wrote:
So, if the board was bad, that could cause it to not sense the flame on LP and fail to fully engage?
โApr-21-2018 11:13 AM
โApr-21-2018 11:07 AM
โApr-21-2018 11:01 AM
โApr-21-2018 10:59 AM
โApr-21-2018 10:02 AM