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mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Joined: 01/03/2007

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Posted: 01/09/18 11:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added a 1/2 x 2 inch long brass nipple and a 1/2 inch brass ball valve to an Atwood WH once. I needed to removed the valve's lever handle so I could screw the valve into place. I kept the handle in the silverware drawer where I would find it when I needed to drain the WH. I never had a problem draining the tank. I also kept a 1/2 pipe thd x 3/4 hose barb with hose attached to screw into the valve hand tight when draining to keep WH door and my feet from getting soaked when draining the tank.

BurbMan

Back on Long Island!

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Joined: 09/20/2001

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Posted: 01/10/18 09:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old Biscuit, by all means use my idea! I'll snap a pic of the actual piece in a day or two when the snow drift out by the TT melts down a little....

I agree on overtightening and that's part of the problem with using a socket. The hex on that plastic piece is like 15/16" if I recall, and with that size socket it's sooo easy to overtorque that plastic plug.

Drill the holes on the sides like 1/8" deep or thereabouts...not too deep where you compromise the plug, but deep enough where the wire isn't falling out.


2001 Suburban 2500LT 8.1L/4.10
2008 Terry TT
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Dill TPMS, CorrecTrack alignment, LT tires


ependydad

Here and there

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Joined: 10/17/2011

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Posted: 01/10/18 10:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was reading on another forum that if you take a couple wraps of a paper towel, you can "wedge" The end of the plug into a socket. Then you can make sure everything is nice and straight and get it cleanly started by holding onto the socket vs. the small end of the plug itself.


2013 Sabre 36QBOK
2012 Ram 3500 Crew Cab DRW w/ 4.10 gears and 8' bed
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