Broke a leaf spring. Shop says I should instal bigger ones?

[kevink619]

Hi all,

While returning from a desert trip, the front driver's side leaf spring on dual axle my 2014 Forest River Evo 2160 broke. Of course, this quickly destroyed a couple tires. I had it towed on a flatbed to an independent repair shop. The shop says I should consider upgrading to heavier duty springs for "only a little more money". Will installing heavier duty springs do any good if I keep the existing axles? Also, could heavier duty springs simply cause something else to break next time?

Any input is appreciated.

[We_ll_See]

Yes bigger springs. My dad broke one on his escort trailer years ago and he always regretted not upgrading the springs AND wheel and tire capacity.

[goducks10]

Looks like the OP had enough CCC. More than likely just a cheap Lippert spring breaking.

GVWR
UVW
CCC
Exterior Length
Exterior Height
Exterior Width
Fresh Water
Gray Water
Black Water
Awning Size
T2160

7504 lb.
504 lb.
4490 lb.
3014 lb.
24' 8"
10' 10"
96"
56 gal.
28 gal.
32 gal.
14'

[afidel]

muzzledan wrote:
Sounds like you have a weight problem. Take your rig to a public scale (found at many truck stops) and have it weighed. Make sure it’s loaded with all the gear you would have for a long trip. Compair this to the rating found on the manufacturer’s tag. It will be $15 well spent!!!

Um, it's sitting in a repair yard with a broken spring, how pray tell is he supposed to take it to a scale?!?

[muzzledan]

Sounds like you have a weight problem. Take your rig to a public scale (found at many truck stops) and have it weighed. Make sure it’s loaded with all the gear you would have for a long trip. Compair this to the rating found on the manufacturer’s tag. It will be $15 well spent!!!

[Lynnmor]

I like to use the U-bolts that have a flattened surface where they contact the axle tubes. The round bolts can indent the thin tubing. Here is a photo: U-bolts

[Ron3rd]

Good advice from Huntingdog above.

I've read you should never reuse u-bolts but I've seen it done.

One more thing; have the shop install bronze bushings in the springs so you can use "wet bolts", ie, bolts with zerk fitting so you can grease them. You'll probably find the stock plastic bushings are gone anyway. I installed the next size up U-Bolts (thicker) which required me to drill out the spring plates slightly.

I would also recommend a heavy duty equalizer and heavy duty (thicker) shackle links. Not much more money while your doing the work

Go to the Dexter Axle website and you can read all about this stuff.

[Ron3rd]

Let me guess: It broke near the eye of the leaf spring, right? That's where they always break.

I have experience with this as nothing will stop you in your tracks like a broken leaf spring. Most leaf springs used on the lower and mid level trailers are $29 China junk.

Do yourself a big favor and get a custom set of springs made. Replace all 4! They should run about $80-$100 each but if made correctly, they will last forever.

[Huntindog]

Done this a few times for the same reason.

1st: Don't sweat the ride. The difference will be unnoticeable.

2nd: I have always replace thenm with the next size up spring pack. Staying with "stock" sized springs. If an subsequent failure occurs, then a road replacement is easier.

3rd: I have ALWAYS needed new Ubolts, as the factory installs ones that are barely long enough for the stock springs. They are riduculously expensive.

4th: Carry one of your old springs with you from now on. This is the surest way to prevent it from ever happening again.

5th: These are the bare necessities at this point. Do what ever else you wallet can afford. Many good suggestions, on how to spend your money. Do what you can while you are at it.

[GordonThree]

If you do the work yourself you'll save 90% of the cost. None of it is rocket surgery and all the parts are dirt cheap. Fighting rusty fasteners and jacking things up and down is most of. Only the most basic tools are required. I guess you might want to outsource pressing in brass bushings if your new springs come with the cheap plastic ones.

[spike99]

kevink619.

Yes. Upgrade all leaf spring packs to their next size up. re: +1 up size. I would - without hesitation..

To validate +1 upgrade isn't too much, simply take trailer's GVWR, divide by 4 (assume 4 x wheel hubs) and round up to the nearest available size. If you load heavy and/or tow on bumpy roads, then round up +1 more - for extra safety buffer. This works for me.

When you have more dollars in future, then upgrade its other moving parts - like shackle plates, worn out bolts, etc. And if possible, upgrade to wet bolt system.

Hope this helps.

[badsix]

i'm thinking about a shock kit for both axels, what are your ideas. I would think it would lessen the force on the springs a lot. of Corse its not a cure for over loaded springs. i just think it would make them live a much happier life.
Jay D.

[WayneAt63044]

I had a spring failure on the OK turnpike. One broke in two on the rear axle and it caused the other one on that axle to break in two. As it turns out, one of them had been cracked a long time based on the rust in the broken crack. I replaced all 4 springs for my 3,500 lbs axles with OEM spec 1,750 lbs rated springs. When I got home I looked at the new ones and the there was little arch in the springs and nearly a reverse curve on them. A trip to the scale verified the trailer was not overloaded. I then changed the PR4b springs to PR4 (from 1,750 to 2,400 lbs for 4,800 lbs axles) and the arch was normal and raised the frame by 2". No sign of a rougher ride over the last 1-1/2 years. My conclusion is that the springs originally on the trailer and the first replacements did not meet their rated specs. Get the heavier one for safety's sake.

[3oaks]

time2roll wrote:

kevink619 wrote:
MarkTwain, midnightsadie, Ductape, lucy6194, SidecarFlip, 3oak, rbpru, GordonThree, and ScottG:

Thanks so much for the replies, everyone.

I'm a bit short on case these days. I have the money to afford the heavier springs, but not to also update the shackles, hangers, and other components. I intend to replace all four springs, of course. This being said, should I go ahead and go with slightly heavier duty springs? Or just the OEM rated ones? Some of you mentioned that the trailer will rider rougher with the heavier duty springs. Also, with heavier duty springs, do I run the risk of damaging the shackles and hangers?

Forget HD, OEM nomenclature, get the actual rating and go up 800 to 1500 per axle. I went from 1750 rated (1750 x 2 = 3500 pound axle) to 2250 keeping the same axles and it has never ridden better. Mine were sagging so bad it was causing alignment issues.

By heavy duty springs, "higher rated" springs is what we all are referring to. Thus they are heavier duty than the OEM springs.

Yes, by all means time2roll, replace your factory original springs with slightly heavier rated springs now. Even if you replace nothing else at this time. Although wet bolts would also be a valuable addition if you could afford to "spring" for them too. 😉

[time2roll]

kevink619 wrote:
MarkTwain, midnightsadie, Ductape, lucy6194, SidecarFlip, 3oak, rbpru, GordonThree, and ScottG:

Thanks so much for the replies, everyone.

I'm a bit short on case these days. I have the money to afford the heavier springs, but not to also update the shackles, hangers, and other components. I intend to replace all four springs, of course. This being said, should I go ahead and go with slightly heavier duty springs? Or just the OEM rated ones? Some of you mentioned that the trailer will rider rougher with the heavier duty springs. Also, with heavier duty springs, do I run the risk of damaging the shackles and hangers?

Forget HD, OEM nomenclature, get the actual rating and go up 800 to 1500 per axle. I went from 1750 rated (1750 x 2 = 3500 pound axle) to 2250 keeping the same axles and it has never ridden better. Mine were sagging so bad it was causing alignment issues.