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Automatic or manual leveling kits

tina5652
Explorer
Explorer
We have a new 2017 Thor Compass 24TX. What is the best leveling system to install on it?
16 REPLIES 16

ron_dittmer
Explorer
Explorer
Cider wrote:
As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter
I agree.

We were invited by family to share a camp site in Glacier NP west side that was ridiculously sloped. 6" of Lynx levelers wasn't even close. There is no way I would have trusted auto-levelers for fear they would bend or fold or something else gone terribly wrong.

2 full sets and one partial set of Lynx levelers & top caps, and also those wheel chocks work well for us in the crazy places we sometimes find ourselves in. Our 3 blue zippered storage bags full plus the box for wheel chocks can't be weighing more than 15 pounds. And they don't take up all that much space either.

Cider
Explorer
Explorer
As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter
2017 Tiffin Allegro RED 33 AA
2020 JLUR
Roadmaster Baseplate
Sterling AT Tow Bar
Demco Air Force One Brake System

ron_dittmer
Explorer
Explorer
The frame on solid jack stands should be more stable than on a suspension with heavy duty stabilizer bars. But sensitive side-to-side movement is reduced with HD bars so much that stabilizer jacks won't be worth fussing with. Then adding the huge benefit with handling the rig when driving it, you can't go wrong with HD stabilizer bars.

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.


I don't see how that could possibly be true. Sitting on a suspension, the frame is going to float on the suspension. No matter how rigid your suspension is, as long as it has shocks and springs it's going to give - that is what suspension does.

Sitting on jacks, the frame isn't going anywhere.
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"

j-d
Explorer
Explorer
Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.
C's are different from A's in that they have less advantageous mounting points. This tends to cause:

1. Front Jacks too far toward the Rear
2. Rear Jacks too far Forward
3. Insufficient Side to Side Spacing of Front and Rear Jacks due to the Narrow Chassis
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

ron_dittmer
Explorer
Explorer
Reading through the replies, some of you mentioned that your rig is unstable when parked. If your rig moves badly when someone walks around inside or rolls over in bed, it must also be unstable when driving. You should benefit in multiple ways with heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars, something to think about.

Someone up higher mentioned having little bubble levels. I stuck on little bubble levels on our rig two near the driver for front/rear and left/right leveling to help maneuver the rig on an uneven parking pad. It is remarkable how often I can level our 24' rig by placing a front tire down into a dip or high up on a mound.

I also adhered Hoppy brand levels on each side of the rig by the rear axle, and one in the back dead center. They help a lot to determine how many Lynx blocks to stack. One mark on the level equates to one block. They help to ease the hassle of leveling.

This is a Hoppy brand level. Note the tick marks. One tick mark equals one inch.


One Lynx block is one inch tall. They are light weight and store compactly and cleanly. I also bought wheel chocks and top caps. Everything works well together.

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
Our 1990 Winnebago Warrior had HWH flip-down jacks installed by the original owner shortly after he bought the rig.

Ours have 4 independent levers for each jack. Never thought about the frame wracking - good point to consider!

We have never had any problems with our jacks deploying or retracting, and the system is nearly 30 years old.

Jacks are good for leveling, but what I find them more important for is stability. Without the jacks, every time someone rolls over in bed the entire RV rocks and floats on the suspension, shaking everyone else in their beds.

With jacks, the house becomes rock solid.

Steve
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"

Horizon170
Explorer
Explorer
Ours is slightly shorter than yours and we seldom need to use levelers. When we do I use 2x8's to drive up on. I have a N/S level by the drivers left door and an E/W level mounted on the dash. That way I can maneuver the vehicle to a level spot while sitting in the seat.
BTW, North is 12 O'clock/straight ahead/front of vehicle.
Self levelers are a waste of money on a short RV IMO.
Marvin
Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)

Hank85713
Explorer
Explorer
as noted by some the 'levelers' really are hit and miss IMO. I have some on the Aspect and they do not seem to level, they seem to raise one end and then thats it. I use them manually. Also carry 2x10 for the tires to sit on or to put down for the pads since most places are on dirt and they can sink in. My BIL (class A 35 ft) also used plywood pads for his set up under the jacks. Guy I know has a 24ft thor and he was told NOT to install jacks for whatever reason. If its stability you want after set up I told him to get some of the triangular trailer levelers to take rock and roll out. Cheaper and simple to use.

FunTwoDrv
Explorer
Explorer
All great advice. Our 28QB didn't have levelers. I asked the dealer to install them before we picked it up... his response "use it for a few months and then ask me". We did and, we haven't asked him again! We use commercial camp grounds and have discovered that most are level and those that aren't could easily be "fixed" using a yellow plastic ramp. (can't think of the brand!)

Good luck,
Gary

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with both j-d and ron, the HWH hydraulics straight down with the system that raises both jacks on the four sides. But they are heavy.

I agree with Desert Captain but question the problematic part. I think all three things are great features and very durable. Maintenance is a key part of keeping them working well.

I believe at least HWH warns about lifting the RV so high that one or more wheels are off the ground. On just a very few occasions did I have to readjust for being so off level that I had a wheel off the ground. I use a shovel, blocks or move to a different site to keep all wheels on the ground.

I'm almost 80 and being on the road is for me, the most fun you can have with your clothes on, but, when we replaced our 26 year old Bounder, levelers were #ONE on my must have list. Replacement of both knees, one hip and stenosis of the lumbar region of the back make those ramps hard to move and getting down to place those inside rear ramps was murder.

If we were to get a small C or a B, I would buy the Lynx Blocks and make a system that would allow me to position the blocks without getting down on my knees.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

Desert_Captain
Explorer II
Explorer II
As Ron noted above auto levelers add considerable weight that you may or may not have to spare. Secondly, they are expensive and about as problematic as slides and retracting steps.

In a 24' coach using the yellow leggo blocks works just fine, been doing it for 4.5 years and still on the original set of blocks. Cheap and easy works for me. Also, take a walk around your CG or RV Park and count how many folks with auto levelers have them sitting on blocks... :S

ron_dittmer
Explorer
Explorer
In our travels primarily to national parks and other public lands, the parking pad in the camp sites are generally so badly out of level that auto-levelers or blocks will never be enough. We most often settle for close-enough using Lynx leveler interlocking blocks which can raise a corner of the RV higher than hydraulic levelers are able on a class C.

I've seen large class As where the jacks have raised the front tires up off the ground, but I understand is a no-go on class Cs.....admittedly I don't know much about such things, only what I have gathered on forums. Maybe there are better/stronger brand hydraulic levelers with more travel available.

Keep in-mind that hydraulic levelers have some serious weight to them. If your rig (assumed a Sprinter) is near capacity already, they may over-load it.

j-d
Explorer
Explorer
If you're talking permanently mounted power (probably hydraulic) jacks, I think the most important feature to get is "direct acting" as opposed to "kick down."

We've had two Class C's we bought used, and both had HWK kick down jacks. The biggest problem, and we had it repeatedly, was one or more jacks would extend before it kicked to vertical.

The first Class C had an individual control lever for each jack. Manufacturers went away from that setup, because it's too easy to deploy jacks in a way that racks the frame and coach body. Being aware of that, I used them carefully and it really helped me to work with a jack that wouldn't "kick."

The C we have now, has a panel with lights to tell which side or end is low. You push a button that always deploys two jacks. Both Fronts, Both Rears, Left Front and Left Rear to make Left Side, Right Front and Right Rear to make up Right side. That setup would be OK, IF the Jacks would always "kick" to vertical. Since ours don't, it's a PITA.

Jacks can be nice, but I usually use Drew's system with Carpenter's Level and Two-By lumber.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB