Jan-17-2018 10:42 AM
Jan-19-2018 07:35 AM
dougrainer wrote:
The ONLY things you have NOT changed is the Wall tstat and the Main upper control board. Odds are if you remove the cover on the upper control board you will find the problem. Genset or line voltage is NOT your problem. Doug
Jan-18-2018 02:37 PM
Jan-18-2018 10:07 AM
Jan-18-2018 08:14 AM
j-d wrote:
Is this a 30- or 50-Amp Coach? Is there some kind of "load shedding" device?
I ask because this A/C is acting like my neighbor's house unit did, when one leg of the 240-VAC AC power supply went out.
So, with that in mind, what is the Voltage at the A/C when it's trying to start?
And, as you check circuits, you'll verify the Hot Side/Black wire connections at Shore Tie, Breaker Panel, etc. Pay equal attention to the Neutral Side/White wire connections!
Finally, any "punch down" junction box is suspect.
Jan-18-2018 08:07 AM
Jan-18-2018 07:43 AM
wa8yxm wrote:
Well he did say it HUMS. so I'm assuming power
If it spins easily, And it has power there are really only three suspects
1: The starting cap (you replaced it but did you get the right one and was it good)
2: The wiring (did you hook it up properly)
3: THe motor.. Start winding burned out.
In the last case spinningh it with power applied (CAUTION DANGER) will start it.. however note words CAUTION DANGER. do not turn fingers into salami and slice,.
Jan-18-2018 07:32 AM
Jan-17-2018 02:13 PM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
How about power AFTER the switch? Am I missing something? How many volts are getting to the motor THEN returning to neutral? Do these motors use a starting contactor?
Jan-17-2018 12:02 PM
Jan-17-2018 11:07 AM
wa8yxm wrote:
Make sure you can turn the fan power OFF by hand
Jan-17-2018 11:05 AM
Jan-17-2018 11:02 AM