cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Towing Car On A Trailer - Weight Limit

DallasSteve
Nomad
Nomad
I plan to buy a motorhome and tow my car, a Subaru Crosstrek, on a trailer. It can't be flat-towed and I don't know if it can be dinghy-towed. I want about a 35-foot class A motorhome with a gas engine. Looking at RV Trader it seems that most have a towing limit of 5,000 pounds. The Crosstrek is listed at 3,200 pounds and most metal trailers I've seen weigh about 2,000 pounds. So that puts me a little over the limit. What to do?

I've considered a few options:

1 - Look for a gas motorhome that is rated a little higher
2 - Look for a trailer that is a little lighter
3 - Tow it a little over the limit
4 - Fill my Crosstrek with helium balloons
5 - Only tow it when the moon is overhead
6 - All of the above
7 - None of the above

I think I also read in some posts here that it's possible to pay professionals to install a heavier rated hitch on the motorhome. Is that correct? How much would that cost? How can I find out if it can be dinghy towed, two wheels down?

What would you do (other than going to a diesel)?

Thanks mucho, Steve
2022 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 8 324BDS
2022 FORD F-250 XL CREW CAB 4X4
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I live in an RV
32 REPLIES 32

timmac
Explorer
Explorer
I tow about 6500 lbs with my gas motorhome and its being doing just fine.


However my hitch has been upgraded and the frame on chassis in back has been reinforced and 4 electric brakes on the trailer..

It also helps not getting a big heavy motorhome, my motorhome loaded weights about 19,500 lbs so that leaves plenty of towing power left for the Ford 3 valve V-10..

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
DallasSteve,
I totally understand your situation. Sometimes, we have to make things work with what we have, and don't have obscene amounts of $$ to throw around. That be me, too. And, being one that wants nothing to do with diesel irregardless of $$, I totally get you wanting to stick with a gas Motorhome.

I think you can make this work with a trailer, if you must. As long as you are OK with the trailer only being used to tow your Subaru, then you can get one that is open in the middle, like this Carry-on trailer meant specifically for carrying a car, that weighs in just under 1500 lbs and can be had for under $3k. Especially if you can find a used one.

You still should look into re-inforcing the frame extension and hitch receiver of whatever gas Motorhome you get, to make sure it can handle the weight of your car on a trailer. Even if you can stay under the 5k limit, odd are there is also a 500 lb tongue weight limit you'll almost certainly be pushing. Thats why I'd suggest re-inforcing the Motorhome frame extension, and maybe the hitch receiver in the back. That can be done, too, though, and not too expensive. I did such recently to my Motorhome, and very glad I did. Here is a thread on here where I discussed such.

I totally understand how you feel about the advice you're getting, and that you don't want to trade your Subaru or get a diesel Motorhome. Diesel is obscenely expensive both to purchase and to own/maintain compared to gas, and trading vehicles is always very expensive. However, I think in the long run, you may well end up one day wishing you had followed the advice here. I've been camping/RVing for nearly 20 years, been on these forums for 16 years. I can think of several times over the years I've blown off advice from the experts here, only to realize years later that they were right after all.
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

soren
Explorer
Explorer
DallasSteve wrote:
The people who like to talk the most often know the least.


So, just to satisfy the adults on the forum, why are you even here? You ask legitimate questions, and don't like the answers. What is the point?

As for knowing the least, I guess you are talking about me. I've owned two pop-ups, five travel trailers, and two motorhomes, one gas, one diesel. In over two decades I have used them in 49 states, and most of the Canadian Provinces, while traveling at least 200k miles. I've lived full time in a motorhome, and done extensive repairs and renovations to several rigs. If that's your definition of "knowing the least" remember it comes from a person who made it quite clear that you are asking your questions since you don't have a clue as to what you want and need, and why.

BTW, NOBODY is here to WIN AN ARGUMENT, and folks continue to answer your posts. There is a reason that seasoned folks are trying to express the fact that trailering a car is, by far, the worst and last option for those that actually know what they are doing.

DallasSteve
Nomad
Nomad
rhagfo wrote:
DallasSteve wrote:
The people who like to talk the most often know the least.


Well once you find out the only possible advantage of towing a car trailer with a gas class A is that you might possibly be able to back it up, you might appreciate the good advice you were given!
Simple solution is get your gas Class A, and take the $$$ you would spend on the trailer and trade the Suburu for a flat tow compatible toad.

The fact that the wheels of the towed vehicle don't roll for thousands of miles while being towed is not an advantage? That's some good advice.

I'm not saying there aren't advantages to flat towing, but the statement "the only possible advantage" is an absolute statement and absolute statements are often wrong and often used carelessly by people trying to win an argument.
2022 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 8 324BDS
2022 FORD F-250 XL CREW CAB 4X4
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I live in an RV

rhagfo
Explorer
Explorer
DallasSteve wrote:
The people who like to talk the most often know the least.


Well once you find out the only possible advantage of towing a car trailer with a gas class A is that you might possibly be able to back it up, you might appreciate the good advice you were given!
Simple solution is get your gas Class A, and take the $$$ you would spend on the trailer and trade the Suburu for a flat tow compatible toad.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

DallasSteve
Nomad
Nomad
The people who like to talk the most often know the least.
2022 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 8 324BDS
2022 FORD F-250 XL CREW CAB 4X4
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I live in an RV

soren
Explorer
Explorer
DallasSteve wrote:
soren wrote:

Odd, to be seeking solid advice, then complaining that you don't like what you read, eh?

I didn't complain or say I didn't like anything. I was seeking "solid advice" on how to tow a Subaru Crosstrek, on a trailer with a 35-foot class A motorhome with a gas engine. Not how to flat-tow a car I don't own with a diesel motor I'm not going to buy. But people can keep telling me I should do something that I'm not going to do.


At the risk of pointing out the obvious, you missed a few key words in your reply. Your last sentence really should say, " but EXPERIENCED, KNOWLEDGEABLE people keep OFFERING ME QUALITY ADVICE and I'm not going to follow it.

Do whatever floats your boat. Understand that there is a price to pay for doing so however. For example, you seem to be totally unaware that there are solid engineering decisions behind having tow ratings on gas A rigs that include a 3500# to 5000# rating with a VERY light hitch weight. It's because they are built on a frame that is significantly shorter than the overall length of the "box" The frame is extended by the coach builder, and often is unable to rigidly support the back of the rig, over time and use. 34' and larger class A rigs are famous for subtle to outrageous sagging in the rear, over time. By limiting the hitch weight, and not allowing things like large cargo trailers and car haulers to be pulled by their products, the builder is insuring that it doesn't literally bent to the point of failure where the extensive joins the factory frame, or cause enough deflection to cause damage and a loss of function, IE, binding slides. TLDR version? Extended frame, gas products are built on light frames that are cobbled together to get the job done. They are given a "towing rating" that makes it clear that they are designed to PULL a load, not TOW it. As in four wheel down, compact car following behind, or on a tow dolly, NOT a car and car trailer.

Bottom line when asking for advice on the Subaru, car trailer, and 35' class A gasser? It's real simple, it's not a good idea,period. Which is why you are getting responsible replies like, think about a diesel, (with a massive frame typically built by Freightliner BTW) or find another car that flat tows well.

So, If you had a dollar for every time a knowledgeable person gave you good advice, good for you. If you ignore it, well bless your heart. Hope everything goes as well as you think it will.

DallasSteve
Nomad
Nomad
soren wrote:

Odd, to be seeking solid advice, then complaining that you don't like what you read, eh?

I didn't complain or say I didn't like anything. I was seeking "solid advice" on how to tow a Subaru Crosstrek, on a trailer with a 35-foot class A motorhome with a gas engine. Not how to flat-tow a car I don't own with a diesel motor I'm not going to buy. But people can keep telling me I should do something that I'm not going to do.
2022 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 8 324BDS
2022 FORD F-250 XL CREW CAB 4X4
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I live in an RV

soren
Explorer
Explorer
DallasSteve wrote:
I wish I had a dollar for every time some poster told me I should get a diesel motor or a car that I can flat-tow. I wish I had another dollar for every time I thought to myself if money was no object I probably would do that. If I had all those dollars money would probably not be an object for me.


Odd, to be seeking solid advice, then complaining that you don't like what you read, eh? You haven't bought a motorhome yet, so there is no reason that you are forced to buy a gas one. In any price range, the motor is your choice. You can buy an excellent, high quality diesel in a used Newmar, or similar product, for less that a POS new gasser from the mega-manufacturers will cost. Doesn't matter if you are spending $35K or $200k, deciding what powers your motorhome is your choice, and you are only limited by your ability and knowledge as you shop for one. You can also get rid of the Subaru and replace it with something that flat tows, fairly easily. IF you want to plague yourself with an overweight trailer on a gasser that can't really handle the job, that's your choice. There are lots of compelling reasons to avoid doing so, however.

j-d
Explorer
Explorer
I think there's a "mode of use" issue too.

Is there room to park/store a Trailer 1. At Home, and 2. At Camping Destinations?

Is this frequent or intermittent use like 1. Moving North/South or East/West a time or two a year, or 2. Every week/weekend, or 3. A "tour" with stops every day or so?

Will there be a lot of 1. tight maneuvering, or 2. back-in sites, or 3. pull-through sites?

Correct that Trailer puts tongue weight onto the RV while Flat is about Zero and Dolly is Near Zero. Trailer can also shock load the rear of the RV with a bucking action. Trailer's the easiest on the car.

Hard to pick, if the players were Me and the DW. There's the technical/mechanical aspect, then the mode of use aspect, the personal preference aspect, and of course the financial aspect.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Mich_F
Explorer
Explorer
Towing a car on a trailer can also add considerable tongue weight into the mix. When weight is a concern, that doesn't help the situation.
As for diesel pushers tow ratings, Tiffin builds some with 4,500# tow ratings. Newmar has some with tow ratings as low as 5,000#. The cheapest Winnebago diesel pushers have differences in GVWrs and GCWRs, between 4,000# and 6,000#, yet they put 10,000# hitches on them.
2014 Itasca Spirit 31K Class C
2016 Mazda CX5 on Acme tow dolly- 4 trips ~ 5,800 mi
Now 2017 RWD F150 with a drive shaft disconnect

DallasSteve
Nomad
Nomad
I wish I had a dollar for every time some poster told me I should get a diesel motor or a car that I can flat-tow. I wish I had another dollar for every time I thought to myself if money was no object I probably would do that. If I had all those dollars money would probably not be an object for me.
2022 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 8 324BDS
2022 FORD F-250 XL CREW CAB 4X4
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I live in an RV

soren
Explorer
Explorer
rjstractor wrote:

Having said all that, in my opinion hauling a car on a trailer is the least desirable of all the possible options for towing a car. Driving is no problem, with a little experience backing is not that hard. I've maneuvered a 22 foot flatbed trailer with a 40 foot box truck and it was much easier than I would have thought. The main issue is that when you are parked and unloaded you have an extra 1500 pound vehicle 21 feet long and 8 feet wide that can't move on it's own. It's all up to you, but if I were in your shoes I'd ditch the Crosstrek and find something you can tow 4-down.


BEST advice on this thread, by far. Bottom line, as a class A owner with a lot of miles and years of RVing, there is now way, no how, that I would ever plague myself with a car trailer. If you can't tow your Subaru with four wheels down, find something that you can. A car trailer will be nothing but a giant PITA, and don't try to convince yourself otherwise.

j-d
Explorer
Explorer
carringb wrote:
All of the Ford cars and crossovers with a 6-cylinder engine are towable with AWD.

Understood, but my point was that I don't think an AWD can be towed with only one end on a Dolly either:
1. To make an otherwise not-towable AWD ehicle towable, or
2. To tow an otherwise towable AWD vehicle on a dolly because it wasn't set up with base plate, etc.
Unless maybe that AWD RAV4 somebody mentioned.
My understanding is
1. Either AWD all four DOWN (flat towable)
2. Or, AWD all four UP on a Trailer
3. Maybe to day, AWD can't be Half Up (dolly) AND Half Down (on the road).
Or have I missed the point?
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB