I am wondering how much tension (preload) I can put on the weight distribution hitch "springs". Mine use chains attached to the spring or trunion bar and tension is applied by pulling up on the chains.
How much can the hitch typically take?
I have along lever tool to set the chains in place and can put the tension on, but at what point do I risk breaking something (springs, hitch cradle etc)?
To get the truck to sit at normal height takes a lot of spring tension. I typically have the tongue jack raising everything when I do the WD bars, but still is a lot of force.
I understand the hitch, so don't need instruction on how it works, just not sure how much it can handle.
Also, when I go through road dips the tension greatly increases, so needs to be considered?
Mine is similar to the Curt
How much can the hitch typically take?
I have along lever tool to set the chains in place and can put the tension on, but at what point do I risk breaking something (springs, hitch cradle etc)?
To get the truck to sit at normal height takes a lot of spring tension. I typically have the tongue jack raising everything when I do the WD bars, but still is a lot of force.
I understand the hitch, so don't need instruction on how it works, just not sure how much it can handle.
Also, when I go through road dips the tension greatly increases, so needs to be considered?
Mine is similar to the Curt
Hi,
I will try to help but need more info about what your setup really is.
Seeing pictures of your setup, the WD hitch, truck and trailer in this case really helps and we will need some actual loads your trying to have the WD hitch work on. Will get to that in a moment. See some answers inserted after your questions
The WD hitch manufactures know and design the load ratings to handle compound angle turns and up and down dips up to the rating on the WD bars and hitch components. When you go around a turn and the truck tires are on an angle to the TT tires, one WD is holding all the load, the other bar can be totally unloaded. They know this and design the ratings to handle it. Same goes for coming off a high up RR crossing then the hitch will back flex upon itself.
This all comes back to selecting the right hitch parts for the actual known weight of the camper loaded TW and the truck bed loads you are trying to use it with.
If you do not know the ratings of the WD hitch, the truck loads or the loaded camper TW, then yes, you might break the WD hitch or the camper A frame if the loads are high enough. The camper A frame has to be able to handle those loads too. I have seen several A frames bent due to WD hitches. They have a limit too.
As a start, try and answer some of these questions and I may be able to add more.
1. How do you know when you have achieved proper WD for your truck?
2. What year, make and model truck is it?
3. What is the loaded TW of your camper?
4. How many pounds of cargo are in the truck bed aft of the rear axle when you are trying to adjust the WD hitch?
5. Are you pulling hard on the pipe or lever snapping up the WD brackets?
6. What is the rating of your WD bars and hitch head assembly?
7. What year/model camper?
If we know those items, then I can ask about some for dimensions of the camper and rear overhang on your truck and give an estimated load the WD bars will be providing.
Hope this helps
John
I will try to help but need more info about what your setup really is.
Seeing pictures of your setup, the WD hitch, truck and trailer in this case really helps and we will need some actual loads your trying to have the WD hitch work on. Will get to that in a moment. See some answers inserted after your questions
ajriding wrote:
I am wondering how much tension (preload) I can put on the weight distribution hitch "springs". Mine use chains attached to the spring or trunion bar and tension is applied by pulling up on the chains.
How much can the hitch typically take?
WD hitch spring bars have a rating for them as does the hitch head and the snap up chain brackets. By the mfr, they are rated to take the towing loads imposed by a loaded tongue weight plus any truck bed load weight up to the limit of the actual WD bar. Meaning if you have a 800# loaded TW and 400# of weight aft of the rear axle in the truck, the spring bars need to be rated at 1,200#. In this case, a 1,200# WD bar is rated to handle the conditions that are imposed on the hitch during normal towing.
I have along lever tool to set the chains in place and can put the tension on, but at what point do I risk breaking something (springs, hitch cradle etc)?
If you are trying to pull up on the pipe or lever to preload the spring bars by very much lift/pull, that is not good. That can be very dangerous and many trying it have gotten really hurt bad when the pipe slips off their hand or the snapup. Let us help you learn the method on how to do this by flipping the snap ups by hand. There is a method on how to do this that takes almost no effort to snap up extra heavy spring bars, like I have.
Once everything is hooked up, the risk of breaking something comes when you exceed the ratings of the WD bars. They are sized to the loads they are rated for. Yes there is some safety factor but the mfr would not normally warrant a new hitch used over it's rating as it will break if you go over by enough.
To get the truck to sit at normal height takes a lot of spring tension. I typically have the tongue jack raising everything when I do the WD bars, but still is a lot of force.
By your wording, "sit at normal height" their may be something not understood by us as to what you declare are proper WD settings for your truck. What is the criteria you are using to declare WD on the truck is correct?
I understand the hitch, so don't need instruction on how it works, just not sure how much it can handle.
Also, when I go through road dips the tension greatly increases, so needs to be considered?
Mine is similar to the Curt
The WD hitch manufactures know and design the load ratings to handle compound angle turns and up and down dips up to the rating on the WD bars and hitch components. When you go around a turn and the truck tires are on an angle to the TT tires, one WD is holding all the load, the other bar can be totally unloaded. They know this and design the ratings to handle it. Same goes for coming off a high up RR crossing then the hitch will back flex upon itself.
This all comes back to selecting the right hitch parts for the actual known weight of the camper loaded TW and the truck bed loads you are trying to use it with.
If you do not know the ratings of the WD hitch, the truck loads or the loaded camper TW, then yes, you might break the WD hitch or the camper A frame if the loads are high enough. The camper A frame has to be able to handle those loads too. I have seen several A frames bent due to WD hitches. They have a limit too.
As a start, try and answer some of these questions and I may be able to add more.
1. How do you know when you have achieved proper WD for your truck?
2. What year, make and model truck is it?
3. What is the loaded TW of your camper?
4. How many pounds of cargo are in the truck bed aft of the rear axle when you are trying to adjust the WD hitch?
5. Are you pulling hard on the pipe or lever snapping up the WD brackets?
6. What is the rating of your WD bars and hitch head assembly?
7. What year/model camper?
If we know those items, then I can ask about some for dimensions of the camper and rear overhang on your truck and give an estimated load the WD bars will be providing.
Hope this helps
John
ajriding wrote:
Here is it loaded using the next shorter chain link. Lots of tension on it, and has raised truck a little higher than without trailer.
Not sure if pic is viewable, but bars are loaded and bent.
The trailer frame is strong enough, and Class V hitch won't know its there. More concerned just about the receiver and WD components related.
Not worried about the ride, or the other details, just the safety of the system.
I could tow trailer without any WD help, but rather have weight of truckโฆ
Thanks for other related comments, but Im just looking at how much tension goes into this and thinking, wow, thats a lot of stored energyโฆ
If the back of the truck is higher with the trailer, than without the trailer, then you are putting too much force on the spring bars. It should be the same height as when unhitched, and most likely an inch or so lower.
Here is it loaded using the next shorter chain link. Lots of tension on it, and has raised truck a little higher than without trailer.
Not sure if pic is viewable, but bars are loaded and bent.
The trailer frame is strong enough, and Class V hitch won't know its there. More concerned just about the receiver and WD components related.
Not worried about the ride, or the other details, just the safety of the system.
I could tow trailer without any WD help, but rather have weight of truckโฆ
Thanks for other related comments, but Im just looking at how much tension goes into this and thinking, wow, thats a lot of stored energyโฆ
Not sure if pic is viewable, but bars are loaded and bent.
The trailer frame is strong enough, and Class V hitch won't know its there. More concerned just about the receiver and WD components related.
Not worried about the ride, or the other details, just the safety of the system.
I could tow trailer without any WD help, but rather have weight of truckโฆ
Thanks for other related comments, but Im just looking at how much tension goes into this and thinking, wow, thats a lot of stored energyโฆ
The proper way to do it is to weight your vehicle and trailer at the CAT scale and adjust the spring bars so that you return most of the weight, removed from the front wheels by the trailer, back to the front wheels. In my case, the front wheels without the trailer are 100Lbs heavier that they are with the trailer and WDH connected. I call that close enough.
Regarding tension. Yes, it takes a lot of force to engage the spring bars. In fact, most people don't try to engage the spring bars unless they raise the tongue of the trailer with the tongue jack.
You might look around on this site and RV.net I have seen some "sticky threads" that explain it in great detail.
Regarding tension. Yes, it takes a lot of force to engage the spring bars. In fact, most people don't try to engage the spring bars unless they raise the tongue of the trailer with the tongue jack.
You might look around on this site and RV.net I have seen some "sticky threads" that explain it in great detail.
ajriding wrote:
I am wondering how much tension (preload) I can put on the weight distribution hitch "springs". Mine use chains attached to the spring or trunion bar and tension is applied by pulling up on the chains.
How much can the hitch typically take?
I have along lever tool to set the chains in place and can put the tension on, but at what point do I risk breaking something (springs, hitch cradle etc)?
To get the truck to sit at normal height takes a lot of spring tension. I typically have the tongue jack raising everything when I do the WD bars, but still is a lot of force.
I understand the hitch, so don't need instruction on how it works, just not sure how much it can handle.
Also, when I go through road dips the tension greatly increases, so needs to be considered?
Mine is similar to the Curt
