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RV Garage Construction - Any Tips?

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
I'm in the planning stages for an RV garage. I have a relatively short Class C, but would prefer to future-proof this structure (hence asking in the Class A area).

Anyone done this? Have any recommendations for resources or input on any of the following? Is there a better area on this forum to discuss this?

-Door size? (hoping to do 12'W x 14'H)
-Length? (thinking 45-50')
-Width? (I have more restrictions here due to setbacks, may be limited to approximately 15' - not ideal, but still excited to have indoor storage onsite)
-Slab construction? (6" reinforced w/rebar?)
-Insulation considerations to keep garage above freezing?
-Heater type?
-Dump station? (don't know if this is possible re: code)
-Ceiling height/style?
-Drain? (floor or trench? is this a must have?)
-RV outlet - how best to implement? I would want to put a 50A plug, but I only need 30A. Is there a way to have both plugs but only one functional at a given time, so it's only one 50A circuit versus two separate circuits? Or maybe I should do two separate so I have a guest outlet in the event of a moochdocking friend? Any resources for the electrician? I've heard of people ending up with their plug wired for 220V like a dryer instead of 110V the RV needs - want to ensure the electrician is 100% clear.

I'm currently planning on frame construction attached to the existing two-car garage. Have two current stretch goals, if you will, that may or may not be implemented based on cost/budget considerations. These include:

-Rooftop deck on back half of garage
-Laundry hookups (this is also future-proofing...the house is a ranch with laundry in the basement; if I could at least plumb it into garage I would have total single floor living if my knees ever give out on me - this may also offer options for a clean out that doubles as a dump station?)

Any insight appreciated!
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs
25 REPLIES 25

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
alliemac9 wrote:
Any Tips?


Engage a pro, preferably a design pro (one that knows what they are doing as there are plenty that don't) and don't get construction advice on an online forum.

As an example regarding slabs on grade, there is already bad advice in this thread. The recommended panel size for control cuts in a 6" slab on grade is no more than 12', while maintaining a correct aspect ratio, not 16'. And what works in one area of the country, may not work so well in another, due to different soil conditions among other factors.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

catldog
Explorer
Explorer
We converted our 36'x 48' barn to an RV garage, have to back in and be very careful with the mirrors,door opening is 12'w x 14' t. would have made it bigger if possible,have a 50 x 30 amp park style pedestal, hose bibb water faucets on both sides, no sewage connections.when pouring the slab, I put a 24" w x 12" beam under the tire tracks to hold the weight, was told by a concrete contractor that was overkill, 5 years later no cracks.Make it as big as possible
and affordable.Look on Pinterest lots of ideas. Never say never! jg
2001 Winnebago Journey DL 36 DP

ncrowley
Explorer
Explorer
I forgot to add to make it wide enough to take the slides out.
Nancy
Newmar Northern Star

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
I built my MH bay 47.5' long when I had a 42' MH 12 years ago. Fast forward to today and my 08 HR Nav 45 fits BUT I cannot get around either end any more. Have to go outside and come in the side door to get to the driver's side. I was concerned about the height as one side of the door is only 12' 6" and the MH is 12'8"...fortunately the door opening gets higher at a 1/3 ratio so that was not a problem. Happiness is have it inside my home close to everything.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...

ncrowley
Explorer
Explorer
I would go with a 14 x 14 door. I have only 2 inches on each side to spare with a 12 foot door because of the mirrors. I would make it 50 feet long. The longest are 45 feet and you need a little space to get around it. I would have power available. I have a 50 amp circuit. I would have liked to have had a drain in there but it is not necessary. Make it high enough so you can work on the roof. 18 feet high would be as low as I would go. I also put in a RV septic drain although I have never used it.
Nancy
Newmar Northern Star

Mile_High
Explorer
Explorer
alliemac9 wrote:
OP here. Wow - thanks for all the input so far! I hope to be able to respond more specifically and ask some clarifying questions, but am buried with some stuff at the moment and then will be traveling briefly.

It will (hopefully) be attached to house, matching materials, frame built, siding exterior, etc. So, closed in with typical (but oversized) garage door. Am thinking of a double man door on back to allow riding mower out, and ventilation, etc. And half the reason for the laundry rough-in is to justify a cleanout to use as a dump station. There currently is no exterior cleanout to access.

The current place I store it has a 10'W x 14'H door, so I know all about the narrowness issue and I will likely feel spoiled with a 12'W door. Actually, where I store it now is pretty insane in all dimensions. I have to creep in, putting it in park regularly to pull mirrors in and out as I pass through the door opening. And then stop within a quarter inch of the overhead bunk hitting an upper wall while being perfectly perpendicular to said wall, or the door won't close. ๐Ÿ˜„

If anyone in CO has recommendations on contractors, etc. I'm all ears - still working on that part.
Good luck finding a contractor - With a building boom like we are having, only the C-squad is out looking for work.
2013 Winnebago Itasca Meridian 42E
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
OP here. Wow - thanks for all the input so far! I hope to be able to respond more specifically and ask some clarifying questions, but am buried with some stuff at the moment and then will be traveling briefly.

It will (hopefully) be attached to house, matching materials, frame built, siding exterior, etc. So, closed in with typical (but oversized) garage door. Am thinking of a double man door on back to allow riding mower out, and ventilation, etc. And half the reason for the laundry rough-in is to justify a cleanout to use as a dump station. There currently is no exterior cleanout to access.

The current place I store it has a 10'W x 14'H door, so I know all about the narrowness issue and I will likely feel spoiled with a 12'W door. Actually, where I store it now is pretty insane in all dimensions. I have to creep in, putting it in park regularly to pull mirrors in and out as I pass through the door opening. And then stop within a quarter inch of the overhead bunk hitting an upper wall while being perfectly perpendicular to said wall, or the door won't close. ๐Ÿ˜„

If anyone in CO has recommendations on contractors, etc. I'm all ears - still working on that part.
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs

T18skyguy
Explorer
Explorer
There's so much good advice in this thread it's hard for me to add any, but 12 wide is too narrow, especially if you want to put your slides out. Mine is 14 foot wide, but I agree the bigger the better. Even at 14 foot the steps get some splash from the rain, only the lower step. I did a metal building, but made a mistake and painted it green; gets much too hot and am going to paint it a lighter color in the Spring. My rig is a 32 foot and the building is 40 foot. The extra 8 foot really helps keep the sun off it. Another advantage of size is you can put other stuff in it for dry storage on the sides. I have 2 nineteen foot clear fir 2x10's, so I lay them on the inside of the building. Works just right.
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.

Farmboy666
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with radiant floor heat, have in my house, only need oxygen barrier Pex if itโ€™s a closed system, A better choice is Pex-AL-pex which has an aluminum sleeve wrapped around the tubing to transfer heat more efficiently and solves the oxygen barrier issue. I heat the water with Vacuum tube panels.

Mile_High
Explorer
Explorer
Busskipper wrote:
Mile High wrote:
Definately be liberal on length. Our MH is 43.5' and from the Dealer I swung it in to our rented garage with way too much confidence that I had plenty of room. It barely fit. A new 45' would not have fit.

I was lucky this time, but if I go to a 45 Gran Tour someday, I'll be looking for a new garage.


Just a little shed extension will due.:S

JMHO,
Ya, I don't think the garage owner is interested in giving me a shed extension.
2013 Winnebago Itasca Meridian 42E
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
Mile High wrote:
Definately be liberal on length. Our MH is 43.5' and from the Dealer I swung it in to our rented garage with way too much confidence that I had plenty of room. It barely fit. A new 45' would not have fit.

I was lucky this time, but if I go to a 45 Gran Tour someday, I'll be looking for a new garage.


Just a little shed extension will due.:S

JMHO,
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

Mile_High
Explorer
Explorer
Definately be liberal on length. Our MH is 43.5' and from the Dealer I swung it in to our rented garage with way too much confidence that I had plenty of room. It barely fit. A new 45' would not have fit.

I was lucky this time, but if I go to a 45 Gran Tour someday, I'll be looking for a new garage.
2013 Winnebago Itasca Meridian 42E
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed

Fleet_Man
Explorer
Explorer
Donโ€™t overlook building extra security into your metal building. Insure your roll up doors have locking provisions at ground level on both sides. Install several matching colored stainless steel rivets in the overlapping panel edges at ground level and up to about four feet above the ground. My metal building was broken into twice. Roll up door was secured at ground level on one side and slide latch up about three feet up on the other side. The slide latch side was pried up as far as it would go to gain entry and carry things out, @$4,000 in tools, etc. The second time they had a nut driver and removed the sheet metal screws where the panels overlapped and bent the panel back to attempt entry. The alarm system I installed after the first theft apparently scared them off this time.
2007 Winnebago Journey 34H
Toad, '08 Ford Taurus X
Blue OX, Aventa
US Gear UBS

NEOK
Explorer
Explorer
My RV garage is 30'x35' with two overhead doors. One door is 10'x10' for my boat the other is 10'x14' for my truck camper. The ceiling is 16'. If I had it to do over I would definitely go with 12' wide doors.That 10' door gets pretty narrow when I back in the boat of truck camper. I insulated the walls with fiberglass batts and the ceiling is blown in insulation. It is well insulated and without any heat I have never seen the temperature below about 40 degrees inside (located in northeast Oklahoma). I wired in a 30 amp RV receptacle but used wire with a heavy enough gauge that it could be changed to a 50 amp receptacle if desired in the future. I did not install a sewer dump inside but I have a clean out about 3 feet from the driveway so it's easy to dump before putting the camper in the garage.
neok
2009 GMC 25000HD Short Bed 6.0 Gas Engine Crew Cab SLT 4x4
2008 Bigfoot 15C9.5FS
Torklift Talons, Fastguns, Stableload Quick Disconnects, Superhitch & SuperTruss