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Aluminum vs Fiberglass TT

Kyedog
Explorer
Explorer
I am in the market for a new TT. I have gone to RV show and several dealers. I have found a TT that I really like but it is aluminum. My current trailer is fiberglass. I am wondering what the quality difference is between fiberglass vs aluminum. The most obvious is that the aluminum can dent but what else. The pricing on the aluminum trailers are cheaper so logic tells me the quality is inferior to fiberglass. I do not want to make a mistake buying this trailer. I am planing on living in it for half the year and hopefully for the next 10 years. I generally travel 6 to 8 thousand miles a year..
39 REPLIES 39

Community Alumni
Not applicable
Which is one of the reasons why I said "usually". There are some cases where installation issues at the factory can cause delamination on a new trailer. If these issues are spotted then they can be fixed under the warranty period. However, from my experience, its more common for delamination to occur after several years of service. The more common root cause for the delamination is some form of water intrusion which allows the substrate to rot.

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
proxim2020 wrote:
delamination isn't something that happens serendipitously. It's usually the result of a problem that has been long ignored;


I don't know if I agree with that. I've seen several different makes of brand new laminated wall campers on the lot with delamination. Brand new and waiting on the lot for a very short time and delamination already happening.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
Either type of wall will provide you plenty of years of service. While each have pluses and minuses relative to each other, neither wall type is really ultimately better than the other. Really it just boils down to personal preference.

For fiberglass trailers, delamination isn't something that happens serendipitously. It's usually the result of a problem that has been long ignored; for example, a roof or window leak. The same type of problems will cause rot in the structure of aluminum sided trailers. While delamination can occur, it's not a rampant problem in modern trailers. Along with travel trailer, lots of 5th wheels, Class A's, and Class C's are all fiberglass sided.

If maintained properly then either type of trailer will provide years of problem free service. Being proactive with keeping the trailer weatherproofed will help prevent tons of problems down the road. As with any RV, if you neglect the maintenance then it will eventually fall apart.

Vintage465
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think I've read each post and what I haven't read is the structural durability that you get when you purchase a vacuum bonded aluminum/fiberglass coach. Because sheer(shear?)strength is compromised with a slide, I think this becomes very important factor when purchasing a coach with a slide. And even more so with a longer coach and multiple slides. A coach that is stick framed with a slide will not be nearly as strong or durable as a vacuum bonded aluminum/fiberglass wall. I would say that the vacuum bonded aluminum/fiberglass wall becomes exponentially stronger with brands from Northwoods and Outdoors RV because they actually use a 2" aluminum tubing when many manufacturers use 1-1/2". And.......everything everyone is saying true about repairs and maintenance. De-lamination would be a nightmare that I've not experienced and hope not too. But I have dealt with stick framed trailers sagging from one end to the other over time. For now, I'm really happy with my aluminum/fiberglass coach. I constantly monitor the roof, keep the coach covered and hope the de-lam gremlins don't gain access to my baby!
V-465
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Trailering_Texa
Explorer
Explorer
Oh, this is like asking if Ford or Chevy is better. Each have their fans. We went with aluminum and spend about half the year in it. Don't believe the folks that say you need a special kind of rig to full time. Floor plan is the main point for me. Does it have the space you need for months on end? Is the bath easy to move around in? I love my walk in shower, never want one of those tub/shower deals again. Does the kitchen have enough storage space. Can you see the TV comfortably from your couch? If your spouse goes to bed before you, can you close a door and give them some privacy? Those are the things that make living nice. The roof will last those 10 years on most decent units. Then you will have to maintain the rest, just like on any home. Good luck.

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
The shell TTs are unique and generally receive good reviews. The same can be said for the Airstream's tube shaped. Also, cost becomes a factor.

However, I believe the discussion centers around composites and stick and tin. Aka. fiberglass vs. Aluminum.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

hvac
Explorer
Explorer
I guess we doubled down on Aluminium with our ATC 28 front bedroom. I mean top to bottom. So time will tell. So far the most trouble free rv ever.

bakerkids
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up wrote:
.

BTW, fiberglass trailer are Olivers, Scamps, Casitas, not the Glued together Styrofoam/aluminum stud/Luan laminated campers you reference.



This is what threw me when I opened this thread. I call those molded fiberglass, which IMO are a much better build and what I was hoping to read about. Horse of a different color.

I have a T@B, which is albufiber. I love the skin. She's 11 years old and looks new.
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TurnThePage
Explorer
Explorer
Residential homes are made of wood and often last over a hundred years. Just sayin'. Some of the best trailers have wood trusses. As with anything you own, if you don't take care of it, it might not last long. There's nothing inherently wrong with rubber roofs either, except that they may be more prone to punctures or rips. They're easy to repair if that happens. This particular subject usually boils down to manufacturing quality, not materials. There's plenty of threads around here to prove that those with no wood or rubber suffer show stopping leaks too.

The unfortunate reality is, as an owner you better expect to be doing inspections and preventive maintenance from day one. (Unless your favorite floorplan fits in one of those few trailers that don't have any wood or rubber, which totally eliminates the corrugated aluminum sided units)
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HappyCampers3
Explorer
Explorer
Just completed our 13th season with the TT in our profile. All Aluminum skin and frame it has been very good to us. Even though HR is no longer around they made a good unit and we had very good support from our dealer.
Three Happy Campers
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Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
I think more important that the siding material is the roof, no rubber, and no wooden studding. do a search of this forum for horror pictures of wooden framed units that have had leaking problems. a total disaster. only if it is constructed properly should you be worrying about floor plan.

bumpy

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
If the OP is really concerned about aluminum vs fiberglass, rent one of each for a week or so. Then you will know the difference in noise, vibration and all the other quirks people seem to like or dislike.

My only concerns are dents vs. delaminations.

Fancy artwork and sculpted designs vs. traditional styling is of little concern to me.

Remember, the floor plan is everything, it remains when all else is forgotten. The DW usually calls the shots on that one.

Renting gives you a chance to evaluate a TT before you spend the big bucks.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
Durb wrote:
The siding reacted (or rubbed) with the staples underneath and created a bunch of pin holes in the siding.


I've had this happen in a few spots. It's really easy to fix and a none issue. Just like anything, you have to keep up with maintenance, if you ignore it, like your neighbor as it's very easy to spot, you will get holes. If the corrosion continues after you repair it once, pull the siding back and pull the staple.

Or if you do get a small hole, it's an easy fix as well with the right caulking and/or paint to make it blend in without notice. I've seen this done several time on pop up camper roofs.

I had my dealer fix this when I was having the camper pressure leak tested and re-caulked.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
I've been going back and forth with this question myself. I tend to be an aesthetics first person but don't want to make the wrong choice on this.
2006 E350 V10
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