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house battery install, basic

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
hey guys, I'm back! I've dug through forums and other resources, but cannot find a direct comparison to what id like done. I restored a '79 ford class C (E350 chassis). it was really poorly rigged and quite dangerous when I bought it, I had a mechanic go through it and bring me back up to code and safety standards. this included disconnecting the house battery from the alternator for some reason.. I'm no mechanic. the reason was everything was being run off the starter+house battery in parallel, there was zero options to turn one off, the other, or both. it was both batteries, all the time.

now, its ready to have power again. I purchased an 85ah flooded deep cycle a Duralast 27 series, its dual purpose but for me will work great. I only need 150w output at any given time. what id like to do is charge both batteries while driving/engine running, and be able to turn off the starter battery manually, or automatically though I've heard the automatic ACRs will kill your battery in about a month if left sitting. I've heard conflicting information about this, and. really need it cleared up. I only need 150w because it will be charging my goal zero yeti generator at 150w, and everything else runs form the yeti(for now).

is this a good option? is it as simple as it seems? connect starter battery to one side, house to other, and be done with it? if thats the case, its perfect. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

or should I do a manual switch, and if so, basic disconnect between battery A and B? or a 4 position?
62 REPLIES 62

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I found this thread helpful in understanding how my 1991 "alternator charging" works and how to improve the under-hood set-up. I have changed a few things on mine accordingly.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
for the final touch, I just want to make sure its correct. I put inline fuses in, and between the batteries I used a 250amp ANL. between the coach battery and inverter, I used a 150amp. I listened to the guys at the store, but I still want to make sure these are sufficient. also, don't buy from West Marine unless you have to. 20$ for ONE fuse.

85AH house battery 12v
750w 12v-120v inverter

thank you so much again!

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
here you guys go, thank you so so much! I need to test and see if it working properly tomorrow, if only one battery is drained, if the other charges etc. I do videos regularly, check the one I made today while doing the install.

video link for installing battery, youtube

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
Didn't your rig have a converter? Did you remove it? It is quite often located behind the 120 volt AC breaker area.
I would think about putting one in for charging and operating 12 volt system while genset is running.


it had a converter that was totally dead. I ordered the progressive dynamics 240v/120v 90 amp beast, but they sent the wrong one and I returned it. never ordered the new one(yup I know).

ran out of usable cash... taxes coming(self employed), gotta be careful with what I spend and do.

got the Yeti at almost 40% off, which is why I picked it up!

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
This plan of yours is a real Rube Goldberg contraption;
Use a vehicle alternator to charge a lead acid battery
that lead acid battery then powers an inverter
that inverter then powers a battery charger
that battery charger then charges a Lithium battery
that Lithium battery then powers an inverter to supply power to the coach.

Wow


lol...yeah. one wrong part, the battery charge is also the lithium itself. also the lithium takes solar charge. the order I bought things in screwed me in the short term, I had no $$$ to buy a nice inverter that I trust plugging my MacBook into. the yeti has awesome surge protection and warranties, so if my cheap inverter fries it, its covered. my MacBook and other electronics would not be, I think its smart.. with a little extra work.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Didn't your rig have a converter? Did you remove it? It is quite often located behind the 120 volt AC breaker area.
I would think about putting one in for charging and operating 12 volt system while genset is running.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
This plan of yours is a real Rube Goldberg contraption;
Use a vehicle alternator to charge a lead acid battery
that lead acid battery then powers an inverter
that inverter then powers a battery charger
that battery charger then charges a Lithium battery
that Lithium battery then powers an inverter to supply power to the coach.

Wow
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
I know you are planning a small 150 watt inverter. How are you operating the other 12 volt systems? Are you just relying on the battery or does the rig have a 120/12 volt converter?


all of my power is as follows
-1x 12v cigarette lighter socket 20amp on dashboard from starter battery
-now, 750w inverter with 2x 120v outlets and 2x 2.1amp output USB ports from second battery 40 usable amp hours
-yeti 1400 lithium, with 700w solar input. yeti generator has 20amp 12v out, 2x light. output(yeti lights), 4x 2.1amp usb out, and a 1500w/3000w inverter with 2x 120v out.
-yeti can be charged 135w/hour via ac chargers.

I didn't mention this.. I'm kinda being forced into moving into the camper sooner than I planned, its a long story and I have a choice, but id be imposing to stay any longer. I am using this setup to get through the winter, and can finish the full build in the spring when its warm. this will get me by for now.. thank goodness for compost toilet and planet fitness.

-order to hook up batteries/Inverter? id think it shouldn't matter too much, negatives first but I want be sure.

edit somehow missed your last sentence. thanks here goes!

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I know you are planning a small 150 watt inverter. How are you operating the other 12 volt systems? Are you just relying on the battery or does the rig have a 120/12 volt converter?
You should install the battery positive first then the negative.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
Yes!


thank you. if you can't tell, I'm a total rookie. however, this information will stick with me forever and it will benefit others in the future. thank you so, so much! I'm about to put the batteries back in, and connect the inverter. I believe I've done it all right. anyway, is there a specific order I should put the batteries in or does it not matter. again thank you!

EDIT: oh and the inverter, negative first? connect to battery first, or inverter? this is ALL knew to me haha.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Yes!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
In the last photo showing the Ford starter relay, the fuse link could be the short portion of wire between the ring terminal and the small square item connecting the larger wire. Fuse links are just pieces of fuse wire. It is normally very flexible.
Yes the charge line should be fused, normally around 30 amps.


the yellow crimp was what they were easing to connect the battery switch to the isolator before, and I beefed it up to a 4 gauge. there are no fuses in the old, now unused wire I just mentioned. so is it safe to drive to the store without the inline fuses, to get them?

Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
Mako Kupo wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you are adding an old school battery when the Yeti is a new school battery with an inverter.


emergencies and extra charging. the idea is to provide enough deep cycle battery juice to charge my yeti when the sun isn't shining...


The Yeti website says specifically to not attempt to charge from a 12vdc source! The Yeti is intended to be charged from solar or 110vac.

To charge from another battery would require an inverter between the battery and Yeti.


thats the plan!

I've spoken in depth with them on the phone about charging it, and the only reason they don't recommend 12v is because if you forget, it can kill your battery! thus, the isolator. I will be using 2x ac adaptors simultaneously, which can produce about 135W with the mppt installed, according to them. a few hours of charging is sufficient for me to do everything I need, and run my tv as well it he evenings ๐Ÿ™‚ thank you so much!

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Mako Kupo wrote:
beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you are adding an old school battery when the Yeti is a new school battery with an inverter.


emergencies and extra charging. the idea is to provide enough deep cycle battery juice to charge my yeti when the sun isn't shining...


The Yeti website says specifically to not attempt to charge from a 12vdc source! The Yeti is intended to be charged from solar or 110vac.

To charge from another battery would require an inverter between the battery and Yeti.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900