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Jacking single axle trailer

JCR-1
Explorer
Explorer
Everywhere I read that the proper way to jack up a single axle trailer is by using the chassis frame rail. They (manufacturers) and industry never recommend the axle for a jack point even if you use the spring perch. I just wonder why the end of the axle is not the best or even suitable by their recommendations. I believe these axles are cambered and to lift even by the perch may stress the curvature to a negative or flatter arc and may reset the arc unfavorably. ??????
25 REPLIES 25

bobbick
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all. I got my bearings greased and installed my new rims and tires.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
JRscooby wrote:
bobbick wrote:
Is it ok to jack it up here on my single axle trailer?



IMHO, this is best place. If the top of jack has hole or depression center under the tie-bolt will reduce the chance to slip. If I was really afraid, I would use wood block.


That is where I jack with my dual axles..

However, in the case of my TT which uses "drop" axles, I have only about 3" from the edge of the rim to my preferred jacking point in your pix.

With a flat tire, there is no way to fit any jack under that spot.

So the options are in the case of a flat tire is to have a second jack available to use in front of or behind the spring mounts on the trailer frame in order to get a jack under the axle mount.

Or, as someone else mentioned something like a a couple of short 2x10s stacked to pull the flat tire up on to. Once you have enough height to slip a jack under the jacking point you can remove the flat tire and then remove the blocking and put the new tire on..

I carry some 2x10s a few blocks of wood, a shorty low profile hydraulic 10 ton jack and a taller 4 ton hydraulic jack for this occasion..

The shorty jack is 6" tall but only extends to about 10" so it does take some blocking and planning to get it high enough to change a tire..

Looks like this..



There are other jacks that can be used that really do not need a lot of clearance..

The venerable scissors jack can fold down to only about 4" tall for storage and will typically extend to about 15"..



As with any time you jack things up, finding as flat and as level of hard ground as possible are top priorities..

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
bobbick wrote:
Is it ok to jack it up here on my single axle trailer?



IMHO, this is best place. If the top of jack has hole or depression center under the tie-bolt will reduce the chance to slip. If I was really afraid, I would use wood block.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
I always jack at where suspension mounts to axle, or where the suspension mounts to the axle. I assume those points are designed to carry the weight.
Tire change; You carry something to build a ramp to level the camper for use right? And also while the jack is moving trailer up/down is when it most likely to slip, drop trailer, right? And most jacks, to operate you must be in, or close to where the trailer will fall if it does. And if the wheel and tire is mounted when it trailer drops, trailer, and more important, you are less likely to get hurt.
Given all that, IMHO, the best plan is to pull the flat up on leveling blocks to get center of axle as high as it sets when the tire is inflated. Break nuts loose, then jack it off the block. This means, 1)Don't need to jack as far, so less chance to slip. 2)and most important, when you move the ramp you have room to get the inflated tire in place, never need to "Up a little more" with no wheel in place.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
rbpru wrote:
Two pages of "this is how you do it". Now you understand the reason the manufactures say lift by the frame.

It may not be the easiest, it may require a lot of spacer blocks but it is simple and it works.

It is true that many folks figure out an easier way to do it but also, many folks are totally befuddled and need road side service.

Fortunately I have a dual axel and use a Tire Aid but even then I have needed to use a 2x10 under it to keep it from sinking into soft sand.


Literally 2 pages of everyone actually agreeing on something, which may be a first for this forum, lol.
You’re the only dissenter thus far.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
^Yes.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

bobbick
Explorer
Explorer
Is it ok to jack it up here on my single axle trailer?

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
2 pages of how to jack up a trailer, I'd hate to see the process that some use to make a cup of coffee.

bobbick
Explorer
Explorer
.

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
Two pages of "this is how you do it". Now you understand the reason the manufactures say lift by the frame.

It may not be the easiest, it may require a lot of spacer blocks but it is simple and it works.

It is true that many folks figure out an easier way to do it but also, many folks are totally befuddled and need road side service.

Fortunately I have a dual axel and use a Tire Aid but even then I have needed to use a 2x10 under it to keep it from sinking into soft sand.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

JCR-1
Explorer
Explorer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bux1kg7wxCg

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
JCR-1 wrote:
Everywhere I read that the proper way to jack up a single axle trailer is by using the chassis frame rail. They (manufacturers) and industry never recommend the axle for a jack point even if you use the spring perch. I just wonder why the end of the axle is not the best or even suitable by their recommendations. I believe these axles are cambered and to lift even by the perch may stress the curvature to a negative or flatter arc and may reset the arc unfavorably. ??????



Im not sure if this applies or not but it might be because the spring hangers could bend if they are too long?
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24796694.cfm

centerline
Explorer
Explorer
I DONT agree with the recommended practice of jacking from the frame.
I believe it to be outdated, and at the very least a much less safe procedure than jacking from under the spring seat.. or from under the spring pack itself, fore or aft of the axle, depending on the arch of the springs.

some of the older travel trailers had low fender skirts, and lifting from the axle would not allow the tire to be taken out after the lugnuts were removed, so jacking from the frame was the only option

jacking metal to metal under the axle tube could cause damage to the tube... not likely if the jack is kept close to the spring seat, but possible.... NEVER jack the trailer from near the middle of the axle

if the jack isnt placed carefully and securely under the axle tube, it can easily slip out, causing serious injury.

these dangers are the same jacking "metal to metal" under the frame....

jacking from under the frame and the unit will have to be lifted much higher, which is exponentially greater safety risk, for a number of reasons....

when jacking from under the spring seat, the amount of lift necessary to change the tire is minimized, an the stability of the trailer remains more stabile and secure, the closer it stays to the ground.....
2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
2014 Ram 3500 CC/LB, 6.7 Cummins
2004 Polaris Sportsman 700
2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
1979 Bayliner 2556 FB Convertible Cruiser
Heavy Equipment Repair & Specialty Welding...

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
gmw photos wrote:
Hey if you think my cradle for my jack under the axle is mountain out of molehill, you should see my "structural T's that go under the stab jacks". Made of oak. Stained. Varnished. No orange lego blocks for me.
chuckle, chuckle.

This is what happens when you are retired and standing around in the shop in the morning with a cup of coffee in hand....you stare at things and say, what if ???


I'm certainly a fan of of mountains in other hobbies I have, so I know the feeling 🙂
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed