What Do I Need To Add To Flat-Tow A Jeep?

[DallasSteve]

I'm planning to get a Jeep Wrangler and tow it behind a motorhome. I've read a little about doing this and I'm seeing a number of steps that can be involved to get the Jeep and RV set up correctly. Or my other alternative is I can buy a trailer and set it up to pull the Jeep on the trailer. I've read that a lot of parks don't have room to park the trailer so I'm leaning towards 4-down towing, but you can comment on that angle, too. Here are the tow components that I'm aware of:

1 - Tow bar (standard or adjustable)
2 - A base plate or an aftermarket bumper
3 - A connection for the Jeep lights
4 - A brake controller (do most people do this) (which type of system)
5 - Remote tire pressure monitoring system (do most people do this)

Are there other modifications that I am missing? Are there any modifications needed to the RV? I don't want to tackle all of this myself. I might mess it up and it's not what I enjoy doing. How much will I need to spend, parts and labor, if I pay a professional to do this? What would a decent trailer and modifications to strap down the Jeep cost if I went that route? Is flat-towing safer than trailering the Jeep or about the same?

Thanks, Steve

[Ski_Pro_3]

I would recommend to either have someone with experience on setting up a toad help you, or have a qualified shop do it and explain how they did it and how you are to utilize it.
I had two good buddies with almost the exact same setups that I was shooting for help me and we got it right and I KNOW what does what and why it's needed.

[MDKMDK]

DallasSteve wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

DallasSteve wrote:
I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.

That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.

I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.

That's what we did. If you buy a motorhome from an RV dealer, they're more than likely going to have some options for you for towing equipment. Ours favored Blue Ox equipment, and they will know how to set up your Wrangler, like they did for ours. Apparently, it's not hard to do, if you have some basic tools and a place to work, and can follow instructions, but we chose the easy (lazy) route and had our motorhome dealer do it all, and set it up. So far, so good.

As far as buying motorhomes that can or can't pull something, not everyone wants, or can afford, a diesel pusher. A 35' class A gasser with a Ford 6.8L V10 and 6 speed transmission will have plenty of power and braking to pull a Wrangler, as long as the Wrangler weighs less than 5,000lbs. And they do. :C

[Tom_Barb]

DallasSteve wrote:

Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.

Just a question,, Why would anyone that is planing on towing anything, buy a coach not capable of the job?

We knew we were going to tow, we thought we would be towing our 2002 Dodge 3/4 ton diesel. We wanted a 34-38 foot coach, we couldn't find one that had the capability with the safety cushion we wanted, so we bought the 40' Newmar and a year later we ended up towing the jeep. and some times the trailer loaded.
and yes with the trailer we have more options.

I have seen the results of several accidents involving motorhomes and towed vehicles. every one where the coach hit something solid the tow bar was destroyed, and there was damage to the coach, and the towed. Both accidents that involved cars on trailers, the cars stayed on the trailer and was unloaded and driven away.

not saying that is always the case.

[Tom_Barb]

DallasSteve wrote:
I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.

DRAW BAR

They come in all sizes and capacities.

I have 1 for 20,000 pounds ( I seldom use it)

Your average tow bar is only rated for 10k, I believe there is a couple rated for more than that, but they are expensive.

[Tom_Barb]

MDKMDK wrote:
X2. I haven't tried using a trailer for the same reasons, and the added weight to the overall package, and the issue with class A draw bars being usually limited to 5,000lbs.

When your towing limit is 5k, you probably shouldn't be towing much. (a Jeep is 4500 pounds)
If you are saying that the hitch weight limit is 5k, the trailer will not come near that. mine is 800 pounds.

[DallasSteve]

MDKMDK wrote:

DallasSteve wrote:
I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.

That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.

I've never seen the term "draw bar" before, but if the limit is 5,000 pounds that would eliminate the trailer option. I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and pay someone to get it set up for me to tow 4-down.

[MDKMDK]

skipro3 wrote:
Just the sheer fact there is a larger footprint when setting up camp when you include a trailer for your extra vehicle should be a serious consideration when decided if towing or hauling a car is better or not.

With the right setup, it's mere minutes to unhook the towed and park it. It's never mere minutes with a trailer. At least any time I've had to haul a car, it's a lot of work. Just backing up to a large trailer accurately enough to hitch up is a difficult chore in a large motorhome.

Configuring your towed set up will take some time and research, which you are progressing on. It took me a few days to figure out how to set up my safety cables, wiring, braking, etc, but now it's plug and play with a tow bar that is adjustable so I only need to get close to set it up. As I pull away, the tow bar locks into place and away we go.

I would recommend a rear view camera and monitor. A cheap set up costing under $100 and you'll be able to see if there's anything bad happening.

X2. I haven't tried using a trailer for the same reasons, and the added weight to the overall package, and the issue with class A draw bars being usually limited to 5,000lbs.

[Tom_Barb]

MDKMDK wrote:


X2. If it can be done easily 4 down, I wouldn't add the complexity of a trailer or dolly. It's just one more thing that can fail or break down. YMMV. 🙂

it certainly can be done easily either way, placing the jeep on a trailer isn't the big deal that's been made of it.

[Ski_Pro_3]

Just the sheer fact there is a larger footprint when setting up camp when you include a trailer for your extra vehicle should be a serious consideration when decided if towing or hauling a car is better or not.

With the right setup, it's mere minutes to unhook the towed and park it. It's never mere minutes with a trailer. At least any time I've had to haul a car, it's a lot of work. Just backing up to a large trailer accurately enough to hitch up is a difficult chore in a large motorhome.

Configuring your towed set up will take some time and research, which you are progressing on. It took me a few days to figure out how to set up my safety cables, wiring, braking, etc, but now it's plug and play with a tow bar that is adjustable so I only need to get close to set it up. As I pull away, the tow bar locks into place and away we go.

I would recommend a rear view camera and monitor. A cheap set up costing under $100 and you'll be able to see if there's anything bad happening.

[MDKMDK]

DallasSteve wrote:
I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.

That bit of info helps. If you're going to try pulling anything with a 35' gas class A motorhome, you may already have answered your question about how to do it. Most, if not all, class A gassers only have a 5,000lb draw bar at the rear end, as was mentioned by another poster on a different thread about towing. If your Wrangler plus the trailer weight exceeds that, you'll be over weight. The newer Jeeps are running around 3700 to 4200 lbs depending on whether it's a 2DR or 4Dr, and any optional equipment. I have no experience with trailer weights capable of safely carrying your Jeep.

Tom has more towing capacity with his diesel motorhome, probably a 10,000lb drawbar, so he can easily pull both a Jeep and trailer. On that basis, he has more options for towing.

[MDKMDK]

imgoin4it wrote:
I tow a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and stay with my brake buddy. As for towing 4down I would never consider any other way and do not understand why anyone else would either. Blue ox tow base plates are ivery easy to install (imagine others are as well), put a diode kit in for lights and configure the Jeep for towing and off you go. This is the third jeep I’ve towed and I think the easiest.

X2. If it can be done easily 4 down, I wouldn't add the complexity of a trailer or dolly. It's just one more thing that can fail or break down. YMMV. 🙂

[Tom_Barb]

DallasSteve wrote:
I plan to pull my Jeep with a Class A gas motorhome about 35 feet long. I don't have the exact model yet, but when I'm shopping adequate weight ratings will be a must. I think in a Class A that size I will have plenty of capacity to include a trailer, but I may be wrong. I will check its hitch rating too.

It certainly is an important factor. and why we went for a larger coach with a diesel.

[Tom_Barb]

MDKMDK wrote:
Just some more random thoughts. You can tow a new Wrangler 4 down, lock it up, and have the keys in your pocket. I know, because I do it.
Typical Jeep tires are probably much better quality and more reliable than any trailer tire, no matter how much you upgrade them. How many Jeeps do you see at the side of the road with a flat, compared to towables disabled by tire failures?
Have never had a problem turning with the Wrangler behind me. Always tracks well. Just use your mirrors and rearview camera.
I can have my Wrangler hooked up and ready to roll in about 10 minutes at a relaxed pace with nobody to help me, except to do a light check.

Trailers add weight to your GVWR (tongue weight) and GCWR (weight of the trailer itself) which reduces the overall capacity of your setup. They also need to be licensed and inspected in most jurisdictions. And probably insured separately from the Jeep and the tow vehicle.

You haven't said what you plan on using to pull your Wrangler. That might help us evaluate your options.
In the end, it's whatever you can afford, can pull with your tow vehicle, and feel comfortable with when driving it.

My random thoughts

We all know that trailers no matter what type come with the cheapest tire the manufacturer can get away with. So are you saying the jeep tire is any better than a light truck tire of a load range D?

You can tow your jeep locked up because you are not required to have the key in the ignition, we would need two sets of keys to do that. We could just lock our keys in the jeep I guess, 🙂

When you are running so close to your max gross load that a trailer will put you over. your probably too heavy to start.
Turning radius of the wrangler can be exceeded easily with the longer coaches, short ones not so much.

We've tow our jeep well over 75k miles, and like I've said we do it both ways, and I've yet to have the jeep break down while up on the trailer.

many of the boondocks camps we go to are pull in back out, or back in pull out. on the trailer, no problem, 4 down, ? Oh Well it's unhook time.

[imgoin4it]

I tow a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and stay with my brake buddy. As for towing 4down I would never consider any other way and do not understand why anyone else would either. Blue ox tow base plates are ivery easy to install (imagine others are as well), put a diode kit in for lights and configure the Jeep for towing and off you go. This is the third jeep I’ve towed and I think the easiest.