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Hello - new 85 20ft MW, from an auction, now what

Stewfish
Explorer
Explorer
question - See 2/26/2018 update on page 2

Is there a Minnie Winnie forum? Or one for RVs with a Chevy 30? Do you know of any YouTube video channels for them, any info would be great. I assume a Chevy van for that year will be the same parts. Thanks in advance! UPDATE - I added everyone's ideas to this main post so I can print it out later.

We just got a 1985 20ft Minnie Winnie with 4000 miles from an auction. Let me know what you think I should check out. Details and my plan so far are below.

Options if you were wondering:
Generator, AC, rear door and bed, moving forward on the driver's side is sink cook top fridge (small shower/toilet combo) on passenger side pantry/closet, dinner table booth. UPDATE - Tires are from the 26th week of 2010, so I'm looking to replace those. The belts look brand new, I'm going to look at the numbers from all the pics I took of them tonight.

About the RV:
My friend is a dealer and got it for me at an auction. He doesn't feel like the 4000 miles is made up (rolled back). He is towing it to my house so that I can change the oil first. The owner drove it to the auction from Ruskin FL to Orlando. So I assume the gas was drained and new. I don't know what has been done to it. My friend says it starts and runs good. (update it runs great, crazy hu!)

My background:
I have experience with boats and understand the basics with batteries (series or parallel), pumps, plumbing, sinks, sewage and water tanks, portable generators only, window and home AC units, trucks and cars and used to be a contractor.

My friend is going to call the owner and see what maintenance they have done.

My plan of attack if not already done and or to verify done:

Engine/General driving etc:
Oil/filter change
Fuel filter location unknown (assuming in the engine bay if its an old Chevy.)
Check/change air filter (mold, dirt, brand new?)
Drain and replace fuel look for water in the fuel
New belts
Water pump?
Coolant change
Check coolant hoses for cracks
Check brake pads and any lines for cracks
After changing lines bleed and change brake fluid look for water
Check for fluid leaks
Squeaks / bad shocks or bushings w cracks
change rubber vacuum and fuel lines
Motor mounts
Check light bulbs
Battery shut off and electric outlet tester
wiper motor check, wipers (size and code?________________)
ceiling fan
inside lights
awning material
Does it have jack stands for when camping/parking? Are they working?

Plumbing:
Is there mold in the water tank?
Flush the system w bleach dilution method
add "sweet water" drops that I already have to the new water
Flush/wash sewage tank with homemade multidirectional wand.
Read somewhere to use Ice with cleaner to "scrub" it while you drive?
Read somewhere to use liquid fabric conditioner instead of the blue stuff, but I will see about biodegradable options
I have a lot of PEX pipe so maybe redo plumbing if it's the old grey tubing.
Check valves are working freely and plastic won't snap down the road
Check fuacets for leaks, water pump working?
Pump specs: amp______ psi______ gph_______ see if I have a back up pump
Are there shut off valves at the pump to switch out without leaking
Does it have a macerator pump or just a tank using gravity?
Does it have drainage hose

Generator:
drain fuel, change oil/filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, test it.
rebuild carb
Check if there is a 24v system w batteries like a large boat?
Is the generator diesel, hope it can run off the main tank which is not diesel.
Is there a volt meter to watch batteries.
Is there a house battery bank? How old? keep charge?

Roof:
Check for leaks and maintenance to see if it just sat and has any leaks, mold, cracks, lifting sealant, etc.
My friend didn't see any issues.

Cooktop:
Check lines for cracking /leaks
See if there is a tank
Is it propane and marine type alcohol stove, or just propane
New propane sensor? or does it have one?
New carbon monoxide sensor along with original if it's wired in

Fridge:
Is it propane and electric, or just electric?

Hot water heater:
See if it's rusted out with red water
Do RVs have instant hot water propane heaters now? A friend suggested getting a camping propane tankless water heater. But with those a 9v battery ignites the propane and the heater works when there is water flow sensed. I fear a spark inside a chamber with propane (even with a vented hatch) is a bad idea. Maybe I can add a loop somewhere outside that I can divert the water through the tankless heater, or make sure everyone knows to open the hatch before using it.

Tires look good, he said no dry rot -I'll look at the year
Friend put in a new battery

Future upgrades:
Jump starter for backup, and airing up tires
Rack on the roof, how much weight can go up there. what are height limits (how low do I have to keep things? for kayaks and paddle boards
Mount vinyl fence posts underneath, to hold the sewage drain lines/ etc
hanging closet shoe holder rack near entrance
Radio working? speakers ok?
Solar if we start to do off grid
Do we need reupholstering?

What else should I add to my list

Sorry for grammar this was posted from my phone originally
18 REPLIES 18

Stewfish
Explorer
Explorer
j-d wrote:
It isn't recommended to be wandering around inside a moving Motor Home, but it's forbidden to be inside a moving trailer. As a result, MoHo door locks are different and of course therefore more expensive, than those for Trailers. Look at the Amazon page you linked, and you'll see where the MoHo locks don't have just a latch and a plain striker plate. They have extra pieces that engage a more elaborate plate. That's because for a MoHo they have to meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards/FMVSS to resist uncommanded opening.

So please shop accordingly, people have fallen out of moving RV's through that door.


wow crazy. I see what you mean now. What is the consensus on my older style Tri-Mark lock? I guess all I need is a new handle part where the metal that inserts into the latch mechanism arm broke. The outer plate, and latch mechanism arm that triggers the lower "open latch" are okay, just the handle broke. Is there a old chevy truck handle that would work or something?

j-d
Explorer
Explorer
It isn't recommended to be wandering around inside a moving Motor Home, but it's forbidden to be inside a moving trailer. As a result, MoHo door locks are different and of course therefore more expensive, than those for Trailers. Look at the Amazon page you linked, and you'll see where the MoHo locks don't have just a latch and a plain striker plate. They have extra pieces that engage a more elaborate plate. That's because for a MoHo they have to meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards/FMVSS to resist uncommanded opening.

So please shop accordingly, people have fallen out of moving RV's through that door.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Stewfish
Explorer
Explorer
All is coming along well. I have replaced a ton of stuff in the engine, even down to the vac lines, it has always ran well, but I just wanted to be safe. I rebuilt the generator and it's running well. The AC works great. I have replaced most of the MDF fiber board in the cabinets/etc going as far as removing the cabinet frame and rebuilding the insides with sanded plywood, but keeping all the the oak pieces which are all in in great shape and made it easy to attach new plywood in there. I think the RV was stored under a roof, becuase everything looks dry and pretty surprising actually. The only issue I have seen so far is a leak from the vent for the cooktop fan/vent system. The vent is just a plate on the outside that has louvers angled down and would not prevent any water from coming in while driving. I just bought a new vent with a latching door to stay closed, but I am contemplating just sealing it off and sticking with outside cooking, like I always do while tent camping.

Now to my current newbie question - I am wondering if there is an upgrade door latch for the older style, or if I should stick with the old OEM. I'm not sure if I would be wasting $42 on a replacment inside handle and latch to later just replace it with something better, or if these were the best in the biz or something.

The latch Winebago Industries part 039979-01-000 stamped on the back
Amazon replacement - https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Mark-11022-05-Entrance-Latch-Assembly/dp/B00R3FXXIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519690036&sr=1-1&keywords=Tri-Mark+11022-05

I was also thinking about adding some filler in the latch area, I have scrap starboard left over from boat repairs. Then sandwich it all in nice 316 stainless sheeting. I got some sheets from the remants area at my local Alro metal to do the back splash and have enough. Then add something like a fastec for $25 since they seem to be working well on a ton of RVs


pardon my Grammar, I don't have a lot of time

Stewfish
Explorer
Explorer
IRV2 won't let me sign up if anyone knows someone, maybe they can help me contact them. I wanted to ask a question the other day on a thread there. I guess my "IP is a known spammer" which is not the case but I have heard they have issues sometimes with that type of error. I can't contact them either d/t this ๐Ÿ˜ž

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
Get to know the 12 volt DC system that powers the electronic controls for the appliances, alarms,fresh water pump and interior lights. The converter/charger charges the house battery(s) when the rig is connected to "shore" power. There is a switch that disconnects the house battery so that it can stay charged without parasitic loads like appliance controls and alarms while the rig is not being driven. Your converter charger may need upgrading to a modern one that will not overcharge house batteries. House batteries may need replacement if they are old and/or have been left discharged or if electrolyte levels have not been maintained with distilled water. Check house battery voltage with a voltmeter set for 2O volts DC. With rig connected to shore power or with generator running 13.6 volts, with engine running 14 volts, disconnected from shore power, engine not running, approx 12.6 volts. Expect problems with poor 12 volt connections (corroded, loose) in the 12 volt DC system on an old rig. Your engine starting battery is not kept charged when rig is connected to shore power unless a BIRD device or other device has been installed.

Check brake system for sticking calipers and engine cooling system for water pump, radiator, belts, hoses, and "clutch fan". Tires older than 5 years old may be unsafe, check DOT date codes on each and check for sidewall cracks that can lead to tire failure on the road with possible loss of control. Replace old flexible brake lines that can fail internally and cause loss of steering control,and replace brake fluid. Oh, Check dash AC and dash heater operation, and entire house plumbing system including the toilet, faucets, and holding tank dump valves and sewage hose fittings.
There's lots more to know and deal with on an old rig , good luck with your new hobby. It's a roadable motor yacht.

Last PS: Get the maintenance manual for the van that your rig is based on. RV Owner's manuals if you have one, are usually generic and don't include detailed electrical schematics and details as needed for troubleshooting. You may find good "how to" info on You Tube.

tatest
Explorer II
Explorer II
400 miles? That is not enough to get it delivered from the factory in Iowa to hardly anywhere else in the U.S. I am suspecting at least 100,400 miles.

Best sources of information, considering the mixed conflicting answers you get in this forum, would be a generic RV book, like "The RVer's Bible" which is now available as an e-book, and the "RV Repair and Maintenance Manual" from Abe Books. Equipment in RV's is generic, but what they were installing 30 years ago would have been significantly different in detail from equipment used today, or even 15-20 years ago, because of shift from manual and mechanical controls to electronic controls, particularly on LPG appliances.

Winnebago has manuals online, but not necessarily that far back. Go to winnebagoind.com, at the top of the page is an clicky for "Resources" that will take you to older manuals and brochures. I don't find even a sales brochure for the MinnieWinnie in 1985, just images of a generic Winnebago brochure. There is a brochure for the Sundancer, the model line in the Itasca brand that was equivalent to MinnieWinnie in the Winnebago brand. There are images for the 1986 MinnieWinnie brochure, but some of the product information may not be correct, as running changes were common although the model offerings did not always change from year to year.

For chassis information, you would be looking for G-series owner and repair manuals from General Motors. The G-series chassis is a different animal from the van, which was unibody. The G chassis was sold both bare and with the cab from the van. A manual for the van might fairly well cover engine offerings and cab equipment, but not chassis components and the heavier duty running gear.

Documentation for most RVs is a package of user manuals and sometimes installation manuals for most of the house equipment installed. For recent years a lot of these were published in electronic form (PDFs typically) and can often be found online, but 1985 is early in the era of electronic publishing.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B

Matt_Colie
Explorer
Explorer
Stewfish,

USE GREAT CAUTION!!

It occurred to me last night, long after I had shut down, that Winnebago manufacturing is all in Forest City Iowa. The finished coaches are all driven to dealerships. From there to Tallahassee I recall as 1300 miles.

So, if you new coach really says 400+ on the Odo, it has probably rolled over 100K. That is not all bad. On an coach of that era, that should not be worn out. If it is actually 4000, then it was just little used.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

1995brave
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here is the link to the Winnebago website. In the lower Right of the webpage is the Manuals and Diagrams section. Select the year and then the model and it will pull up what you need.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
With >99% certainty:

The cooktop (and conventional oven, if it has one) is propane only. Super simple technology, probably no pilot light or sparker for the burners (i.e. match light).

The fridge is two way, propane and 120V electric, and probably needs 12V power from the house battery for the control circuits.

The water heater is likely propane only, not tankless. In general people with RVs with tankless water heaters are not always the happiest with that setup, which might partly be due to the specific water heaters that get installed. The water heater may be DSI (i.e. electric) ignition, in which case it also needs 12V power, or it may have a pilot light and manual thermostat. It's possible it might also have a 120V element in it, but I would suspect it does not.

The furnace is propane, with 12V fans etc. powered by the house battery.

You do have two 12V electric systems. One is for the chassis only, and one is for the house stuff. There's some sort of a combiner circuit to allow the house battery to charge from the engine alternator; there are a few different designs to do this, but one common way is to have a solenoid (relay) that closes with the accessory/run circuit from the ignition. Often there's also a button on the dash to manually connect the batteries together at other times, mainly as a sort of built-in jump starter should the chassis battery be dead. There is also a converter that charges the house 12V battery when connected to 120V power. Between these systems, I wouldn't put a jump starter pack super high up on the list of priorities, though they can be handy things to have.

The generator is almost certainly gas powered, and if not it would be propane powered. I don't think anyone would put a diesel generator on a gas motorhome, especially as diesel generators are more expensive. If gas, the generator pickup in the fuel tank is usually built such that it will not get fuel if the tank is less than about a quarter full (i.e. it doesn't extend all the way down the tank) so that you can't strand yourself by running the generator too long.

Depending on the generator model, it may not have an oil filter.

Matt_Colie
Explorer
Explorer
Stewfish,

Yes, there are a couple of MW sites on the web, but be very ready. This is not a coach that usually ends up old. Water leaks can do them in real easily. Inspect the roof right now.

It is good to see that you were told to check the tire dates.
It is also good that you plan to replace the coolant and fuel hoses. When buying fuel hose make sure you buy hose that is ethanol compatible or you will be re-doing that job in about 5~7 years.

There is another problem waiting...
The brake fluid will absorb water from the air and should be replaced, but as the rubber brake lines have probably also aged out, you should plan replace them, then when you refill and bleed the brakes, the old brake fluid will no longer be an issue.

Actually, you need to suspect every piece of rubber and somethings you don't think of a rubber as being ready to fail.

I can hear you asking..
How much is all this going to cost?
Buy the book for the chassis and any tools you don't have. It will not have built in jacks, so get a jack and jack stands (4). You will need both. There is nothing outlined that a cleaver guy that is literate and can follow instructions can't do himself. Not only will this save you the 100+$/hr at any place you take it, but if it isn't done right, you can redo it really cheaply and you will know your coach so well that your confidence will be solid.
To actually answer the question, if you do it, including buying all the tools and books, I usually see friends do this for less than 3K$. But almost 1K of that is tools and supplies that you get to keep.

Now, Can this Be Managed?? I sure hope so. Our coach is a dozen years older and has been largely reliable for the whole time we have owned it. The big thing you have to remember is that even with the low mileage, that is still an old vehicle technology wise, and it will need the maintenance that was expected in 1985. If you keep up with that, you can have many happy miles.

A piece of advice from an old guy that has helped more than a few younger people revive old RVs...
Do not change, replace or remodel anything until you have actually used the coach. Do plan on camping several nights in the driveway before you start any trip. You have a lot to learn. Some of us can help.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

femailyetti
Explorer
Explorer
There are a couple of rebuild threads going on right now in the A and C forum. Some of them may have a idea on how to fix stuff on your project. Most people here will answer you questions in a honest way.

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
โ€œa 1985 20ft Minnie Winnie with 400 milesโ€

Thirty-three years old. Thatโ€™s traveling 12 miles per month. Donโ€™t believe it.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Stewfish
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks guys I really appreciate it

toedtoes
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check all fuel lines, including propane, for leaks. Old lines and get microscopic holes in them.

Replace all rubber (not just belts).

Check wiper motor.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)